///M5

A little fruity but what the hell Gay2

with a cherry?

The hope is to get them down as far as I can, towards the bottom of the A-pillar. I lost the link because it was last night when I was reading it, but one person mentioned aiming the FR's up reflecting off the glass to raise the stage and reduce any beaming. Eek. Stop reading recommendations. Just build some temporary pods and aim them all around yourself. EVERY driver and EVERY car/dash will be different. It was just what someone else did in their install that I had not thought of for a FR. That someone either has funny ears, got really lucky, has a very unusual car, or just did something and is now defending it. If it was for a smaller portion of the midrange it could be a different story, but when you are dealing with 250-20kHz (+/- some nominal amount) then it is a dangerous proposition to play with reflections. Your best bet is always to minimize them, not to "use" them.

So if I go this route, 8053 > 880? In fact, 880 is a no go.

You mean your subjective name dropping won't help here. Correct. How do you measure unsinkable? Considering that was your only response it surely verifies that indeed measurements on drivers are right and you have nothing to refute them. And yep, subjective nonsense won't help. Snake oil is NOT something anyone on here subscribes to.

I must concede that rum may just be the right answer and mine jacked.

I am done visiting your thread. I asked you something very simple and you ignored it completely and even argued and still can't follow the simple noob guidelines. If that is the amount of respect you have for the board then I will return the favor.

First mistake. Early AM, cappuccino Any time later in the day, espresso coffee/americano is only for when eating something that it pairs very well with. Yes, opinionated I am.

My recommendation to others as was stated earlier is do read objective test results and opinions on drivers, pick a couple, buy one of each and start playing in your own ride. Considering these are all in the sub-$25 range pretty much it really won't hurt that bad. On top of that when you are done you could build little mini-monitors for your pc out of the ones you don't choose for your car.

The hope is to get them down as far as I can, towards the bottom of the A-pillar. I lost the link because it was last night when I was reading it, but one person mentioned aiming the FR's up reflecting off the glass to raise the stage and reduce any beaming. Eek. Stop reading recommendations. Just build some temporary pods and aim them all around yourself. EVERY driver and EVERY car/dash will be different.

Emotional decisions aren't ever logical. Best not to react on them and post anything, it surely doesn't help you make your point. Nice argument, errr, not at all. What I don't understand is how you can preach and agree with objective and then always roll back to subjective as reasoning. What this implies to all those reading is exactly that you are getting defensive for a reason. If you were just defending the drivers you'd have a more logical comeback instead of an emotional one. Even worse when you add the fact that no one even attacked them but it created a defensive reaction anyways. If you want to make a point do it objectively and not emotionally or subjectively. Ultra already showed us how the approach you are currently taking works. I am not so sure it would be healthy to copy them. Then why is this so hard for you? I asked before and I'll ask again. Give an example just once where real measurements showed something and were wrong.

The parametric goes down to 200Hz on the 8053 and the HP you can do at 200/250/315/400/500 which should "cover" you well enough to pull this off. Ideal, no but when you have one driver taking the brunt of the music you can easily accept that compromise. http://www.eclipse-web.com/us/manuals/manual_pdf/CD8053%281-1441A%29.pdf Page 94

Is the noise there whether the key is in accessory on or in "driving" position on even with the engine off?

Sent this to my work email, this will be fun for sure. My boss actually sent it to me.

That is because you've never had one done right. BIG pieces of meat should always be cooked slowly. Frying doesn't do that. And yes an oven can yield skin that is equal to that of a fried bird, but it isn't trivial to get right unlike the deep fryer. You've perhaps seen those oil less deep fryers? Guess what they really do. lol. Don't get me wrong, the skin should be delectable as it IS the best part of the animal. Well my family typically fries smaller birds, no gigantic birds for frying. We typically have two Turkeys one fried and one baked. It's not that i hate baked birds.. it tends to be kinda dry, since the bird has been dropped in oil it tends to be slightly more moist. The oil has NOTHING to do with the moisture level. Proper cooking is what determines that. Tell them to stop overcooking the shit out of the one in the oven. Dry turkey sucks, but don't blame the cooking method instead blame the cook. Feel free to post a little something in the HAF cooking corner!!! please!!! I don't have it nailed yet as I've only done two in my whole life. I do subscribe to Alton Brown's tent the breast theory though, just not the amount he lets it brown. First step in making ANY poultry is to get a good meat thermometer. If your bird crosses the 161 mark it will be dry.

No, you can't read. My box was 3ft gross. Gross includes the driver, the port, the bracing and everything. NET it is only .65cuft. Box building 101. My comments above were VERY clear.

I only bash comments, not people. There are a bunch of absurd posts on here. Not my fault your butt hurts from this one. If you aren't into serious port turbulence there is no way in hell that you can put that driver in a 0.8cuft GROSS box like you recommended. Model it once and then come back and respond. As for SQ/SPL whatever. You just defined my beef with most of the people whom don't like my posts. One sided responses. My are pointed sure, but they are never pointed in a direction where I recommend what I would do, but what I would recommend for their goals. In your case you just came in and spouted first some nonsense that doesn't work and then on top of that you completely ignored the OP's goals and didn't at all listen to what he wanted and instead told him what you thought. And never once have I claimed to be a god, just not an idiot. I learn everyday and will never stop, too bad you seem to have given up on that. He said gross not me. My box is .65 NET. Gross it is more than 3 cubes. Obviously you have never built a low tuned small enclosure otherwise you wouldn't have piped up. Just to give you an jman a hint, to have a reasonable mach with only 250w you will have a port that is larger than .8cuft which means it won't fit in a .8cuft box obviously.

Has to be from how it looked raw

The steak was nearly an inch thick pre-cooked and covered a half sheet pan (ie 13x18)

No you did not. Did you hate it?

Gotta love that. I was about to ask the size of the tab. THAT is a high percentage tip. I had quite a few $50+ tips when I tended bar, but they were on MUCH larger purchases.

And to re-highlight the success and failure will depend on your mounting locations and aiming. Ramos's phrase here REALLY is important. 90% install, 5% equipment, 5% beer. If you can't do dash pods and aim them right then I would worry about the top end, but if you do you are golden.

It only says 64oz on the webpage, but on Meat & Potatoes (no wasn't watching but flipped and had to see that shit) said it was 10lbs.

Matt, this would solve your craving. http://www.thecowtowndiner.com/NewsDetail.aspx?Id=7

This in the civic? If it is only happening when you are only on accessory I'd expect a voltage concern. Gong to have to bypass it to find out. First thing though is measure your voltage in both positions and see. When you say static is it white noise?