altoncustomtech

Thanks brother! It will really get to looking yummy when the paint is all done and even. (looks a little crappy right now, lol)

Alright, another update. Got some painting done today. I'm painting the inside of the enclosure to match the color of the Jimmy. I got the hole recessed and drilled for the speakon connector to sit flush like the sub/pr's too. First coat of color inside. Second coat of color inside. That's it for today!

My daily driver is completely done with SDS. Outstanding product. Didn't you used to have a link to that installation build in your signature?

Like the rest of the hobby, you get what you pay for but how it's used determines much more than what is being used. With Sound deadening there's WAY more to it than just slapping some Dynamat, SecondSkin, or whatever name brand you're familiar with on and being done with it. The hard part is figuring out exactly what needs treated and how far you want to go. If you only have some minor rattles and such a little bit of CLD tiles (Dynamat, Damplifier, etc.) and some CCF (closed cell foam) can make a big difference for you. If you're wanting to have the quietest ride you can with minimal road noise and no squeaks or rattles you'll have much more work and money involved as you'll need the CLD, CCF and MLV (mass loaded vinyl) to achieve that goal. If you're having problems with lackluster midbass response you'll want to build custom baffles to mount your speakers to along with a full treatment of the above mentioned products on your doors (or wherever the speakers are mounted in any case) to get much improved response. One of the best websites and products there are for sound deadening and information on what the products are, do, how they work and how to properly apply them visit Sound Deadener Showdown (SDS). You'll not find a more knowledgeable person on deadening products and their use, nor a more honest business man, who will only sell you as much product as you truly need to achieve the goal you want. If SDS, Dynamat or Second Skin are out of your price range you can visit Raam Audio for their products. They don't sell MLV but they do have CLD (called BXT II) and CCF that are fairly decent products for the budget minded price. As for the amount to use. Typically 25% coverage is all that's necessary for the CLD tiles. As for the CCF and MLV, typically 100% coverage is necessary for them to work as they're intended to do.

Thank you brother!! Thanks, slowly but surely. Thank you.

Another small update. Got the first coat of primer on today. Almost forgot to drill the hole for the speakon connector. Will do that tomorrow along with another coat of primer! That's it for today.

to the forum! Gotta love the Q's!!

to the forum!

Thanks man. If things stay slowed down like they are now it could very well be done in the next couple of weeks.

Yep it's Baltic Birch. I plan on covering it with bed liner after I paint the inside to match the paint on the truck. As for what's going in it, a single 10" XCON with a pair of 10" XCON matching passive radiators. No need to put more time into thinking about what else to do with it, I've over thought it already, lol. Pretty much all the rest of the build is already done. The only other thing there is to do after the enclosure is done is to install the Focal Solid 2 amp I bought for the tweeters to go active with the Clarion CZ702 doing the processing for the Bravox components. I've already done some testing and found the passive crossovers that came with them are causing issues. So I'm taking them active per Brad and Sean's recommendations.

Wow, I can't believe I've not been able to update this since before my birthday. I knew my opportunities to work on the enclosure have been slim but I didn't realize until I pulled this up just how long it's been. So, since my last update the engine got ruined by water. I ordered and recently received a Marshall reman engine and I'm working on getting the rest of the parts I need along with engine stand and hoist to get the old one pulled and the new one dropped in. As for the enclosure I had the opportunity to put a little body filler on the screws over the last month. Got some put on and sanded down prior to today but I got all that finished today. Now it's time to apply the primer. Here's a few pics of the body filler process. I'll get more up as the primer is applied.

Baskets I know and understand, but powder coating the cone? I can't imagine a paper cone surviving the baking process for powder coating, unless there's another process I'm unaware of. (very likely the case)

First off, it's extremely difficult to read your post. I get it, but forming regular sentences would be helpful. With that out of the way, there's no way we can recommend what EQ and crossover settings to use. EVERY install is different, every speaker, every location it's mounted, every vehicles interior, etc. all play a part in the response of the speakers and therefore changes the need to cut or boost a frequency on the EQ or crossover at a given frequency all completely different from one setup to the next. You've got some nice equipment there, and one helpful item is that DLS states the crossover point for the passive crossover as 4500hz. That would be the point to begin for the low pass crossover for the front mids and the high pass crossover for the tweeters. After that, it's going to take a lot of time listening, tweaking, tuning and listening some more before tweaking and tuning again to get everything set right. Unfortunately there's no rule book that says if you have "X" tweeter and "Y" mid in "Z" mounting location use "A" crossover setting and "B" EQ settings. It just isn't that easy.

The box and build came out great! Nice attention to the details, and as stated above, the car is beautiful! I think you'll really love that sub once you get more playtime on it. Glad to hear you've got more output than before, I know that was a concern when you were first looking at it and having to go sealed.

^^^ Exactly. "Sound good" is too relative a term to give any kind of real answer. How good it sounds to you, me, or anyone else will have more to do with HOW it's installed than the equipment being used. Sound deadening, reinforcement of the mounting locations, aiming, crossover settings, EQ adjustments, time alignment and much more will have far more to do with the final outcome. Those details are the ones that will make or break how good it sounds no matter what speakers, amps and subs you're using. From an outside looking in standpoint, the equipment you've listed has the potential to sound fairly good to most people. However, if you just take it and slap it in the respective factory locations you're not going to be using any of the speakers to their possible potential at all.

I would highly suggest looking elsewhere before considering SKAR. As for the DCON, you're going to be hard pressed to find another sub that performs as well for the money. While it's okay to run a little extra power in most cases I don't think double the RMS is recommendable. The amp is rated at 400wrms @ 4 ohms. Why not order a 4 ohm SVC DCON and then in the future if you decide to go with two you'll still have that capability. You don't need to throw full RMS or more at one in order to get everything it can offer and that goes for any sub. The most important thing to consider and spend your time, effort and money on is making certain the enclosure is as close to perfect as possible.

Posting a quick topic on a positive transaction experience with this member. He contacted me back in April for my phone number to talk about the 18" SSD of my little brothers that he was interested in. I gave him my # and we talked many times over the last couple months about that sub, other subs, setups, etc. He's a good guy who's really wanting to learn and get into this hobby with a passion. I sold the SSD to another person but continued to talk to him about his setup, other possible sub choices and things of that nature until he texted this past weekend asking if I still had the 15" ICON that I had bought from Sean. I told him I did, gave him the details and the price I'd take for it. I'm glad to say he showed up yesterday with cash in hand and the ICON has a nice new home in the back of his Pathfinder! Now all he needs is a nice amp to run it with.

The only thing I question is the quick disconnects. Working in the industrial world I work with lots of relays, motor contactors, motor control centers, etc. and I don't think you'd have an issue if the rating wasn't being exceeded much or for very long. If you want to keep your large gauge wiring and have something that's guaranteed to handle the current with no problem look into a small contactor style relay. It will have set screw terminals and they can be found with 12v coils in them. The only problem is they're not cheap, but then again, if you wanna play ya gotta pay right? Lemme look around at what's available in the industrial world and I'll post back up here with some options.

He said the Mosconi processor had T/A. im going off of how he described the way its sounds.. he stated that he could hear the music coming from left and the right and he looked left when he said it then he looked right... correct me if i am wrong but it was being time aligned then he would have been looking at the middle of the dash or some where near the center of the windshield He was probably trying to describe the imaging, where the singer appears to be in one spot, the guitarist in another, and so on. Either way no one can tell anything about how it sounds by watching a Youtube video. I disagree. I say that you can tell it sounds like every other stereo in a YouTube video. LOL

Then you can only wire it to 1 ohm (parallel) or 4 ohms (series). I'd just wire it to 1 and be done.

Just read through the entire thread. You've been busy, lol. Keep up the work dude. It's coming along great.

A little update to this thread. Even though the Jimmy is out of commission at the moment I'm still not neglecting the audio in it. I went ahead and picked up a Focal Solid 2 for the tweeters and an 8 awg kit from Knu to wire it with. It's WAY more amp than they need but without going with a questionable quality (for the frequencies it will be playing) Class D that was uber small this thing should fit the bill. It's really tiny for what it is and I don't think I'll have any great problem hiding it up front somewhere. I can't wait to give my first REAL active setup a try! Not a bad looking little amp.

Sounds like a fun little build. If had came into some money, looking at free range and budget, I wouldn't worry one little bit about hacking anything up. Then again, if I was that worried about it I would go to the pull a part yard and grab the appropriate panels out of another truck to hack up.

Gotta love routers, router tables, flush trim bits and rabbeting bits! Keep up the good work!

I agree. A more agressive tire does really set off the look of these trucks. I really like the Goodyear Duratrac's and would recommend them to anyone. While technically an all terrain tire, they're plenty aggressive when it comes to mud, snow, etc but behave very well in the rest of the conditions, ride really good and have to be the quietest damn tires with that much tread I've ever experienced. They also wear fairly well too. I put 55,000 miles on the first set I put on my '07 Chevy 2500HD work truck. I like them so much I put another set on it and put a set on the Jimmy. Sadly I'll never get to see how many miles I would get out of the second set, they replaced that truck this year with a '13 Ford F-250 Super Duty that has 17" rims, so I can't even transfer them to this truck. It doesn't matter though, I know exactly what's going on it as soon as the factory tires wear out. The truck is looking good so far Mark. I'm certain the build will be beastly, in an Evil way.