Lucky 76

If you wanted to set it exactly right you would have used an oscilloscope not a DMM. A DMM has no way of telling if the amp is clipping, it simply measures the output voltage you are producing (among other things). As far as not clipping at all you have no idea whether it is or not since minor clippage is not audible to the ear.

chop chop

Does it matter which side you switch?

The best ever was when some kid was talking smack about my friends setup without knowing what he had. My friend was like pop your trunk and let me see what you have. Sitting there is a single clarion 8 shallow mount in like a .2 cu foot sealed box. My friend proceeded to shit his pants

The amp does not have to be grounded to the chassis as long as the battery is sufficiently grounded to the chassis. Check all your grounds! The amp takes the battery's ground and uses it to ground itself so check that bad boy out. What are you using to ground your battery as far as gauge wire goes?

Never mind. I was looking at the picture completely wrong ahahha. They are 6"x10" pieces. So just cover the areas where vibration is present, around the speaker and at the center of the door and call it a day

This will not take care of the road noise however correct? It only takes into account speaker resonance?

So this stuff says there is no need to deaden the entire panel. You only have to deaden the areas where resonance occurs and that will take care of the entire door?

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well. Something VERY similar, although superior. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld Interesting. I was looking at these myself. I did not believe that they worked that well. So how would we deaden near the speaker?

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well.

x2934728403!

They get those alarms for much cheaper than that. Remote starter/alarms have one of the biggest margins when it comes to profit. At boomers we used to charge $199 for a cheap remote starter and we only payed $30 for the unit. My AST 2 way costed me $289 and was an $849 piece or something rediculous like that lol. Still that is insane that he put something on the line like that. I am so surprised he even admitted to it being louder than those pos audiobahns lol.

The fuse might not be the issue. By taking the fuse out you are just "resetting the memory". Check the connections, switch the fuse just to be safe, and if that does not work look into checking your grounds.

Get that fatmat garbage out of here. That is going to just peel off and melt off in the summer ahahha. http://www.raamaudio.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=7&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=60 That will be enough to do all 4 doors, the rear hatch and then some.

The inline fuse was not in place. No live has ever touched the heat sink.

I guess I could use one of those or just use the 50.4 I already have installed in the car. Great thinking. My mind is in the gutter ahahaha

Ya i am going to ask my friend to bring his over and see what happens.

I also checked the inline fuse and it is not popped. When I took out the inline fuse the fuses in the amp did not pop (sounds obvious but there could be a short coming from some other power source that is why I am stating this).

Will do. I might try this in a couple minutes actually. I have a distrobution block set up right now (no battery in the back). I am assuming that I can just measure the ohms from there.

I haven't popped off the back cover because that voids the warranty. I am thinking that it is a short somewhere down the line. I just have not found it yet. Just trying to figure out if there is something else that might cause the fuses to pop.

I noticed that the power and ground were opposite on the 125.2 and the 50.4 but they were indeed plugged in correctly. Even with the fuses popped shouldn't the amp turn on? Like shouldn't the blue or red light come on still? Could the speaker wires themselves be causing a short (near the speaker itself)?

I am going to try putting the amp in my friends car and see if the same result happens. If not we know there is something in the wiring going bad. If the fuse pops .... well .... them amp is bad straight from sundown. I have a funny feeling that won't be the case though ahahahaa.

So I bought some fuses today. I took the fuse out from the wire going to the amp and then inserted the fuses on the amp. I then put the fuse going to the amp back on. The fuses connected to the amp still blew. The red protect or blue on light has yet to go on at all. Any other suggestions?

fixed for reality I dont understand where you are coming from with this. We changed everything around and then tested the power handling. I dont know if you knew this or not. If you did could you please enlighten us on how to fix the speaker installation so they will be able to handle more power.

Really? I have never heard of that. I will have to try that in my own install.