///M5

Amusingly I paid <$50 for this: http://www.amazon.com/Mauviel-Kasserolle-Mh%C3%A9ritage-Cuprinox-Saucepan/dp/B000RPUJLS/ref=sr_1_124?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1286595659&sr=1-124 its about time Amazon started carrying real pans Actually have no idea what I paid, but I do know that for 5 sauce pans, lids, and 3 frying pans it was less than that one pan

Copper >> cast

Come to the BWCA with me and I'll show you some weird camp fire cooking

I feel sorry for you. Both on the protein selection & restaurant selection.

Any top of the line steakhouse worth their salt will have a few of these (or comparable) in the kitchen: http://www.southbendnc.com/170.shtml Short of using a blowtorch, dangerously well stoked ceramic cooker, or throwing the steaks directly on a pile of charcoal you're not going to get a much hotter surface Or just any ceramic burner like my lynx has. Easy to "make" your own. I may add a second outside of the grill when I build in my wok burner.

Sadly no..........Its cooled off a bit lately. Plus dust/sand/animals=no good Eh 750 is about what I was gonna pay for a gas grill that can use propaine and nat gas.........Alot more 'blingy' but this seems like a 10x better investment. J I can't imagine my last few posts have weakened that statement.

Truffle butter is a waste of truffles IMO. When you have Wagyu, butter on beef is a waste of beef. Good meat >>>>> ALL.

personally, I find that 600-700 is more than adequate for grilling 95% of foods out there that being said there is very little out there that beats a thick cut of premium marbled beef grilled at 1,000F+...especially with a bit of truffle butter thrown on top at the end :droolcup: You miss the point. Nothing needs to be cooked that hot, but getting the finish on as fast as possible and then cooking as slow as possible is ALWAYS the goal. Finish at the beginning or end doesn't matter, but without two of them the only real method is sear first, rest, then cook, rest, eat. Resting makes a HUGE difference. If you don't, start ASAP.

I think Sean said he built his for under 20 bucks. They have designs all over the place. BGE owners are crazy, you'll find all kinds of designs, and plans out there. Yep, under 15 IIRC. Not including the nails from my gun from my finish nailer, nor the glue but only used nominal amounts. For the BGE you'd have to add a hunk of slate, although I'd buy two-three and a placesetter so I could do the best pizza ever.

grill one side, flip, remove If it doesn't bleed, it was cooked to long. Except it isn't blood Not just for beef btw. Pork over 137 is ruined.

Mine will hit nearly 800, but it sucks compared to the egg. If you research gas grills for weeks you'll decide what I have is the cats meow, but the BGE/Kamado style grills REALLY, REALLY, REALLY put it to shame. She's a beast: http://www.lynxgrills.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=20

Depends on your goals. Sear, rest, cook, rest, eat. Still doesn't take that long

The temperature gauge on the outside of mine experienced spontaneously exploding glass. The stoker fan HELPS.

I melted the edges of gasket material that is stable to 1750 deg F.

I'd actually like a small, but exclusively for high temp cooking. I figure it would heat really fast and require almost no fuel. Build it into the center of a table and have the best Yakiniku setup eVar.

I'm sorry and you're welcome.

I'm thinking about buying a second BGE and the rock stoker. I would have nearly 2k in outside cooking and I live in a place where it will be -20 and I'll still use it. How long will one run before you have to add more coals to it if you are smoking something? I have the Viking version of it, but with the Stoker connected and about a 1/6th load I can do a brisket for 20 hours.

Wonder from where Hopefully they will make you feel better. Byerlys had the half off sale. It was 10 bucks a pound for honestly, the nicest looking king I've seen. If you want to hate me more, go buy one Bristol Bay leg from you know where and compare. Of course, I'd still love what you have What time should I be over?

wouldn't i get a better 'ht' result with it in a big box tuned in the 20s than with a sealed box? No, if it were tuned in the teens you would; otherwise sealed.

I think you read the label wrong.

Then even if the charts would be accurate they would be horribly dangerous for you to follow. It seems like every few years there is a movement to grab onto one particular portion of the T/S parameters and use it for purchasing a sub. We've gone through power, excursion, cone area...no matter what you choose it is ALWAYS a terrible idea to use only one parameter to decide anything. If you don't understand the full set of parameters you really shouldn't use any of them for selecting anything.

Not without experience or luck, but if you have either or both of course.

You've got it wired wrong.

FUCK NO.

Wonder from where Hopefully they will make you feel better.