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///M5

SSA Tech Team
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Everything posted by ///M5

  1. ///M5 replied to Kent535's topic in General Audio
    No, bad idea. Instead buy subs that fit the box you can build.
  2. A quick model will show you a ton. Although being you are this critical of the box, perhaps you should look at other drivers as well. Hard to know how to respond though if you only concern is a .7 Q as you can do that with nearly any driver that is suitable for a sealed box.
  3. Anything in particular you have your eye on as a replacement? Waiting for winmob7 phones to be released or the Droid to go global. Currently it won't work in Europe which means it won't work for me. Why wait for that, the iphone is a joke.
  4. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    i saved some scraps just in case next up is fiberglassing the 3's in the A pillers. not sure if i want to glass them directly or makes pods... first i need to figure out if i would like the mids up higher (above the steering wheel and gauge cluster) to avoid reflections or make pods (puts the speaker as far away from me as possible). i think if i go higher it will look really... really ugly! theres no depth behind the panels i never tried putting them in the kicks though. i should try it just to rule it out i guess. What car? Never hurts to try multiple locations although getting things on axis and at the right height helps.
  5. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Stopping rubbing is one of two possible uses for CCF. Glad you are enjoying it!
  6. Funny thing is the question is moot anyways. If you actually LISTEN to your driver it will tell you many, many things before it breaks. It isn't hard to know when to stop. Not needing to break-in is NOT an excuse to be a friggin idiot and blow your stuff up. Just note that whether you "broke it in" or not it is 100% completely your fault. The drivers parameters will change and stabilize after some use, but the changes will happen whether you want or not and making it happen slowly has absolutely no benefit in the process. The ONLY thing you need to do is start low and gradually turn things up, not at all to protect your sub based on its state as new, but to insure that you the operator didn't make any install boo-boo's that could cause it to fail *note again these would all be installer/operator error*.
  7. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    The association by laws not being enforced
  8. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Yay. Get to go negotiate with our bitching neighbor for my neighborhood board. SURE glad I am the VP.
  9. - AudioQue. I know its AQ but this is their take on breaking in subs. Goes to further show how jacked their marketing is. I surely don't want anything they make.
  10. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    I'd want them driving around in an E55
  11. Bosch makes a decent one. For around a $100 I'd go this way used though, Hitachi makes a serious workhorse: Hitachi M12V2 3-1/4 Peak HP Router, Plunge, Variable Speed Hitachi M12SA2 3-1/4 Peak HP Plunge Router Single Speed The other great option is the PC. Amazon.com: Porter-Cable 895PK 12 Amp 2-1/4-Horsepower Fixed and Plunge Base: Home Improvement That is the dual base which I own and it is definitely a nice unit. If I was budget limited though I'd grab the Hitachi and never look back.
  12. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    You aren't truly interested in absolutes anyways
  13. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Defacto standard there for the unusual foot
  14. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    top
  15. Will it make a difference? Yes. Will it do what you need? Not sure, you haven't described what your concern is. It is definitely a parameter that you need to design around.
  16. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Quadruple E?
  17. Does it have a built in electronic crossover like the Alpine CDA-9886 ? Huh? The 9886 has an EXTREMELY limited crossover, the 9887 was the unit with the crossover. What features do you need?
  18. Those tests are NOT measurements of power. As Jacob even cited they are just UNIFORM tests between them giving a rough idea of how they rank. 1000w, 1200w, not an audible difference. IMO running beyond what is rated is dangerous unless you really know what you are doing. Either will be fine for your application.
  19. Puke. Try harder please.
  20. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    We are already down to four?
  21. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    For what purpose? For measuring the sound pressure level in the car, a replacement for the termlab which I'm using now. Keep the termlab. There is no such thing as an affordable mic that will measure the levels you are describing. They'll start around $8k.
  22. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Have to quote this so I'll see it later when connected with sound.
  23. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    For what purpose?
  24. ///M5 replied to mrray13's topic in Off Topic
    Let's see, I need to build a bed, kitchen table, two dressers, and the cabinets for HT. I'll be over in 5 hours. You plan on driving fast obviously

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