///M5

Multiple layers isn't the solution. A better mat means you only have to cover a portion of the panel.

Hmm, from your thread it surely doesn't sound like you are that impressed with it.

Shit the Pantera is and I have to modify that.

Oh and I WISH the C was nearly as big as the E. I'd be all down with one of those, but I cannot even sit in the thing. The Noble is MILES bigger on the inside.

Except we know you are from Texas even more now. You picked Jim Bob as your anonymous friends, lol.

Best to address that face first, just fucking ask. Problem solved. If he was being a female he should have warned you of his estrogen influenced BS.

Completely agree. They should. Actually for that torture is appropriate. That sort of crime puts you below the level of simple animals to me. Hell we need some beings for medical testing, let's use 'em. You just violated your right to be a human, so fuck PETA we are testing on you.

ROFL, practically??? You are very undersized then. They are friggin ridiculously teeny on the inside. There is more room in a Lotus Elise. Easier to get into than the Elise, but regrettably smaller.

I suppose I should do laundry so I can pack for my flight to Europe tomorrow.

Oh and the 720prs set you originally chose is a great set. The tweeter is a little weak, but conveniently that is about the only thing you can demo on a sound board so give them a listen and if you like the top end go for it. The bottom end will sound WAY better installed in your car. Considering you are putting the tweeters in your door next to the mid you should listen to them on a sound board rather off axis.

MJ recommended the dash or kicks never the doors, in fact the opposite so I figured if you were following that advice you were in for some serious install work. Your doors will be fine. Hell that is where I have the drivers in my Silverado. The dash on those trucks SUCKS and I am not a huge kicks fan. My truck is just a beater, but still the only major thing lacking in it is stage height...and yes just like those with kicks I can dial the stage height up with processing but am much more interested in tonality and an accurate response. It is the compromise that I chose mostly in this case based on time and the fact that it is just a boat/snowmobile toter that needed improved tunes. I am running 2 way active, but 2 way passive could be just as effective. You will benefit from some t/a and definitely some eq as well. The great part of the Silvy doors is that they generally are pretty easy to get nice midbass from. You do need to seal up that huge hole in the door though to try to separate the back/front wave from the driver as much as possible. If you do use MDF as a baffle, don't forget to seal it with sanding sealer/paint as the doors in your truck leak like a sieve in a carwash or the rain. Still re-iterating that the install is the most important part. Personally if I were I wouldn't drop ridiculous coin on drivers, instead I'd focus on buying MLV, deadener, and so on. The best thing for any speaker system is to lower the noise floor of the vehicle. SDS recommendations are spot on, Don is a great guy. If you need clarification on what he states just ask.

Acoustic room mode modeling software options are around $20k. DIRAC is the most commonly used one, but between the spectrum analyzer, microphones and software expect to drop close to $80k. Perhaps more depending on what you really want to do. I am sure there are cheap shitty knock-offs, but again you are making a thread asking for something without explaining yourself. This doesn't help you and it doesn't help anyone else. Stop it. If you are just looking for some correction software you normally just buy hardware with a built in Audyssey processor.

topic removed. Chris, stop making useless threads that don't follow the noob guidelines. I sent you a warning. Heed it.

He has a W505 and therefore doesn't need the controller. The 505 is a way better controller than the rux anyways. I'd also highly recommend not using dynamat but instead shopping for deadener products here: http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I won't comment on the speaker locations until I know what car you have. Perhaps I missed it/forget it through the thread, but every car is different and a compromise. What do you feel you are able to do? I have a 2004 tahoe, probably should add that to my sig. So you don't recommend the h-701, do you think the dqxs is needed or should I get the alpine imprint system with the mic. I liked mjmorovi's set up, that was what I was hoping I could do since the kicks do not seem like they would work for me. Do you have any other suggestions of something that would work better. And if I put the mids in the dash, how far back. It is pretty deep, I would say almost 28-30 inches. I will have to measure that though. For the tweets, there are existing mounting positions from the stock tweets that are about the position that was suggested for me to use. Althogh,they do point forward towards the windshield about 30 degrees and slightly upwards. I didn't say to not get the H701, I said you don't need to buy the RUX to control it....your head unit can. Touchscreen crossovers FTMFW! How far back? Depends on what you choose for your compromise. The further back the less t/a you'll need but the more reflections you'll get to deal with. If you are doing mids in the dash, instead of the stock locations mount the tweeter right next to the mid. On top of it would be preferred, but again it depends a bit on location and such as well as your processing choice.

I do NOT want to add up the money I've spent in the past 3 weeks. Going to puke when I get the CC statement.

Put in 4 buckets and have a big ass center console running front to back, the airspace could expand under the seat too. Then you'd have space for bass.

cosmetic blemishes are about the only thing I can think of; so long as the previous owner took proper care of it, should be just fine In between that last email and now I went and picked it up, but I can return it up through Dec 31st. I figure I can watch prices and shit and see. But if anyone else hops up on refurbs please hollar. In this case I doubt it had a previous owner as the technology is <1yr available.

Any reason to not buy a Refurb video camera? I just put a Canon HF10 on hold for $499 at Nat'l Camera. This years version is a G and it only came out last October. HiDef Camcorder for the cheap?

Excuse me while I whip this out.

I have multiple DVI to HDMI converters, lol. I suppose I could take an analog into my receiver and kick out pure HDMI.

Computer is in the basement, TV in the kitchen. Separated only by the floor. I am using a 10' cable, but no I haven't tried as I'd have to carry the monitor (which is attached to the wall) downstairs. My laptop only has analog Do you have any other hdmi video source. BD player or cable box or somethin? Cable box also has DVI

Computer is in the basement, TV in the kitchen. Separated only by the floor. I am using a 10' cable, but no I haven't tried as I'd have to carry the monitor (which is attached to the wall) downstairs. My laptop only has analog

That's crazy! I do hate HDMI though. I avoid it on my moniter. I only use it for the HT because it's whats there. I know with my LCD's Sean that I have to randmoly wiggle the HDMI cables in the socket because it will loose signal somehow over time from my PS3 in the living room. I "need" the analog input for my TV connection. I don't feel like buying HDMI over Cat6 Baluns for the other rooms yet and R2 brought me some component repeater amplifiers so component output from my receiver in 1080i it is. That means that the HDMI input on the Hanns G has to be used for the PC. As soon as the Baluns become more affordable I will switch it since the Hanns is only 6' from my pc, but the cable output is 50' from some of hte TV's.

M2, does the Hanns G require you to do something in that I am not? I have my pc connected from the DVI to HDMI. When I shut the monitor off and then turn it back, if the computer isn't asleep and then turned on the monitor will claim there is no signal.

*tries to not drive to coastal