Lucky 76

I am also curious to know what the difference is.

hey i already voted pal...lol lol and i want something free so bump!

I have had a bxi2006d for 2 years and gave it to my friend and he has had it for 1 year. The amp is great. I have tested mine and it put out 1886 @ 14.4v which is a little underrated but what do you want for $300. There is nothing wrong with the output on their amps (for what you are paying) and mine shit all over my kicker zx1500 which is a highly underrated amp. As far as sq goes there were some beats the amp could not pick up but nothing you would notice unless you were looking for it.

What is your spending budget?

Aahah is that the one with the wireless sub? My dad brought that home and I just laughed. He proceeded to bring it back.

The p4100 is a much cleaner piece than the 3100. There is also 3 prevolt outputs instead of 2. It has a front rear and sub vs a front and rear/sub switchable. The amount of prevolt outputs isnt really that big of a deal. They both have a 4V prevolt out which is great. The main difference is the screen. If you think the screen is worth $100 go for it.

instead of getting a btl why not just buy a bl and u wont have to buy another amp. It will be cheaper too.

Ya that is what I plan on doing. I was so pissed when I cracked the cd. That is the day everything bad was happening to me. Like my amps fuses were popping, bluetooth wasn't connecting, amongst other things. Just added to my day lol.

Ya I wish my elbow didnt crack my rockford fosgate 3sixty.2 cd. It had like 100 tracks on it with sweeps and whatnot so we could see where this thing started sounding like crap.

Just wants it to not pop and sound decent. Like there is literally no midbass at all in these speakers. They are popping off of nothing. I told him to look into the image dynamics 5x7 comp sets. SQ is not the primary factor but is important so these should do wonders under his budget. I gotta see how much I can get them from my dealer in the bronx. Maybe around $250 which would be worth waiting and spending the extra cash. Those ID's won't help. It will help WAY MORE than those ID's. Then there is an install issue and YES that includes deadening. I would be there is also a setting or two that is jacked on either your amp or headunit. If I were you, I'd post all your settings up here way before I spent any money. Also curious what frequencies you are lacking in midbass and how you determined which ones they were. Popping occurs on mainly techno and hip hop where there is a good amount of midbass. I do not know what frequencies those are. Vocals are fine, kick pedal drums are fine. Pretty much just techno and hip hop beats is where they lack and pop. Great idea posting the setting on everything. Josh you need to get on that. If not I will do it Saturday night.

The stock backs have more of a clean midbass and louder midbass than the front cdts lol. Both are undeadened.

Just wants it to not pop and sound decent. Like there is literally no midbass at all in these speakers. They are popping off of nothing. I told him to look into the image dynamics 5x7 comp sets. SQ is not the primary factor but is important so these should do wonders under his budget. I gotta see how much I can get them from my dealer in the bronx. Maybe around $250 which would be worth waiting and spending the extra cash.

I have a pair of these audiobahn. They are from an old setup of mine.. I'm not repairing it to use, I'm repairing it to help sell the pair in this box. I've been through multiple setup. But if you still wish to give some opinions, here's my goals and whatnot: much spl, sq isn't a real concern because with as loud as I will be playing, it won't make much difference. I have a 99 pontiac grand am. I'm looking into (for my next install): 1 18" btl 230 amp h/o alt yellow top optima battery big three upgrade You will not be able to fit an 18" in there and it sound right, get the 15" and put it in 5ft^3 and call it a day. x2. The only way u might be able to fit that size sub in there (not talking about volume but just fitting the speaker in period) would be to face it up. Your trunk might actually explode.

He said he isnt worried about the lack of power. He already knows this. The lack of midbass is the problem. The speaker is bottoming out. Increasing the high pass filter just means that the speakers cannot handle lower frequencies. There is only a maximum of 100 watts rms going to those which is underrated, the filter is set to 100 hz, and the eq is set to flat. There should be no reason for the speaker to be bottoming out like that deadened or not. Deadening will help but not completely. Josh just texted me and told me that he is going to buy the deadener along with the components.

thanks this is what i needed to know. glad I could help

Btl is a good choice. I dont know if you have enough volume in the trunk to fit such a large box. Have you taken measurements yet? Also what do you plan on doing as far as an amp goes? As far as the audiobahn goes. It is cheaper just to buy a new set. Sell them as is.

Time to blow up that piece of audiobahn and get your hands on a real sub. What are your spending limits, music preferences, etc. Do you want just a loud ass sub, something that sounds good while playing loud, or strictly a sound quality subwoofer. What are your space limitations? What type of car do you have?

Ya this semester is a little rough for me. I dont plan on getting much above a 3.0 this semester. Uconn has a very hard engineering program and when you are doing a dual major in electrical and computer engineering it makes it that much worse lol. You know it's sad when Dean's List in the School of Engineering = 3.4 ahaahha.

Ya I am doing exams as well. I am pretty sure I got a 100 on my Engineering Physics exam today. Now I gotta study calculus to the max. Need to get a good grade so I am still eligible for my minor in math.

Try removing the faceplate and put it back on. It could be that it did not completely click in.

I am curious as well. I did not have time to test because I had to leave for college. I am going to be back for break saturday after my exam so I will most likely test it then. Let's hope we get to the bottom of this!

Your car can be ran without a battery as long as your alternator works. That is how back in the old days they used to check to see if your alternator was bad. They would disconnect the battery and if the car ran it was fine, if not then the alternator was bad.

Does it matter which side you switch? I would try every iteration. Not just the pair, but the independent drivers. (ie each tweeter and each mid and every possible combination) Will do. Thanks!

Hahahahahahah! Shops are hilarious. When I worked at Boomer McLoud (keep in mind this was my junior year of high school), the installers would try to tell me all this crap and everything they said was wrong. Just throw a couple caps in your car and that will fix your issue, put another set of tweeters in your car that will make them louder, if a speaker is rated at 100 rms you should not throw more than 50 rms at them ....... etc. I tried to tell them the right stuff and they kept telling me that I need to get off the internet and I was just a high school kid lmao. The best would be if I had a problem I would go down the street and ask this guy that was a judge in World Finals (sound quality comps idk which) and ask him what to do.

Hahahahahahah! Shops are hilarious. When I worked at Boomer McLoud (keep in mind this was my junior year of high school), the installers would try to tell me all this crap and everything they said was wrong. Just throw a couple caps in your car and that will fix your issue, put another set of tweeters in your car that will make them louder, if a speaker is rated at 100 rms you should not throw more than 50 rms at them ....... etc. I tried to tell them the right stuff and they kept telling me that I need to get off the internet and I was just a high school kid lmao.