Everything posted by ///M5
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Welcome to the IHoP
Most boutique shops aren't exactly filled with the knowledge
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Welcome to the IHoP
Yes, I am curious as well. Be glad to make their SSA life a bit hard if you like.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I would suspect that a common problem with noobs going active is that they don't double check everything and go straight to wangage which if the tweeters aren't crossed conservatively will cause them a painful death. Having 175 on tap won't help that any. If you think they should be crossed at 2k intially set them at 6k and turn the freq down slowly. It isn't something I do now, but the first active installation I did (89) I had the mid and tweet outputs flipped and whacked my fosgate tweeters. I replaced them with some of the first Neo's from MTX which I still have, but mostly to laugh at. They have some top end sizzle though.
- Welcome to the IHoP
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Welcome to the IHoP
I was never little
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My idea of a sq setup...my first car audio setup ever...
If it leaks to outside that is actually a benefit, the inside leaks are easy to fix with some material and deadening. Either way you are WAY better off without anything in the rear. Are you going to list the components you are looking at?
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help ASAP
Um, you misunderstood my last post. Don't worry about what they did stock instead worry about what sounds best. Unless of course you are using this for a sub and taking both sides and running it into a sub amp. I have rarely met an installation where the standard phasing sounds best. Very rarely.
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Welcome to the IHoP
wow, talk about a niche market.
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Welcome to the IHoP
blurry indeed can't read American Bass even
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Welcome to the IHoP
Not really a whole lot of space left on that board, meaty stuff!
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help ASAP
Just a phase swap if they are backwards, just make sure to do both sides the same. After connecting it though you could then switch one of the two sides to see if it sounds better, and it might.
- Welcome to the IHoP
- Welcome to the IHoP
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Welcome to the IHoP
I think the manufacturers should include sub plans on the page. Stating 2cuft tuned to 32hz seems to confuse people. I suppose it may cost a few sales when people realize how big a ported enclosure really is, but having a translation would be logical.
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Big noob question about how they sound
Copied right from the sticky at the top of the Fi Technical section: Ported box we recommend using 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 28-33Hz (I personally think that a 32hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. So for 2, you should be in the realm of 4 cubic feet net with 48-64 sq inches of port. The port alone will take another 1.5cuft or so then you need to add bracing and some room for the drivers. This means you need near 6cuft of internal volume. (external this will be more like 7.5cuft and that is without a double baffle). Generically speaking assume you need 8cuft of space to run 2 12" Q's ported.
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Big noob question about how they sound
3 10's and 2 12's have nearly the same cone area, both more than a single 15.
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12" Icon brief review
Glad you like it. I would also recommend addressing the front stage and perhaps review your eq settings. Generically speaking there should be no boost only cuts (which of course defeats ye olde bass boost 100% and rightfully so). As for your box question, you could surely try to tune lower perhaps like 28hz or run sealed, but you will lose output with running sealed. I do think that you should address other things before changing your box and think you will find that you can "unlock" what you desire.
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My idea of a sq setup...my first car audio setup ever...
I agree with acidburn 100%. In particular if you are budget limited at all rears are completely stupid. Also do remember that if SQ is truly your goal you will have some installation work ahead of you. Lots of deadening, baffles, sealing off holes in the doors. It isn't hard, but it is time consuming and also really, really, really worth it. I must also say that I didn't click on all the links, but would have read through a list of components...
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help ASAP
06 impala I have no idea, why not just grab the wire near the speaker if it is just to test.
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High Wattage Passive Components
active > passive, chit tons of options for drivers as well. Any idea on what you are going to use for processing? oh, and btw
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Big noob question about how they sound
Q for you, but I don't understand why you are comparing 3 10's sealed with 2 12's ported? Why not port both enclosures? Or run both sealed? Considering you at all mentioned the word compete, I would port either setup.
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Need some advice please
I would do it just to get anything related to Ben Milne out of my car. SQ or not, the amp would be an upgrade in a lot of ways.
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18" BTL on fast-bass rock
I can see how you got defensive considering that you have bought all of your gear already. It also looks like you have the chops in the fab work portion to put it together, but perhaps starting the thread and outlining all of that first would have really helped. It wouldn't make us agree with what you are doing, but surely understand the question better. Most people who would ask that question know less than you do, but still you could have greatly benefited from some "consulting" before purchase. You have a burp only sub, mixed with a hell of a lot of drivers and it isn't going to be easy to get any sort of coherent anything out of it as a system. It has the potential to be loud though of course and will most definitely give you the look of speakers in your face.
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Welcome to the IHoP
*hears the beach boys in the background
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Welcome to the IHoP
lol. I don't know what you mean by group members or facebook.