bigrank916

no I wanted to run all four from the 100.4. Each on seperate channels.

I am looking for some mids to put in my doors and wondering if these can do the trick. Id like to use 2 in each door off a SAX100.4. Then some dome tweets on the a-pillar off a SAX50.4. Like to use SSA but these are the only "speakers" they carry. Properly installed with deadening, can these round out my system. Id love to glass the doors with a nice setup but dont have the skills or the funds right now for that. I get tired of not being able to clearly hear the vocals, guitar, drums, etc. All my truck info is in the sig. All suggestions or comments are welcome.

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So I was at my local shop last weekend picking up some ring terminals for the big 3. I start tellin the owner what my new setup is going to be and wouldnt you know...hes talkin shit!!! Its not like I never bought stuff from him before. Hell the subs in my truck now are from him. So its like...Btl? Whats this? It looks like a spaceship. See look at those baskets. Thats an old style. People dont use those anymore...Sundown? Ya I think a guy came in here with that crap. 4500 watts? No, never man. Maybe 1875 at most...Yadda, yadda, yadda. I kept my cool and just let him run his mouth. I'll just let my system do the talkin for me. Cant wait to go back and blow that hairpiece right off his dome!

Your a dumbass. YOU'RE funny. He meant Mopar muscle, right?

Yes, I know that. I want to build a small one to make sure the driver is ok and as a reference point like I wrote in my post. How will I know if I dont like the box if I dont make it? I know the general 5-10 cuft. ported @ 30-35hz with 12-16sqin of port area per cubic foot. The final box will be bigger...trust me. This is my mock draft box 1.0 in March. There will always be changes until draft day. I am looking for more input on what type of enclosure for my vehicle. Im really intrigued with a blow-thru setup but Ive never tryed it before. Down firing sounds good also but I can imagine the bracing and bracketing will be extensive to hold that driver up. The bandpass is pretty straightforward depending on what order it is. If there is any other configuration that works well, by all means, put it on me. Id love to hear all opinions.

Ok here is the email I sent to Fi. Just thought Id post it here while I wait for their reply cause they r so busy. I bought an 18" BTL a while ago and need some recommendations on the type of enclosure I should use. First I went to my local shop to see what kind of designs they could offer me and what they thought would work best for my application. I talked to the guy that specializes in enclosures and unfortunately he hasn't heard of Fi before. So I gave him the web addy to get the parameters of the sub so he could plug the numbers into the enclosure software they have. But, the bad thing was, it couldn't calculate the specs for whatever reason. At that point we started bouncing ideas back and forth but ultimately he wanted me to contact you guys. Who better to get ideas and info from then the people who made the sub! Some of the things we discussed were doing a down firing box or maybe even a bandpass. We also talked about a blow-thru because I have a truck. It sounds real nice cause I can have my back seat again and ridiculous bass. I do believe in his skills to make this happen. All the ideas he has given are things he has done before in the same vehicle with success. He has been in spl competition many times. Hell, the guy has even built a few 8th order bandpass enclosures. If you can do that with success, you have got my vote! Now I'm not saying I want to build a wall behind my seat (not that one driver will constitute a wall) but I did buy a BTL so I do like to go really loud. With all that being said, here is what I have to work with. My truck is a 1991 Chevy Silverado c/k ext cab 2500. I have taken out the back seat for maximum area. The max dimensions of the back is 58"W x 24"H x 24"D. The sub will be powered by a Sundown Audio SAZ-4500d so there will be plenty of headroom. I know the sub doesn't need that much power but the amp was pre-ordered so its too late to turn back now. Plus I can always throw that 18 in my other car and grab 2 more to size it up right...someday. Right now Im building a simple 5-6 cuft. slot ported box tuned to 32hz after sub disp and int bracing. Mainly to make sure its not DOA but, also to get a reference point of how it sounds on the small end. So what do you bassheads think? And no, not the baking soda bassheads!!

x2 on that amp. If I remember correctly, I dont think the BTL's have a warr no matter what happens to em. But ya...dont buy it.

Either of those amps will push 2 BTL's very well. If you want 2 they should be the dual 1 ohm. You can even get one driver at a time if you dont have funds for both immediately and run one at 2 ohm with the 4500d or the RF as they make rated power for the BTL. IMO with everything being equal and proper electrical, I think the 4500d will be a better performer than the RF for that application. If you intend to run only one driver and stay that way then the 3500d would be a better choice. Even the 2000d would be great considering how efficient they are. I pre-ordered my 4500d on the first price level and couldnt tell myself not to pay the difference on the 3500d that I wanted. It seemed like such a great deal I couldnt say no! Plus I had already purchased my BTL with the thought of using the 2000d before the pre-sale came out on the 4500d. Damn those great prices!

many, many topics...including mine!

Too bad it's not Auburn,California or I would go. Anybody know of any shows in norcal coming soon?

Save your jack and do it the right way then. $300 shipped isn't very much to spend on a quality 1000 watt rms amp. Take it up to $400-500 and u will find many amps u do like.

Email sent.

u can try a Refurb hifonics bxi 2006 if u don't mind a downgrade. U can find it on sonicelectronixs.com for about 250. I have one and it works pretty well but it ain't stayin.

why would u want a system loud outside the car? Is that where u will be seated when u drive? What kind of enclosures r they in? It sounds like u need a lot of help. U should stay away from; "will this be louder than..." the knowledge gurus don't like answering those types of q's. It sucks but that's how it is. Try to research a little more here on older topics about what u want. Then start a new topic with a better formulated question.

how bout...Jacob will specifically tell u the end of October. That's all we know.

Just ordered the 50.4 and can't wait to see it. How many of the z drivers do u have left this morning? I might want to switch out my 2 15" Polkmomos in my Geo for a Z. Those r rated @ 1000 right?

gotta represent. R those flex fit hats pro cap style? I wish they were new era 5950's. I'd order 5. So sick.

Check out sonicelectronix kicker 1/0 wire kit with distribution blocks for 120. Very nice kit with a lot of extra stuff. Free ship and no tax if u aren't in Cali.

the saz 1000d is 355 right now shipped and would be a good fit. "It's only 50 bucks more sir and look how much u get." gotta love supertroopers!

system is fine, just switched amps and this is the only amp that does it in the same car. This is the first I've ever ran it at 2 ohm before. Always used it bridged to a sub without any problems but at 4 ohm. The manual says it is 2 ohm operational. What is really weird is that it won't shut off with classic rock but it will with rap. I'm guessing it has something to do with the bass lines in rap? Idk. Well I guess it's not meant to be. Oh well.

Buying an fi btl and found the forum. Which led me to sundown. Thanks for keeping the light on.

Sounds like a fine business proposition to me.

R u sure it's not late october? The new 4500d's r here!!! The new 4500d's r here!!! I love an early Christmas. The shirt looks nice. Oh, the amp too. lol:drink40:

I have a rockford punch 501s bridged to a polkmomo 15 at 2 ohm and it gets too hot and shuts off after about 30-45 min. Bass boost is all the way down and gain is @ 3/4. Gain knobs r messed up though because any less then that the sub is unnoticable. I always ran it at 4 ohm before and never got hot or had any problems. Now it just gets smokin hot. At least 7 years old or so. I guess I should just keep it as a 2 channel then huh?