altoncustomtech

Sucks to hear about the ID's failing on you. Some of those Cadence components have been on my radar for a long time, I've just not had the opportunity to be able to purchase any. If you end up giving them a try I'd sure love to hear your opinion on how they perform. Hope someone else can more help than I am, lol.

Things are lookin' great!!

Some more updates. I got the CAI and PCMforless tuned PCM installed today, I'll have pictures of that up tomorrow. The 250A Singer alternator came today and looks fantastic, except for one thing. The charging stud on the rear of the alt is a bit hinky. It looks like a 1/2" brass threaded rod was drilled and center tapped and threaded into/onto the regular stud to make a larger base to attach to. While that's not necessarily a bad idea it wasn't machined particularly well and due to it's size it doesn't leave anything for the ring terminal to tighten against. I put a second nut on it so that there's something to tighten to, but it still didn't seem to be the best thought out process. I've got a few quick pictures before I left work today, the UPS driver showed up late so I didn't get to do much else with it. I'll be installing it, the Intimidator battery and BIG 3 tomorrow. Onto the pics: Pulling it out of the box. Isn't that pulley cover beautiful? Very nice looking alternator overall. You can kind of see the nut at back side there, wish I would have thought to get a better picture. I will for sure tomorrow.

Nice!

^^^^ That's very true, it's generally my favorite way to do installations. THESE are a great way to go for a quick disconnect! Here's an example of where I used them in my own build:

I agree with the recommendations above. It will be pretty hard to beat the quality and performance the DCON can offer you at it's price range. The DCON in a proper built to spec ported enclosure is quite amazing to listen to. I wrote a REVIEW of the one I got for my sister. It played everything I threw at it wish finesse, precision, and much gusto as it was called upon. The only problem I ever heard was some strain from the amplifier and with your BA amp that should not be any issue like it was for her.

Just ordered FOUR!! Two in purple to make the wife and daughter happy!

^^^^ Exactly! I love builds that do both extremely well. Functional for the family, yet still able to turn heads. Not an easy task, I know, but so lovely when well executed.

As was stated above, more information is needed to give you a better answer. For the little bit you did give, on a $500 budget I would suggest my old, often mentioned standby, a pair of 10" DCON's and something like an AQ750 to power them with. I got this combo fairly quick: 2x 10" SSA DCON S4 $115 Ea. Audiopipe APSM1300 $115 DC Creations custom build 2.5cuft ported enclosure $160 KnuKonceptz CCA 4AWG wiring kit $27 That's a quick and dirty $532 total. More info would be greatly appreciated to better understand your intentions for the system and provide a better suited set of suggestions.

Well, they're on the other side of the world, maybe it's right side up over there?

Thanx Bro!! Agreed. Did you make the speaker mounting pieces out of abs plastic, or bought somewhere? Looks like a really good idea. I absolutely love the look of the 10" xcons, with such a huge motor. Makes me want to sell the 18" and get a 10", which makes no sense. Nope, they're made out of MDF and finished in bed liner. The build process on them is earlier in the log. I agree, they look meaner than sin. Can't wait to get the box built and see the look on peoples faces when they see it's sweet ass through the plexi. Then the confusion that follows when they don't see anything on the PR's that will look exactly the same from the outside, trying to figure out what the hells goin on in there, LOL.

Wow, I'm not much help today am I? LOL, I like pm's idea of following the switch diagram. Might try it that way first with the ground disconnected so if it's not right you don't waste fuses. I do know that if you're not worried about the light the ground doesn't HAVE to be connected for the switch to act as a switch. So if you try it on a couple of combinations of terminals you should be able to at least switch the HU on and off, once you've got that you can toss the ground on the remaining terminal if you want the LED to light. I'm still real sure that on the first way you had it connected the battery was actually on the ground terminal of the switch which is why the light would light but the HU wouldn't come on, try wiring the wires to the terminals opposite to that, I bet it may work then.

BTW, after looking at this thread the X line is indeed off the website. Are they being discontinued, again?

LOL..... nice.... damn chinese manufacturers........ I seem to remember them being pos, load, neg...... one way or the other.... Anyway, you said that with the battery and HU wired without the ground that you got the light, but no HU. I think the battery was connected to the neg, the HU was on the pos and load, and it was droppin the voltage across the LED.

The ground is a ground, it's only purpose in life is to ground the light so it can illuminate. Power from the battery goes to the input terminal, power to the HU goes to the other. Sounds to me like you had it wired right, or at least close to it, the first time. Not sure how much help I can be other than that. You're close, oh so close, lol. I can't remember off the top of my head what the terminals are labeled, but I used to have about 6 or 8 of them in my '70 Chevy. ^^^ Yeah, what he said.

Thank you sir!! I agree! I use the same batteries just with a carquest sticker on. Thanx! I've not found anywhere around here that sells the rebadged Deka's. No Carquest stores nearby either. No biggie tho, ya gotta pay to play.

Oh don't you know it! Yep, makes ur mouth water don't it? Okay, so got a little work done this weekend. After visiting the ER with a 103.8 degree fever Wednesday it took me a few days to recover, missed three days of work, and between cold chills, sweats, naps, and the always fun intake/exhaust gastrointestinal evacuations that always seem to accompany getting that sick I felt good enough to do a little work on the Jimmy Sunday. The problem with getting that sick is that it takes awhile to get back to 100% capacity so after I got the driver's door done yesterday I just didn't have it in me to dig into the passenger door. However, I think I chronicled the drivers door fairly well. Onto the pictures: The before shot. The door as it was before I began with the PG RSD components installed. The mid mounted in the flimsy factory plastic baffles and the factory grille removed. The door card removed. I forgot to chronicle the installation of the CCF on the doors, but as you can see here the healthy helping of CCF has things well covered. I didn't put any over the window motor so that it can be changed/removed a bit easier in the future. Also if you notice the wire going to the tweeter I did a quick and dirty install of the PG's and never put any sort of disconnect on the wires which has been a bane of working on this thing without tearing the wires out of the back of the tweeter. That will be addressed and fixed during this stage of installation as well. The PG mid removed, bye bye crappy, flimsy factory plastic. Now you see it. Now you don't Ah, the Bravox CS60K's that will be replacing the PG's. Beautiful set and well built. The tweeter is mounted in the tweeter cup from an Alpine Type R set. Got them from my bro Jared (j-roadtatts) to help the Bravox tweets fit the gaping hole that the PG tweets required even though they're both 1" dome tweets. If you look closely you can see the dab of hot glue I put on the back of the tweeter to help hold the wires. I've had tweeters like this with wires torn out cuz of how they attach and have almost no support. Doing this just helps ensure they don't do that easily. PG tweet out, notice how large that freaking hole is. Just crazy! Bravox tweet is in! Now, I mentioned earlier I wanted to make it easier to remove the door panels without tearing up tweeter wires. I picked up these simple molex connectors from RadioShack. Got the male connector on. Also, notice the CCF on the door card itself. I placed it over the location where the opening remains at the window motor and mechanism to continue to help block noises and rattles at that location too. The female end of the molex connector installed. Now onto the meat of it. I've applied some CCF speaker gasket tape around the opening of the door for a couple of reasons. One, it's just another way to help decouple the baffle from the door. Two it will help seal it, obviously. Third it gives the baffle a little "wiggle" room by tightening and loosening the bolts around the baffle it allows for just a tad of adjustment. Got the baffle bolted up. Turned the one bolt around so it wouldn't interfere with the window travel. Here's the Bravox mid mounted to the baffle. As always I have speaker gasket tape on it too. Damn does it look good in there! Another quick shot of the door card. The new tweeter connector all connected up. Viola! Completed, er, well for this door anyway. Well, that's that for now. I'm on call at work all this week so I won't be getting much done on the Jimmy with it parked at work. Hopefully the Singer 250A will be in before the end of the week and I can get it and the rest of the goodies that came in last week while I was sick installed while I'm on vacation next week! WOOHOO for kids spring break!! New XS Power XP950 battery for the rear of the Jimmy and a 34/78 Intimidator for under the hood. K&N Cold Air Intake for the Jimmy, The "Piece de resistance" PCMforless performance tuned PCM Thanx for lookin' guys!

to the forum!!

There's about a million websites out there with sample circuit diagrams for 555 timer based timing circuits, just a little searching is all it will take.

Well, I know you've all seen sub unboxings before and at the risk of being a complete and total bore I'll show the unboxing of the 10" XCON anyway. Mainly because I know how much you guys love sub porn!! First impressions are that this thing has a nearly inexplicably large motor, lol. Not really but the size of it makes removing it from the shipping box without destroying said box nearly impossible. I seriously wonder how the hell they pack them without tearing up the box. Of course the build quality is second to none. Everything is perfectly lined up, no excess glue, just perfection. I can't wait to hand this to a couple of good friends and see the looks on their faces!! Did I mention the motor on this thing is massive? Huge? I loved seeing the number of tinsel leads on this thing. Much like my Q's there's more than enough tinsel lead there to handle all the power this thing can take. Well, those are my first thoughts. I'm quite possitive I'm going to love the new setup I'm looking at doing. I'm really looking forward to getting the PR's in and getting this bish completed finally!!

Can't wait to see the four 15's done bro, poor car is just killer.

If you're even a little savvy with electronics you can build your own timer using a 555 timer chip or two and some resistors to trigger some little relays. Very simple to use. You could get a little breadboard, the 555 timers and stuff you need from Parts Express.

Being printed as you type?!?!?!?!? What's the ETA on these?? I need to order at LEAST one of each color, probably looking at two of each though....

to the forum!

Happy Birthday my friend!