Lucky 76

so 4k will sound almost the same as 8k then?

I have 2 sets of re xxx 6.5 components ... i was thinking about going active but i do not know what the benefits would be and if it would be worth me spending the extra money for another amp ... would these speakers do well with an active setup? they are rated at 150 rms each (mid+twwet combined) ... how much power should i put to each mid and each tweeter? the ohm rating on the set is 2 ohm but will that change each speakers impedence?

alright thanks for the info

would what i said before work if i wanted to go active? if i wanted to run my mids off the 100.4 and my tweets off the 50.4? or will there be a xover issue?

would you be able to tell me the likelyhood of a possible sale

well at first i intended on running pasive at 2 ohm non bridged ... so each output on the amp would go to its own crossover... the comps are 2 ohm not 4 ... i have 2 sets of comps so 4 mids 4 tweeters ...would going active be a better idea instead of running passive to those components? the output states 160x4 at 2 ohm ... wat will it actually put out?

x2 also im suprised those subs on ur roof didnt cave it in

should i be running active with those speakers? if so will the 50.4 work for my tweeters and the 100.4 work for my mids?

right now i am pressed for cash and i cannot buy what i want. is there a possibiblity that there will be more sales going on sundown amps such as the 3500 before xmas?

no i was running passive ... y does it matter as far as output goes?

i was just wondering what the typical output on a 100.4 will do at 2 ohm. i have 2 sets of re xxx comps and i wanted to know if this amp will supply enough power to them

I understand that if you have the same setup you need to double your wattage each time to get 3 db louder. My question is when you get up to say 4kw and you have to double it to 8kw to get 3 db louder is there a significant difference in loudness? Is it the same audible difference than say the same setup at 200 rms is doubled to 400 rms.

you should just save up for the new zed 6 channel lol ... digital and if it is simplicity you are after this is for you ... there is not many options when it comes to 6 channel ur better off with a 4 and 2

i agree ... kickers are good amps - esp their kx series ... no need to get something new

i would just leave that system stock ... im sure it sounds incredible already ... its amazing what rich people drive for everyday cars ... my dads friend owns a company that does all the security for all the major las vegas casinos and he drives like a 94 civic for his everyday car lol

btw its just putting that prius to shame in the background

ya i was able to see the concept of this car in 07 before it was released and i almost gizzed myself

if he puts subs in a car like that i might have to personally smack him

how do you like those c&d bats? i was going to buy 3 or 4 for my car

btw tirefryr i must say that whenever i see your icon i must stop and gaze for a good minute lol

i was talking to dom about isos and he said for every 1 good reason to get one there is 10 bad ones ... why did he say this and what are the disadvantages

ya i left that alone ... id figure u would chime in about some isos lol

Ford didn't make a 135 amp alt, it's actually 130 amp, but make sure you have the correct alt, as in '04 they used the small case 3G (115amp), and the 4G(130 amp), so you may not have the necessary current you need. The 4G will actually put out about 150 so if you do have that, you should be okay on your electrical side. My Taurus handled my BPX2200 no problem, along with 3 other amps, so you should be okay. I do suggest upping to the 200 just for safety's sake. The 200 amp Ford offerings are solid as a rock if you buy them from a reputable vendor. You can actually get an OEM Ford 200amp alt if you look hard enough. Quality Power Auto, is not well known by many, but they are very well known in the rebuilding world. High class products from a great company. Don't hesitate to use them! . . . . And you do not NEED a dual alt setup. While this is ideal, in all instances, it is not a necessity. Be leery of what people post on the internet, as the wealth of misinformation is greater that that of information. x2 - i think the 130 amp usually comes on the v8 model or with the towing package i forget ... i know my aviator had a 130 and it did work ... charged that bitch at 14.6 and didnt drop below 12.8 AT ALL ... this was with a bxi2006d and jbl 1004 along with other accessories on

Sorry about the excessive comments but thats where im stuck at. If i might have to get a bigger alternator then why not spend the money that i would be buying a battery with on a alternator? well you are asking if i am going to need a bigger alt in the long run why not just got a bigger alt! well how about lets look at this mathematically for a 2000rms setup at 1ohm your amp will need like 45amps. but 2000rms/12.8volts = 156amp draw! so if your alt puts out 150 you will be able to supply the demand. is that correct or did i screw something up? i will just get a big enough battery to support my system. right now my setup is 1 15inch ns 2- batcap 2000's and STOCK battery and STOCK alt (105) and a SAZ2000 pushing all it is worth. my lowest voltage i have read off of my stinger volt meter is 12.8volts at full tilt after playing a full song. I have 2 Deka Intimidators with a stock 90amp alt and stock battery...with an SAZ3000D and 100.4 and I never go below 12.8 on a tone. Whats the website where I can look up the specs of the Dekas? I think im going to go with a Kinetik 2000 or 2400 if I get it at a good price in addition to my yellow top u should get a single powermaster. it will cost u a lot less than a kinetik. i dont know about the dekas and how good they are as i have no experience with them. people rave about them tho as they are not that expensive and do work. i would also be interested to see the data sheets

THANKS! That was the type of answer i was looking for! Getting the battery! make sure to up the big 3