CrazyKenKid

as long as the terminals on the battery aren't touching the amp you will be okay! can you take a pic of this setup maybe someone will see something else!!

personally I would tell her to do a return and just pick up a kinetik hc 800 or something along those lines! or batcap 2000! lol although it is most likely to late to get a refund..but for sure keep us posted on the situation! can you tell us more about the setup? like how much power she is using? and alternator specs?

i am not going to lie but I have never seen one of those before. but if I was you I would give the manufacture a call and ask them if you can charge that 16v cap on 12v system! also did you happen to pop your DMM onto the front battery to see if it has 12.8v resting and 14.4v when the car is on? I hope the poor ladies alt isn't starting to die.

i am not going to lie I am not crazy about the @$$ on that sub lol!

I think you will but I an sure others will think other wise. Keeping in mind I am running 5k through my cca wire and I have not run into an issue yet

sure? where did you read that it? I just looked at the conduit and it looks like copper lol also it says this: "Cadence power and ground cables are manufactured using the highest quality copper raw materials" at any rate don't be scared of CCA wiring it is all good stuff plus this Cadence stuff is a decent price!

very cool! locked in for sure! the only suggestion I can make is use some solder on your wires, using a vise isn't that great of an idea, as I have learned first hand! sure the terminals are on there pretty tight for the first year but due to vibration and what not they like to move about! but that is my take on it! subscribed for sure!!!! keep the pics coming!

wow what is that? it has pretty colors! ;D lol

I vote you pick up the sundown 2500! I have a pair of them and their power is unparalleled in its class! lol! Personal experience I always go with sundown anything! always a smart/good buy plus you can't beat the customer service!

wow you cleaned that up a bunch man! and you did a nice job congrats! also I know what you mean about the water! my trunk had the same issue and even still if a heavy rain fall happens I get a little water in there, so I jsut drilled a small 1/8 hole in the center of my tire well that way water could escape rather then pile up lol! at any rate keep up the good work!

250 is ideal and safe! if you live on the edge go with a 300amp fuse! look at it like this on 12.8volt, 250amps = 3200 watts on 12.8volt, 300amps = 3840 watts ------- 640watt difference see what I am getting at?

cool thanks for the info!

In between batteries and fuse blocks Fuse to the wires capacity In between batteries and amps/distro block and amps fuse to rating on the amp so if there is 100amps of fusing on the amp put a 100amp fuse on that line. if there isn't fusing on the amp use ohms law! for example if you have 12.8volts and 1200watts of power that = 93amps, so put a 100amp fuse in that line! make sense?

DD, SC? what does the SC stand for? personal flare? also that looks like an intense build! subscribed for sure!

only if car audio had coupon's! wouldn't that be something! so I got a question lets say someone saves 5000$ on stuff but all this stuff has expiration dates on it... do they freeze it all? or do they resell it to friends? or do they just have really big families?

KNU KCA = CCA (copper clad aluminium) Cadence = copper KCA - 20ft = 40$ - 2/ft Cadence - 24.5ft = 50$ - 2.04/ft both cost similar I would prefer you purchased the copper wiring over the CCA wiring http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-24-5-FEET-RED-AMP-POWER-GROUND-WIRE-/300515149079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194517#ht_3207wt_1139 PLUS free shipping if you buy on the ebay store if you buy on KNU it would cost...$$ for shipping

for a 100$ I would actually purcahse this wire Blue http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-BLUE-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515149186?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194582#ht_3213wt_1101 Black http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-BLACK-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515148355?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f8194243#ht_3194wt_1101 Red http://cgi.ebay.com/CADENCE-0-GAUGE-RED-AMP-POWER-WIRE-49-FOOT-SPOOL-NEW-/300515148364?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45f819424c#ht_3175wt_1101 this stuff actually came to surprise me! it also some in 30ft increments and 7foot increments. you can also purchase welding wire from welding supplies!

don't know! here all the wires I will be testing soon. how much money do you have to spend on wiring? EFX Scosche KNU KCA KNU Kolossus Q Power Raptor Rockford Fosgate Sound Quest Stinger HPM Street Wires Tsunami XScorpion so let me know a price and I can make a recommendation to you. Tsunami was decently price I believe.

any point coming off of your alt, and connecting to your engine will be good to use. I suggest using the one I did in my pic as it is close and easy to access. although with your car that point might not be there. buss bars are more efficient plus they provide flexability on installs. but considering the link you provided is for 3 or more batteries bus bar are not essential. I know with my setup my batteries are on either side of my trunk, which is 40inch away from each other and making a bus bar that long that would work for me wouldn't be cost efficient. also rather then using a LONG bolt just use one of these they are pretty cheap on ebay or your local car audio shop. I suggest using those because you can attach your cars electrical stuff on the main piece close to the battery, then all your car audio stuff on the other end. that way if you ever need to remove the runs it is simple to do and you don't need to worry about dissconecting your cars power at the same time. and yes a long bolt also works just keep in mind the depth of the hole and try not to bottom out.

no worries man anytime!

same with mine! notice the RED is the power on my alt, and the GREEN is the negative. there is a bar off my alt that attaches to the engine it acts as a ground an a support! make sense?

Did you have to pay anything for COD or brokerage fees? How much/what did you order? I'm shopping for some wiring and am also in Canada. It'll be cheaper to drive over the border to pick it up than to purchase anywhere local =/ and I don't want to drive. edit: ignore. opened up a tab for the site and read the big banner across the top. I never get charged COD, just make sure to check out in the Canadian section brother!

Did they email it to you? because I didn't get one through paypal and it didn't show on my order status on their site.... i believe i got a processing confirmation from KNU but the shipper was from UPS.com with a tracking number.

expanding foam if you need to hold something in place

hey I forgot about this thread, sorry man! with your 125amp alt on 12.8VDC you can support a 1600watt setup. since you said you don't want to compete and you want more of a daily setup, plus you said you want to pound it at a red light and make it sound good. plus your budget is 300$ based on those goals I am going to suggest either running 2 or 4ohm load since that will yield less of a pull on your cars electrical setup. and i am not sure if you care about used amps or bnib amps but on ebay i seen this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kicker-KX800-2-amplifier-Barely-used-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem336685ed9dQQitemZ220763385245QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo#ht_500wt_1182 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290437189065&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3307wt_905 or if you want to go mono http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-08ZX750-1-/250798382165?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3a64bf9c55#ht_729wt_1139 or http://cgi.ebay.com/Kicker-KX600-1-Car-Amplifier-/170623673957?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item27b9f6a665#ht_695wt_1139 or even better you could get http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_67_69_80 or http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_67_69_108 I like the idea of the kicker 800.2 though! if i were you I would jump on that for 200$