CrazyKenKid

yes and you are welcome and awsome job on the .6 improvement!! keep it up!

like KU40 said YES you will be fine! but fast question what other equpiment do you have in your car? h/o? big 3? extra battery? beefy battery in the front? suv? lol do you have a voltage meter rather then a dumb gauge? sorrry just double checking to see if you got the electrical guts to backup the car audio! I assume you do but it doesn't hurt to ask to be safe!

And by BASS knob you mean GAIN knob right? b/c isn't a BASS knob used to BOOST a certain range of frequencies and not used to control the ampliers output?

the remote is a GAIN knob, How it works simple method (from my understanding): Lets say you set your amp to output 3krms! then you plug in yrou remote knob. if the remote is turned to the middle positon your amp is NOW outputing 1500rms (around there) the remote gain knob will work withing the original gain settings so lets say you decided to set your gain at 2krms to allow the sub to break in before tossing all 3krms at it. so in this example the remote will working within a range of 0-2krms and if you ever unplug the remote your gains will remain as they were when you set them before! understandable?

i thought that vehicle has a resonant frequency of 44hz? as for tuning once you find the resonant frequency (RE) tune the box 4-6hz lower. as for the way to find the RE of your vehicle you need a tone sweet and a sealed box and a sub! play the sweep and while using a db meter find where your car is the lowest and that is the RE of yoru car and tune respectively! enjoy

i like it!! great work keep it up!!

holy gain settings batman turn that down! lol

so the gain was set wrong? cool cats! glad you figured it out good job and like jay-cee said make sure to set the gain correctly with the dmm!! if you need some help with this send me a p/m or take a look at the forums and search for gain settings!

other then that i say check for an input and output voltage reading also check the resistance of the amp you can get a dmm at radio shake for cheap even ask a buddy if they have some. basically we are trying to narrow out the issues to see if it is a input or output issue. b/c you said it is getting power b/c the lights turn on. so on the input side if you don't get a reading (while the system is on) then there is an issue with the rca end and not the amp. if you don't get a reading on the output side of the amp (where the speak(s) hook up to) then there is an issue with the amp and further diagnostics is needed! if you get a voltage reading from both sides of the amp use the dmm in ohm mode and check the resistance of each coil of the sub! and report back!

umm dumb question here did you try to play with the gain knob?

what are you setting your lpf at? also please check the rca simple put a dmm across them and see if you get a voltage reading!

thankyou very much! short and sweet answers! just what i was looking for! thanks again!

so no output on either amp correct? so there could be an issue with the rca inputs have you looked at the rca or tested them? have you pulled out the h/u to make sure teh rca are plugged in 100% ? or maybe the wiring to the sub isn't hooked up correctly? short> broken circuit>? check the terminals (output side) of the amp and see if there any any a/c voltage output by using a dmm

sorry guys a bunch of editing was done in the last few seconds more info added and q1 was beefed up! lol as for a temp guage i was thinking of something liek this http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Auto-Car-Meter-Gauge-/370369081931?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item563bb7b24b or http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-Gauge-C-PC-MOD-/150436243736?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2306b2e918

Hey guys I have some fast questions to ask!! 1. Lets say I used 8 gauge from amp to sub box terminals, then 2-12gauge runs from terminals to subs(yes 2 subs)? What I want to do is run 8awg from the amp to the terminals then from there 2 runs of 12gauge, 1 run per sub. I think this will work b/c 8awg can support 75amps and 12gauge can support 40amps (since 2 runs40x2=80amps) since there is 2 runs which will be hooked in parellel and in parellel we know current divides up I should be okay? but wait in parrel each run will see the same voltage of... o well input is needed here lol! the currnet which the 8gauge will see will be a peak of 50amps. I ask b/c i have a ton of 12gauge and 8awg but no 10gauge. i assume buying 10gauge is the best idea here 55amps 2. I want to put 2-saz2000's(or 2-2500) in my spare tire well with the sub box on top of the amps and using fans to push the hot air out of the closed up tire well. my question is SHOULD i get a temperature gauge to watch the temp in there? and also i will need to know the amp operating temp and what temp that the protection will kick in at. or is this a useless idea? also more info: 2-saz2000(or 2500) 2-ns 15inch v1 subs 2-nsb 90 (batteries) 1-h/o 200amps big 3 grand am 95 trunk sound deadened with a false floor and all sealed with seam sealer birch was used for the whole build build log will be start on monday..ish duel 15's tuned to 40hz box dim 36wX30lX17.5h (4th order i believe it is) potential power 4-5krms my system will be a 2ohm setup both saz amps will be strapped if you need any more info or clairity please let me know

maybe get 2-dmm's so you can measure both current and impedance or voltage at the same time that way you can find the output of the amp(s) I did this back in the day it was pretty fun. i tested an 1000rms amp and i paided about 120$ for the resistive load i used wire wound resistors! I know wire wound aren't good b/c the impedance will change as you increase the frequency but i was at 50hz so it was all good! llol! and yes i used an oscope! and function generator! other then that the amp got like 1150~ i forget the name of the amp but it was sure fun times!! and for some reason i cant' find the pics i took! send me a p/m to remind me to look for some pics for you if you are interested!

congrats man!!

big 3 is a must also it wouldn't hurt to get the alt freshened up or even ask about an upgrade they normally don't cost that much! as for the battery go for it you don't have anything to lose!! also keep in mind batteries that aren't sealed will release a smell in your trunk hench why they get put under the hood!

n/p and it took him a good 3days for the total install and a bunch of idea's lol!! and if you need help i can help you out as best i can!

the saz 3500 isn't to much as long as you know what you are doing and know how to control the volume and follow your nose lol!!! but you need to bump responsibly so it doesn't get stolen! 3500 is what 1000 used... big bucks! fi what 200-400$ big money there plus your electrical a few batteries h/o alt wiring lol 2000$ easy

lmao o i have heard that reason before lol! good times! keep in mind when you spend nice money and you start to show it off and clown ppl you provoke ppl to go peaking around and maybe stealing!!! considering an fi and 2500-3500rms is a stupid amout of power and is much more then there wal-mart 500 setup!! lol

? why not? 2500k is a lot of power and you will need a secondary battery plus the big 3 upgrade just to keep your voltage up to snuff! hey if you do the install right and seal off the back seat from the trunk you wil get nice results! here check out my buddies build log in his cavy i believe his is older then yours! 1997 Cavalier Install Timeline 2005 - 2009 (4 installs)

i think the 1500 would be enough to power a 15inch btl but that is just me what are your goals?? and what is your electrical to support that t2500?