mbarber25

what they said. it seems that lately when people ask this question, everybody just disagrees. so good luck. but again, either second skin or check out that sound deadener showdown link.

car sounds amazing. looks it too

welcome!

a larger driver than the N.S v2 gives me butterflies lol

sorry to hear that man :/

garmin 1300 for me. has a nice 4.3" screen. and has really good functionality I found it for a really nice price on amazon. I think almost $100 less than what it orignally cost

with the big 3 done in 1/0 and an extra battery in the back. you should be fine. maybe replacing the starter battery as well

always good work

there's a big show in Vegas that he's at. and didn't want to do a lot of demos for youtube before it.

i'd go with either a Fi BL or a SSA Xcon. a 15" since an 18" would be a hassle and a half. or you could get a 10" or a 12" whatever you want obviously you could go with either amp. but i suggest the SAZ-1000D. (cheaper and less electrical upgrades will be necessary. but if you want head room to add another sub or something etc. you could go with the 1500 as well) but there are also other great subs out there. plenty of options. next for me would be a Sundown woofer. this response is pretty biased lol but oh well.

what do you mean when you say speakers on axis?

it'd be cool if Fi realeased a version of this woofer. a version with options would be very nice. sounds like a good idea to me

love my movie channels, love discovery sports sometimes and sorta dislike mtv but will admit to watching Jersey Shore lol

no problem..... any other questions feel free to ask

set your subsonic for about 27hz or 28hz as for the LPF most people say to put it at around 80hz. but mine isn't. i just played with it until it sounded right. so you could try that way as well

the Q is based for toward sound quality.. Q for sound 'q'uality. the BL is based more towards SPL.

lookin good

new store is even more sexy

just like Duran said. your battery now isn't made for a sound system so you should just keep that one as the starter battery and add a deep cycle in the back.

But what if his amp is stable at 1 ohm? Then he could get D2 and wire it to 1 ohm. Right? JL amps are only stable at 1.5 ohms - 4 ohms Hmm. Didn't know that. yea it's different I guess. I ran a JL amp a couple months ago and it was wired to 1ohm and whenever the impedance would drop too far or whatever it'd just go into protect.

But what if his amp is stable at 1 ohm? Then he could get D2 and wire it to 1 ohm. Right? JL amps are only stable at 1.5 ohms - 4 ohms

updates on the mirror, or competitions? For competitions, the NESPL classes and rules for 2010 are all set now, everything is on the website. We have one date set, it's going to be a TNESPL 3X event, not our NESPL format. haha nah not the mirror.. i meant competitions and your blazer but that's good. i'm excited a.2 here i come... unless i make changes oh and where and when is the one that is already set?

ok well the big 3 are three different main electrical wires under the hood of your car. and they go: -battery negative to chassis (ground) -battery positive to alternator -engine block to chassis (ground) upgrading these wires to 1/0 helps the flow of electricity throughout your cars charging system. the thicker the wire... the better the flow

never go off of an amp's "peak" power. never ever.

capacitors really don't help voltage at all.. but that's a whole nother discussion but what do u mean 720 rms subs? and (800 rms amp) subs dont make power. only take it ---> from the amp. and yes do what jay-cee said and do the big 3... you HAVE to no matter what since you're going to be running 2,000 watts