///M5

Still tells me nothing really. You need to work on your definition. Either way, you need some components at the very least and even then its going to be tough. Classically things are lost with more than 10dB of separation. Considering it is different frequencies you buy a lot since they won't mask nearly as much as similar frequencies. Either what you have isn't within 40dB of the rest so you have a LONG way to get to "keeping up"

Perhaps I wasn't clear. What do you mean by keeping up? 150dB from a front stage will fucking kill your ears VERY quickly.

What can you fit. 6x8's will not cut it, not even close. And if you want 150dB+ out of your front stage you'll be deaf in minutes.

Sweet. 8 min to go and STL just put two in net within less than 30 seconds to go up 2-1. My second favorite team is whomever is playing the San Jose Sharks.

It doesn't work. A diode allows flow in only one direction. If he needed to add some for some reason there was another major problem with his system there is no reason they'd be necessary in a working system nor would they help.

Is automatic chosen by a computer better than choosing for your ears? I realize you need a starting point, so use the Imprint for that since you have it. Btw, I never said anything about SQ. I'd set it up so it sounds best to you no matter what that is. SQrewing it up in your case won't help you feel better about it. I am a little more concerned with your approach on midbass additions though. If you still have the gear in your sig, then it's time to change mid/high drivers completely and not add more drivers.

And with strength comes lively resonances. Everything is a trade-off. There is something particularly great about paper. Doesn't mean that the sex appeal of CF doesn't exist.

Tweeter isn't as hard. Pick a material, pick your mounting location and off axis requirements, pick a similar sensitivity (power normalized) and go. While a set of ID horns would also be stellar in this case, the amount of eq work required may be beyond the install at hand. Would definitely help a ton in the output realm, but then you'd need to start looking at an enclosure for the mids and perhaps even a port to help fill out the bottom end. There is a trade-off here. These are not monster midbasses, but monster mids. Pretty much roll off in application below 100Hz, but his subs can play higher only sacrificing localization and the lack of power compression woes will really help in particular with his music tastes. Getting any of those drivers into a bit more than 1/2 a cube tuned to the high-60Hz range will really bring out the bottom end too. That isn't necessary for the tactile chest feel he is after though and will be easier to attain in an 8" driver with a pro mid.

You are going to love it!!

Nice answer to my question, lol.... have you ever even owned either driver in question?? You dont have to convience me of anything, you choose to join in on a thread started by someone asking a question and yet you dont not even remotely try to convince him or really even help. Im sure we are all glad the "SSA Tech Team" representative is such help to us all with your smart ass short "high and mighty" answers as ALWAYS. But I will say this and leave this thread alone. Being a successful business owner myself, nobody would be allowed to represent my company name in the way you do SSA. You honestly bring negativity to almost everything you post in, your sig is proof of your self thought holiness. For clarification, I haven't owned either driver. Familiar with them though. Just the same as the Porsche Cayenne Turbo and BMW X5 M. i haven't owned them either, but am very familiar and instead made a different decision in the ML63. Amusing to me that the expectation was that I own them, but the comparison was in a vehicle "that I heard" also showing no ownership. As I've said in every thread like this. 99% of the time Q buyers should buy the BL. There are exemptions as they've sold over a 100. In this thread that was obvious as well as a whole it wasn't thought out very well, not much detail was shared, and a very simple question ended in 3 question marks. The OP obviously couldn't figure the answer out himself which means in implementation there will be difficulties, his goals are probably dubious, and there is a definite advantage of the BL for that sort of user. Don't think you can attempt to argue with that. As for trying to attack me, if it makes you feel better feel free. I don't and won't state my business status or my background to try to develop respect as instead I'll let my posts do it for me. If you don't like what I say, that's fine I don't expect everyone too.

Way to keep your variables the same, lol. If your basing that as your comparison nothing I say will be convincing. If your happy, stay happy, it's better for all of us.

Whomever sold you the H100 with it was shady.

The 9887 has all the processing built in, it's just manual. No need for the imprint unless you want the automatic crap.

Got ya,, Do you like I should try adding 2 more ports and cap 1 off? That would be 4 4" ports at 17-18 inches. Or should I start over? Pretty hard to add ports since they take away from box volume....which perhaps you never accounted for either which would make that box rather small. Before starting over a review of what you have and what you plan would be in order.

Yikes.

Your comparisons were biased to the results you wanted. Did you compare them in boxes geared towards doing the same thing? I know it's a rhetorical question, but obviously not. A few other misnomers, tuning to 25Hz in a car is a waste, makes no sense at all. You are exemplifying my comment though. Of course it was the right choice for you since you have it. No use comparing things evenly. Ugh.

It can do 2 way, but I wouldn't use imprint to do that. Every imprint implementation I've heard was jacked and fixed by resetting to zero and starting over.

I did that to my wives. Never seen that before though, nice temp solution

Aha, as long as you wear the beard we're set.

Cool, where is Rumspringa?

I am a Seas nut, but not sure that is the right driver for you. The Dayton maybe however. They did have some problems with them all meeting spec a while back though which limited how low they can play. That was in the first run and years ago so I'd "guess" they solved it by now. There are other options though. I'd pick dome material before going nuts. As for mids, with your needs I'd be looking at one of these: B&C 8ndl51 B&C 8sp21 Eighteen Sound 8nmb420 Beyma 8BR Faital Pro W8N8-200 Faital Pro 8FE200 JBL 2118h (if you aren't opposed to used) As I said before, not my normal recommendations but I think for your music tastes power compression woes are more dangerous than running out of midbass. Don't get me wrong, you will be compromising the lower midbass response and have to run your sub higher to use some of these, but you will gain a ton in the guitar and drum reproduction in particular in the tactile sense.

I think the pole will be gone this year though. Liability of every chick walking by wanting to ride it. Sucks to, because it's hours of entertainment for me.

Again, I'll make this VERY simple. If you are double thinking then a Q is not for you. Buy the BL.

Bring on summer!

I am going to try and get him to. Plenty of opportunities on our lake Probably be on a boat when it happens though.