///M5

2-2.5kHz would be a good recommendation. As with any driver, if you have more proc capabilities you can extend the range but up that high allows you to blend the driver with a ton of tweeters especially considering a little underlap is regularly beneficial.

Not sure, but they are yummy.

She's a beast. This is a lot of stuffing...

opposite for me. hard as hell to get up today

I was just giving you a hard time. Any recommendations on midbass drivers? Tons of choices, but it will depend on: budget space (size in depth and diameter) necessary frequency range power handling the tweeter/mid that it will be mated with And most importantly the install. <-- I can't say enough about this, it trumps all other factors in my book.

For a daily, I'd always brace.

tOp

No B&C?

The only bad thing you will read is that two owners here bought them and had some RCA noise problems right from the get go. Mine is super quiet, but the warning there is I would buy one from someplace you can return it to if you have that problem. You don't need anything special to use Network mode other than a couple extra channels of amplification since you will have to run your front stage active to use it.

94% is impressive no matter what the test.

Best bang for the buck headunit hands down IMO. The only way to really get better processing capabilities is to step up to a processor based system, but then you have to at least double your investment. I will point out that you lose a ton of functionality if you do not use the Network mode.

The difference between 1700 and 2100 is really not all that much when it comes to output, I would try a different enclosure first unless you are just chasing tenths on a meter. To the ear it won't make any difference hardly at all.

Do yourself a favor... go sealed and never look back! If you hear the RL-i's in a ported box, you'll love how smooth and clean they sound and will never want to go back to sealed. Goodbye trunk space! I like mine sealed better than ported, even though it is ported now. Definitely more output when ported but I have my t/a set to -12db on the sub so I probably don't need the extra.

Since you want SQ what is the front stage the sub will have to blend to?

And for your budget, you could really upgrade to something nicer than MTX.

lol you SQ guys.. oh im one of them kinda.. I'v been running it over in my mind to try the 10 in a sealed box in my dakota reg cab.. I will keep you posted on that.. I liked the 15's cant bring myself to cut the cab sorry Mark no (2) 15's ported for me.. No room for a ported box for the 10" on the smaller end of the spectrum ? Small ported and 10" is usually as big as a ported 12. Stupid long ports.

Nice work and Congratulations Adrian!!!

Mmm, 28hz.

ok, on the wires which end should I disconnect? Like is it safe to leave the + alt. attached and disconnect it from the + battery or should it be the other way around? and on the grounds, should I disconnect from the chassis or from the electrical source? Or should I just take the time to remove them all together? I'll just keep the volume down until my o-scope arrives to be safe -John Have to pull the source side (or the other) so in this case, the pos battery and pos alt.

Nice gear. Those Maggies would love to be further away from the wall though. *looks for wall treatments

Tuning requires your ear

Welcome to the world of brand X. WhenI upgraded the big 3 on my buddy's camaro, it wouldn't start. Disconnected the extra ground wire I ran and it started right up. Touched it to the alt, and the car died. I too can't say that I have had a very good experience with my truck. Either way before going any further test it by disconnecting your newly attached wires and see if the gauge starts working. As for the gains being off, if you don't hear distortion don't worry but do beware at higher volume to make sure you don't create issues.

Good Luck!!!

Do tell!

No. As with all fast food. Bad, bad, bad.