///M5

Perhaps reviewing all of your settings would be helpful, your description doesn't sound like the W18E's.

Great install and great gear. And unlike the first responder I'd like to know how you like the rest of the system

Spend the $250 on a single sub and be happy.

Not sure why that is important to you since if you are over 15 I highly doubt you can hear 18k. Your answer is none.

Not that this helps, nor do I have a solution but why the desire to have 3 drives look like one?

Perhaps stating your goals would help. Without any info you are just going to get subjective responses, personally I think SPL setups are useless so I'd vote the ICON. Believe me though the ICON can get ridiculously loud as well, in Mark's truck they had enough bass to curdle your cream.

Rap doesn't really go low, yes I know there are exceptions but most people who listen to rap don't really want a sub that plays low but one that exaggerates the bass notes. For that application ported is almost always best, I also don't think a Q is the right Fi sub for that application either.

Lol, hurry back to that shop.

Got crap faced last night myself...slowly feeling human again.

Start at 5khz+ on the tweet and 3.2k- on the woofer and work your way up and down playing with slopes. Set the gains on the mids, listen to them alone and then fade in the tweeters by blending the gain with your ears. Do so at moderate listening levels, then be nice and turn off the mids and turn up the tweets and see if they are struggling...they shouldn't even with a bunch of power with at least a 12dB slope at 4k+. DMM is fine as long as the amps you are using do rated power. Ears are better though. Install looks nice so far...don't be afraid to use some clay & deadening closer to your monster baffles (which I love btw).

Of course we get to look forward to Stuart Smalley here...

If hillary wins, I will have one of those. Or Obama-bin-laden as well. Scary shit the Dem's have lined up.

<-- knows nothing of wood lathe's What sort of bit do you use? I have a 6" metal lathe and have thought about turning some legs for a project or two...maybe I should just buy some aluminum stock http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=68...r=lathe%20tools Just not that expensive, a lot cheaper off of e-bay. Ah, cool Rocklers headquarters is right next to my old house.

I actually sort of like them ported, but either way the box needs to be too large for a car.

Quite frankly the rips on Rudy's experience I think are way out of place. He is truly the only one I have discussed methods of testing materials with on a website that has understood the real methods of doing such. Considering that I do acoustic and vibration testing for a living and have access to all of the equipment that anyone would really ever use for this sort of testing to both SAE and ASTM standards I was rather impressed with his knowledge of a not so straightforward science. I do agree that his test methods are home brewed, however, without an investment of at least a quarter million dollars you couldn't really do any better. Simulation inside a simplified environment is also regularly better as you are reducing variables to top it off ALL manufacturers start out with simpler methods than even he is using. Take it from someone has been inside a few different manufacturer's plants, Rudy has as much or more sophistication in his testing than they use. Lastly on his rips on FatMat, I hope they continue if they are justified. So far, to me the past has more than justified this response but I would also like to see that change. Hopefully Steve is earnest and will fix both the company and the product; however, he has a hell of a long ways to go before I am convinced. I look forward to both their responses and do hope that the personal portion defocuses and discussion continues in a direction pertaining only to the product & company at hand.

The sealed alignment can definitely play lower, your info is backwards. The ported box will be louder though. *assumes decently designed boxes

There were less than 300 posts total which is probably what i did this week.

It is by far easiest and cheapest to have a headunit that already has that control, off board processors will usually absorb a few hundred dollars or more.

I am not such a big fan of all the finish work...probably due to laziness more than anything though. We shall see now that I actually have some semblance of a work space.

That is how I feel about Japanese cars. Not sure there's any non-German cars I trust (and I certainly don't trust much from Mercedes-Benz). I already miss the days of only minor computer intervention in the car, this whole on integration thing scares me as I just see big repair bills and no benefits.

went to a home & garden tradeshow, ate some stellar Thai food, and the w is already asleep. (I kept her up last night pretty late and she needs her sleep). Alone time for me now either on the pc or finishing up some shit in the garage.

At least they are pissing off the French now, if the French join sides with us going after those dipshits the rest of W. Europe might follow. Not that France has any power over the rest of Europe, but they are the first to hate on us for militant acts.

<-- knows nothing of wood lathe's What sort of bit do you use? I have a 6" metal lathe and have thought about turning some legs for a project or two...maybe I should just buy some aluminum stock

That is how I feel about Japanese cars.

I didn't go to the link, but BA is one of the companies that will actually put things to correct their speakers instead of just some crossover components. Either way if you think active is wasteful you really don't quite understand what is actually in a crossover...trying to use a non-specific crossover to a driver and its mounting considerations is extremely wasteful. You will leave so much capability of the drivers on the table and have a bunch of money into something that doesn't work well. It would be sort of like trying to ride a snowboard using crosscountry ski bindings, sure you could do it but it doesn't help anything.