bigrank916

Need Adobe Reader 7.0. Works fine for me.

I would imagine it depends on how low you plan on wiring it for daily. I looked for a manual but I couldnt find anything.

What kind of ride is this? There is four stock 6x9 locations? Will they be in boxes? What kind of amp are you using on them? A little more info.

No you dont tune a sealed box. Thats retarded. I have a 7.5 ft3 in the back of my truck w/o the seat. I dont think so.

In order to really know what to apply to look the best, we should know if the surround is rubber or foam?

4th order box will be better than what its in now. Much better.

Maybe this will help. http://www.cartoys.com/cartoy/pdfs/Eclipse_spkr_manual.pdf

I set the stinger gauge to the dummy gauge thinking it was within range. After I installed the alt the dummy gauge barely went up so I thought I gained about .5-1 volt. No big deal, thats why I bought it. Set the stinger accordingly. No DMM at the time. Sorry, my batt up front is the only one and its a Sears trk/suv batt. It doesnt look bulged or leaking any fluids but the design of the outer casing makes it a little difficult to see. I was thinking maybe the oscope was off but he seemed pretty proud of what he claimed was a $500 piece. It did look nice, dont get me wrong. But you should always get at least two different sources to rule out that problem. Im still waiting to hear back from the guy down the street about borrowing his clamp. He cant remember where he put it. Im just recently unemployed so buying one is out of the question unless its a good deal. And Im not too into buying from ebay. The thing I still want to know is why the dummy only showed a slight increase in voltage? Also I play at 3/4 volume and the batt led doesnt light up on the dash. It used to before I installed the alt within five seconds. Now after install the dummy is in the danger zone because I turned down the voltage regulator and the batt led never comes on. The gauge barely moves just like before at 3/4 volume. You guys all say you wish you had my voltage problems. Well, do I even have that big of a voltage issue then? When I get another DMM and it reads the same at all places, should I worry about the extra voltage? I mean I wanted a little extra but not that much. Thanks for the input guys

The Colts will be kicking the shit out of the Niners today!

Going to need a little more info on your ride. I dont know if you put it in some other thread, but you have provided very little on this one.

The 20.1 says its ok to 16 volts. I dont see why the 40.1 would be much different.

One 3500D @ 1/2 ohm.

First post on a preorder. Nice.

What kind of vehicle is this going in? Ive heard good things about the SPL line too.

So it wasnt the right remote wire. That will do it.

Here is one in Arizona right here. http://www.mobiledynamics.com/main/phoenix/pages/main_8.aspx This one looks like a broad overview of a bunch of them. http://www.motorsportsemployment.com/mobile_electronics_schools.html

Sounds like you dont have one of the h/u wires correct. Did you double check those?

Ya if you want to really hear what those BTL's will sound like, get a h/o alt. With all that power, you cant be keeping up voltage wise. What kind of vehicle and alt in it? There is a lot of companies that can provide you with a high output alternator. What is your budget? For something like that I would go with at least a 200 amp but 250 or 300 will do even better. You already have a couple batts so thats good but how is the rest of your electrical?

Good enough. Im kinda stumped. Lets wait for someone else to chime in. Very strange.

Ive got one thats real close...

1/0 gauge to rear batt and amp and 8 gauge to driver if possible. Just seen 4 gauge done by chop and it looked pretty wicked to the sub.

Ya it sounds like you are having trouble getting the signal. Might be the rcas. How many preouts on the h/u? Are you sure you have the rcas hooked up to the sub preout?

I hate to ask but is the remote wire from the deck hooked up right? This is a strange problem.

How is your electrical? What kind of vehicle? How are the subs wires? A little more info?

So everything on the amp works fine and the subs play? Its just when you use the remote on the stereo, the amp goes into protection?