///M5

And remember, more than half the trainers train because they can't sell. He's an insecure pussy.

Make a negative a positive. Not the time to get upset with things yet. Don't want to sour the experience in the beginning, let that happen later. It's tough, but just use it as an experience to be "trained" on what NOT to do, versus to do. Take notes and resolve that internally. Otherwise it'll bog you down.

Clipping lights don't work. Neither do cheap oscilloscopes. Set your gain by ear.

Thanks Brad, I left out step one which is T/A. Of course, I cheat for that and actually measure time delay as it is pretty much the only non-subjective quantity in the setup. Really need to do this before listening in pairs of any sort.

I have a serious boner for the open architecture of the minidsp, but in general if you aren't familiar with processing it is A LOT to absorb

X2 I think I at least "need" a couple to play with.Agreed, I'm trying to decide between the minidsp and the 80prs.If you don't need the flexbility, dash controls >> computer.

Holy sandy vagina. Reread your own stupid thread. I am the only one that actually gave you a recommmendation. I help people all the time that don't have my goals. Hell pretty much no one on here has my goaslr Stop reading into things what you want to read and instead open your mind a bit. I was helping you with YOUR goals, not mine. I think the idea is absolutely fucking stupid. I FULLY understand your position and don't agree with any of it. My reference to doing it right was to help you maximize YOUR goals which I know has nothing to do with SQ.You really need to open your mind a bit, it'll help a ton. How do you intend to help me with my goals on a project you consider stupid? Don't reply to my stuff if you only intend to shoot it down in every aspect, I don't need that kind of input; I'm trying to have fun here, not deal with salty audiophiles who consider anything less a waste. You only point out flaws and fail to suggest any alternatives within reason. I am shit ass poor, so if you can't find a solution within that parameter, keep it to yourself. To your comment in response to my headphones weather resistance, durability is first priority over sound quality. What use is a nice sounding set if it's ruined?

Haven't had the hop slam yet. Funny since for years I was first in line for any new Bells. SO MANY good options today though

Yes. You fuse the wire to protect the car, not the amp.

You made me turn sigs on. Rofl.

Surly Hell

Umm, no one can design anything without a detailed drawing of what you currently have. Your boxes will get a lot smaller with a larger port as well. I am also curious how you plan to unglue your box...

Good luck retrofitting a slot. Normally not so easy to disassemble a box... External ports can be used of course.

I was not impressed with the MS8. Only way I could get it to approach decent sound was by disabling the auto tune (also happens to remove T/A, which sucks), and spending six months tweaking the settings. Ordered a minidsp, used the xo settings from the MS8 as a starting point, and after an hour everything sounded better--zero compromise. The auto tune on the MS8 in my install made the sound sterile, lifeless, and robbed me of my midbass. Tuning was an absolute bitching having to run through the setup wizard everytime you wanted to change a filter setting. Just my two cents. ever try the REW auto tune to compare against the ms8 auto tune? i'm guessing both are equally shit I have not--don't have a mic. REW works for sub bass. Much easier for that though. Any technique that doesn't use a maxima length sequence or impulse response with and custom time windowing is flawed at higher frequencies and will never work. Getting a cheap mic to maintain phase consistency and response that is good enough to do these measurements is far from trivial as well. I've been meaning to do a comparison with doing this with the mic that came with my Onkyo and then my Bruel & Kjaer measurement mic, but that sounds like effort for something I've already setup.

Stop reading into things what you want to read and instead open your mind a bit. I was helping you with YOUR goals, not mine. I think the idea is absolutely fucking stupid. I FULLY understand your position and don't agree with any of it. My reference to doing it right was to help you maximize YOUR goals which I know has nothing to do with SQ. You really need to open your mind a bit, it'll help a ton.

I never said there was a problem getting smoke, it just won't replace a "pit" if that is the flavor you are looking for. Personally the lip smacking goodness that it brings easily conquers what it lacks and I find it better in every way. The injector I was actually thinking of for more cold smoke products and potentially to do just a kickstart to see how it goes.

I'd start it 4 hours early. Will give you plenty o'time to stabilize. Once stabilized don't be afraid of adding more fuel. Also, expect a drop when you first put on the meat, but as long as you are developing smoke and keep the fire going that is fine. Meat only absorbs smoke when it is cold. The downfall of the egg for a smoker is that it is so efficient that you don't get a shit ton of smoke since it doesn't chow fuel. This means you need to maximize what you do give it if you want that smoky goodness. Enough so, I thought about building an external smoke generator for it, lol.

There is no su there is no such thing as a sub you can just "blast" and not worry about it

And I lost that much in depreciation too. Thing dropped like a rock

You should play some distorted test tones through your sub blindly. You will shock yourself

Ispent more than that on repairs on the silverado in 50k easy highway miles

Slot. If you are crafty a 12 can fit

Look at some cyclocross tires and then YouTube some races and see their conditions. You may need more side nubs for the loose shit hut that is why I asked

What do you mean by gravel & dirt?Generally speaking completely smooth tires have the most traction. Completely diffeent than cars. Although when you have really loose shit that changes. The trails here are in the woods and on fields. Dirt roads, lose dirt over solid dirt, lose gravel, even sand at some point. I'd say 50% of the surfaces are like in Seth's pictures. I wouldn't call the surfaces really lose. With my current tires, on off-camber sections I'm sliding down, downhill I don't have enough braking confidence (kool stops are the bomb) and uphill I have to stay seated for grip and on corners they don't give me any sense of security. Last week I ran into some muddy climbs and the rear slick was worthless. In the winter it was enough to get me by on straights but worthless on any sort of slope. I'm looking at this: and mire effort and slower. Outside of Mud I like a skinnier rear 2.1 tire should also be a bit softer on the bumps than a 1.75

The auto-eq sucks donkey dick. Makes things sound like ass. Not even good for a baseline IMO. In general all boost is bad. You should retune your sub with the boost off. Of course, as I said distortion = perceived volume so perhaps you like that.