hdrox88

I couldn't resist...

I couldn't resist...

Um, the rockford has something like 32 bands per channel, at 8 channels.

Everyone does have their own opinion, yes. But there is opinion and fact. It seems like you blur the line between them to tickle your own ears and solidify what you believe. I also own some JL products(second hand subs) and they are collecting dust. New, JL is overpriced(in my opinion). You can do much better for the price if you know what to look for. The only reason I would sell my xcons would be to cross over to the evil side. Edit: Sorry SpeakerBoy for getting off topic. Obvious consensus is that output will suffer by dropping that much cone area, no matter the sub if you are staying musical. Just need to figure out where and how much you want to compromise.

If only I had the funds for it... Looks like it's time to start saving!

Looks like I forgot to upload these pics when I finished the box.

Unless it does like 50% more than rated(which I would put money down that it does not), you would not notice any difference between it and another amp of similar power level. An extra 100 watts at that power level makes no difference. Finding a dyno rating would just be for personal piece of mind or "bragging rights", kinda like the birth sheets that some amplifiers come with.

This isn't quite right. Just having different sized batteries connected will not cause one to drain the other. Now if one of those batteries is really old/weak, regardless of size, it may bring the resting voltage of the newer/stronger battery down to its level. Also, having mixed chemistry batteries connected can have a similar effect. Meaning, if you had a flooded lead battery and an agm battery connected it wouldn't be ideal. I've personally done that one for a short period of time(less than a year) and noticed no major ill effects, though the agm would rest at the same lower voltage of the flooded battery when connected. After disconnecting the two, the agm bounced back to where it was before. Keep power and ground runs to the amps short as possible and make sure both connections are solid.

You have heard this and heard that. They say this and they say that. You seem to be taking it with a grain of salt, which is good with most big box companies marketing strategies. Something I have noticed after being on this site for a while is that the seasoned members don't spout crap and hearsay. The newer members that do, typically learn fast or don't last long and move on looking for someone else to confirm their idea/plan/belief/etc. Asking questions is how we learn, just don't get upset if you don't like the answer. Taking a few minutes to install winisd and enter driver parameters isn't exactly a time to jump for joy, but plugging in for different box specs afterward can teach you a lot. Enter you current box specs since you know how that sounds, then enter your new desired box specs and see what changes. More or less output? Peakier? Flatter? f3? You just want a ballpark guess? Yes, a bigger box will be louder. Now what did you just learn? Nothing. How do you even know I am right? I don't even know if I am right, but you wanted a ballpark guess. Help us to help you. You wont receive a spoon-feeding here, but you will probably learn something. I know I have.

I used to have the same outlook, until I went active. I'm not saying you have to go to an active setup to sound good, that's just when it happened for me. Just simply unhooking other speakers probably wont help you in your decision. Some more tuning will be in order.

Don't temp me. I decided on a finish for the box, failed miserably on the execution. It was supposed to be a dark grey hammered metal texture. I think it was too hot and it dried before it could separate to create the effect it was supposed to achieve. It came out a lighter grey and more of a gloss with a little orange peel to it. Oh well, at least it's not bare wood anymore.

I kinda figured welding in some bracing was in order. I just need to decide how far I want to go with this one. My Tahoe sounded excellent without much effort. This one is proving a little more difficult to get the response where I want it. Definitely loudest I've had so far though. Making me giggle every once in a while again. If I pull the headliner and brace the roof, I might as well just wall it. Oh dear, what am I getting myself into?!

No, I haven't tried that. Will have to see what I find. Anything in particular to pay attention to when doing so? Will probably start by placing towels and heavy weight on the roof to reduce it moving and see if that changes anything.

At lower volume it plays fairly flat. As I turn it up, there is a point where the roof starts flexing/resonating making it's own music and that is when the frequencies in the 20s don't get any louder while the rest of the sub bass frequencies will continue to increase as I turn the volume up. My back wall/window gets going as well when this happens. Hell, the panel of the bed next to the back wall of the cab flexes now too. Who buys multiple large subwoofers anyway?!

Well, curiosity got the better of me and I loaded up the xcons in the box to see how it sounded before I spend the time finishing the box. My roof is flexing bad, making terrible noises and killing mid to high 20hz notes. 20-21hz is fun, then it dies off til about 28hz and plays well up into the 60s. Anyone have any experience with the roof in these crew cab trucks? No sun roof either.

It's taking shape, I just need to figure out how I'm going to finish it. I wrapped the false floor today. Not an exact match to the factory carpet, but it looks tons better than the bare wood. I regret this tweeter placement. It looked good in my head, after actually doing it I'm less than pleased.

Finally got to work on the box. 8ft^3 @ 28.5hz with 130in^2 of port. I went a little lower with tuning as the response of the xcon in the crew cab is playing much higher than it did in the tahoe. I'm hoping to counter that and play down to the mid to low 20s well.

So I finally have these installed pretty much factory location in the doors of my silverado. I don't have a ton of play or tune time on them yet. So far they seem very detailed and clear. They can get splashy on some songs, though I kinda suspect some of my source material. Will see how things go as I listen and tune further.

Got everything playing finally. Zip tied everything in place before the console went back in place. I removed the duct in the console for the rear air so that it vents air into the console. Refrigerated amplifiers! Temporary bass setup so I can take my time with the box and stretch the legs of the fresh recone a little bit.

Made some progress today. Rear seats are out. Built a false floor and fitted the batteries.

Factory alternator and battery location will continue to run the factory systems for the truck. The Singer alternator is wired up and charging the battery in the secondary under hood location and will charge additional batteries and power the amps. Cold start

Replaced plugs and wires today. Also got the Singer in place.

I pulled the back seat to see how much space I have. I'm undecided if I'm going to leave it all out or cram it in place of the 60% bench and make a 3 seater out of it. I picked up a secondary battery tray.