altoncustomtech

16cuft isn't enough for almost any 18 in a quantity of 4. That's only 4cuft per sub. That's ideal for most 15's however so if I was you that's how I'd go, that or two real good 18's.

Yikes, that's alot of subwoofer. I like it!

That's impossible. Thats like having both your right hand and left hand on your left arm.

I'm about 2.5hrs from you, but I have an O-scope and true rms meters, clamps you're welcome to use if you're ever traveling this way. That goes for anyone on the forum, if you're ever around and need some test equipment, just let me know.

Both coils are good, there's something else going on, has to be. Don't have a cam on ur cell? It wouldn't take much to get a couple of pics up, but I'm POSITIVE you have a coil out of phase from the other.

Great, Thanks!

Jacob, what is the displacement of the SA-8's, I'm guessing less than .15cuft?

WOW, that thing is extremely sexy.

Thank you again, I figured you were busy. Was just wanting to make sure, you've got an email coming.

Hey Sundownz, I placed an order with you Saturday, did you recieve the emails?

That's too cool. I've not seen an IB setup like that in a LONG time.

Just thought I'd chime in here for anyone reading; He's looking for the optimal orientation of the sub and ports for this particular vehicle. We've come up with a ported enclosure design: 2.4cuft net, 2.85cuft after subwoofer, port and bracing displacements, 14"H x 17"W x 27" long with two 3" ports 12 1/4" long tuning to 32hz, design given using 3/4" MDF with a single baffle. If anyone with experience with these trucks has an idea as to the optimum orientation of the sub and ports, or a more optimal design for the enclosure for this vehicle, it will get him going on his rebuild.

You generally want at least 1 diameter of vent distance between the vent and any object. So using 3" ports you'll need about 3" between them and any seat or wall in the cab. I would actually recommend starting another thread, you'll get more attention to the inquiry that way.

Now that bit of info there you'll need from someone with experience with those trucks. I see a lot of guys doing sub up-port up but exactly what's best could be answered the best by some of the guys who's familiar with them.

The enclosure design I gave you in post #11 is the OPTIMAL enclosure size for the 10" SSD's, it's the exact same size I was going to use in my Jimmy before I changed my mind and ordered Sundown SA-8's instead of Fi's 10" SSD's. They should sound just about their best in that alignment.

Simply by the difference in enclosures you'll notice a difference. I personally like the sound of ported enclosures over sealed. A properly designed and built ported enclosure can sound just as tight as a sealed (<--this is arguable by MANY people, I tend to agree with this statement myself) yet offer lower bass extension and is overall more efficient than a sealed enclosure above the tuning frequency. So, a properly designed and built ported enclosure can get deeper and louder than a sealed, generally speaking. There are ALWAYS variables that can change that, ALWAYS. In general, however, that's the difference in the most basic terms.

I ran a few numbers, for an optimal sized ported box tuned to 32hz you'll eat up most all the room you have. I pulled up a 14"H x 17"W x 27" L, 2.4cuft net enclosure, 2.85cuft gross with driver, port and bracing displacement. Two 3" ports 12 1/4" long will tune it to 32hz and those dimension are building it with 3/4" MDF and a single baffle.

It's not working because one coil is out of phase from the other, I'm pretty sure of it. Try swapping the terminals on one side when you hook it up in series. Even if they're out of phase it will still read 2ohms, it's just that they'll cancel eachother out and not make any sound.

I didn't use an isolator in the van. As long as all the batteries are the same type and you're starting it, driving and charging the vehicle on a regular basis most people don't have problems simply running the batteries in parallel. So if it's your daily driver then you shouldn't have any issues. Perhaps some of these guys with more experience running miltiple batteries can elaborate some more though, as my experience thus far is limited in this area.

I see this type of reply from ALOT of new people on this forum. I think M5 simply tells people how it is with no fluff and it's usually not what they want to hear and they think he's being an ass about it. Plus I'm sure he gets tired of the newbs who post the ridiculous "Think this will go boom like so?" posts and questions that could be answered with a simple search too and I can see where he can get a little edgey about it sometimes. Besides where did he ever refer to you as a douche? Not in this thread anyway, so why dump in the OP's thread about it? Now, to the OP, If you already own Fi then I wouldn't think about changing anything if I was you. However, if you've bought the amp and are looking for subs to go along with it, purchase the ones that meet the goals the best for the sound you're looking for and the budget you have to spend on them. DC makes some fantastic subwoofers, there's countless threads on both brands about the build quality, sound, and SPL from their subs. You really can't go wrong with either as long as you're buying it to fit the purpose and goal.

Send an email to the address on the webpage with your zip code. If they have a dealer close to you they'll send you the information to get in contact with them. If not, they may consider selling directly to you.

I'd just go with my gut if I was you. If you're already leaning toward one then go for that one.

My first was in my 1970 Chevy long bed truck. Had a pair of 12" Thump subwoofers in a 5cuft ported enclosure in the bed of the truck because the gas tank is behind the seat in those trucks. They were powered by two Profile A200XL's bridged on each sub. They were powered by an US Amps A50HC competition amp that a gave me for repairing his HU, but I couldn't use it because it ran the battery down while driving . So I traded a guy for the two Profiles and once I learned what that amp really was I could've kicked myself hard. Had a Pioneer cassette deck running it with Audiovox 6x9's in the wedge boxes under the front of the seats because it was the only place to put them, and some cheap tweeters from the walmart mounted on the dash.

It's a fairly decent general rule to run 100Ah for each 1000watts of power. There's a few simple calculations that can be done to get a good read on exactly what you need to run a given number of watts of power and that rule usually gets right in the ball park. For example, the SAZ series amps are all around 86% efficient at 4 ohms, something like 72% at 1 ohm I think I read on here somewhere. That means it takes about 4,860 watts of INPUT power to run the amp to its full potential at 1 ohm. (equation is Watts/efficiency or 3500/.72=4861) The reason the input wattage is higher than the output wattage is because the amp has given losses that result in most of the heat the amp gives off. Now if you use ohms law it shows that at an average 13.5v (allowing a little voltage drop) it will take a total of 360 amps of current to supply the amp with the power it needs to produce 3500 watts at 13.5v at 1 ohm nominal load. This is all with general and given numbers, everything changes with fluctuating voltages and impedence rise and other variables. Sorry, forgot to add that a 100Ah battery adds about 1,245 watts of available power to the electrical system. So 3 equals 3,735 watts plus the output of a HO alt would be just about enough to run the amp correctly at full tilt. One should also remember that with music, the load is dynamic or always changing with the peaks and lulls so it will very seldom require the full amount of power at all times. Also, sorry to the OP for the thread jack but I figured it was good to explain the effects of loads on electrical requirements - back to the thread.

First of all the battery and alternator testers at the auto parts stores aren't always accurate. It sounds like you may be having issues with your grounds though. That's a very common issue with a bad ground. I would also recommend upgrading that power wire to a 1/0 in the near future. Generally you really don't want to run any more than 1000wrms on 4 guage wire and if you have fairly inefficient amps (which I've heard both of those are on the inefficient side, but not seen any clamp tests to prove it). Another thing to do would be to disconnect your battery some night, test the voltage when you disconnect it and then test it again in the morning. It shouldn't fall to less than 12.x volts, somewhere in the 12v range. If it falls down below the 12v mark then the battery is going bad on you. It's a decent way to test the battery's condition. I hope that maybe these suggestions may help you out, and I'm sure there will be many more suggestions from others as well. Good Luck and let us know what you find to be the culprit(s).