///M5

I can read, can you?

He has a W505 and therefore doesn't need the controller. The 505 is a way better controller than the rux anyways. I'd also highly recommend not using dynamat but instead shopping for deadener products here: http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi I won't comment on the speaker locations until I know what car you have. Perhaps I missed it/forget it through the thread, but every car is different and a compromise. What do you feel you are able to do?

This is getting absurd. Again without knowing what you are willing to do or your budget no one should be recommending you anything. For instance if you have $750 for paying someone to do the install and the components I'd allocate at least 2/3's of it to the install. If you are doing it yourself you can shave off the hourly's but you still need to budget for the appropriate deadening and such. A set of $500 is a complete waste of money if they are just bolted into the stock locations, a set of $750 ones would be even worse.

The connections can be fine, but a terminal cup never makes sense. Drill through terminals are okay. Of course there is no negative to just run it out the port.

You only have to bump when you don't share real information. For instance, what have you gone and listened to?

Almost as much as when the Pack loses.

I dont know what that diode bs is Danke!

Similar cars, in size that is.

WTF is that??? Fast

http://www.insideline.com/noble/m400/full-test-2007-noble-m400.html Some background.

It looked larger in the picture, maybe just the angle it was taken at. That is because the car is teeny.

They are 6.5's. Usually Blaupunk, well at least in the one I drove.

I fit in those really well too. Damnit. That GTS came in whacked. 2x my budget.

http://www.ieurocars.com/viewsingle.php?id=409&picid=1 Yummy.

Your first post is to a thread that over 2 years old?? WTF.

That isn't a downfiring problem but a box problem. You really should have at least 3" of clearance after excursion, yours obviously didn't even have enough for excursion. The BTL will be Fi's LOUDEST sub even if every sub only gets 1w.

If loud, then 6th.

Power isn't your problem, space is. 2cuft is rather easy in those trucks, but more can be had if necessary. How far are you willing to take it? The BL's will be louder. A single 12" BTL could be made to fit as well. Not sure what your beef with downfiring is, it would surely help to know.

Considering there is no standard for testing which then opens the door for biased testing practices I am personally not a fan of this as a gimic. I am not at all implying that Jacob would walk a funny line, but what he competes against surely would and having people buy something else based on a bullshit test sucks. I'd much rather see the money go into product development.

I purchased it in 1990 and used it in my car to turn on my amps. Been rolling around in a box now for years.

I just want handling, some reasonable acceleration, and the capability to tow. Add awd/4wd for Mt Everest, ie my driveway.

toop

can't really call it a truck

Not exactly the black I want, but 2nd best choice IMO for that car.

I've got an old Bosch relay and can't read shit on it. IIRC pin 30 is hot and switches to 87/87a when you apply a voltage to 85/86. Does this seem right? *yes I know I can test, but thought I'd double check first and test next* Using it for the BBQStoker