Frostedflakejake

I'm no expert, but every thread I've personally read about this topic leads to very intellient people suggesting that the Poster (you) sticks the mid-range in the door, perferably in the kick panel and then seal every little hole in the door and use a sound deadening product like SoundDeadenerShowdown or Second Skin Audio in order to achieve good midbass! Do you want just a midwoofer and try to make that play great mid bass or are you interested in getting a mid and a deadicated mid-bass woofer? Are you thinking about tweeters? Do you want a component system? Most importantly, whats your ultimate goals? Do you want more on the loud side or more on the sound quality side? How much money and time are you willing to sacrifice? Im not trying to be mean but if i gave you advice without knowing the answers to those questions, i could be giving you advice that you don't care about!

i agree. his lyrics are horrible as well as his flow. But he is loud!! =]

Im surprised you're getting the second alt! I run a 260 iraggi, shuriken bt120 and a saz3000d and have no problem with low voltage! But then again i'm not into that competing stuff... I have no experience with either woofers but for some reason i just love the mayhem! its probably just the name..

I hope it ends up fitting! I bought subs in an enclosure once that i could have scowrn was going to fit, sure as hell it didn't!! Ha. I rolled around with 2 12's covering up the rear seats in my mustang for 4 months before i could sell them. i was SUPER cool. ha

oh well that's because you're now driving un-american!!

With or without Bose? Upgraded audio at all? From this website CLICK ME! it appears as if there is a standard, upgraded, and Bose stereo option. Edit for adding more usefull information Edit again for the WRONG link. not my day

You're pretty much gonna get people saying Pioneer, Kenwood, or Alpine. It sounds like you've already done a little research, have you been to a shop to check them out in person? You can probably get the cheapest price online but It's never a bad idea to go to a bestbuy or a local shop to check them all out in person. Ease or use and just the feel of a H/U can turn you off from some that you are highly considering.

Other things that are non-alcoholic do the same thing. Like Sprite for example. I love my slushy sprite

TireFryr is right about the gas mileage. Oddly enough my friend has an Eddie Baurer with the 5.0 liter and it comes with a digital MPG display. Overall he gets around 1-2 MPG worse than i do. However, i have larger and thus heavier off-road tires which really do kill my gas mileage by about 2 MPG. But its important to note that for 3rd gen explorers (and maybe even second gen) i have found that it is impossible to find a lift kit. Not too sure about the 2nd gen but if i can remember correctly, the models that the kits fitted ended in 94 (don't hold me too accountable for that). However, for a 3rd gen, i do know for a fact that you either go custom made, body lift, or maybe find a reallllly small company somewhere on the face of the earth that lifts them. Same would be for the Moutaineer as well.

Gotta toot my own horn on this one, 2002-2005 explorer! or a 2nd gen. After looking for a month or so, i found mine: 2004 Explorer with 24,000 miles for $10,000 out the door. Pretty good deal i think! A little better on gas would be the Explorer Sport, but they are hard to find in respectable condition.

Yay!! motivation to do work!

okay now i understand!!! Thanks 95 honda. you da man I'll do some trials next week and let you guys know the results! hopefully with some video camera action

I know right? Nice enough to make me question the Stinger! But i double checked them with a DMM and they are all right!

Just thought i'd throw in an update! I've been running my electrical system like this for the past 7 months or so now Stock Starting Battery Up front connected to iraggi alt using stock connections Shuriken in the back connected and fused to the PAC battery isolater using 0gauge and a 300amp fuse PAC battery isolater connected and fused to the iraggi alt using 0gauge and a 300amp fuse Battery grounded to frame in the back with 0 gauge Alt grounded to grame in the front with 0gauge Monitoring Voltage on the Shuriken with a Stinger volt meter. Amp is a Saz-3000d and sub is a 18 inch BTL So far, this set-up has worked flawlessly for me. While idling, my voltage is moslty around 14.2 and while driving its up to 14.4. I've seen it drop down to 13.9 once during loud music. Most of the time my voltage stays in the 14's! I'm very pleased to be able to post these numbers especially with the concern of the Shuriken and the battery isolater. Lets just hope the Shuriken holds up!

Alright! And doing this won't cause a short? I mean, without a resistor in, i'm basically just connecting the positive output of my amp to the negative output of my amp, right? How does that not create a short? Maybe i'm just nervous because that's why i had to get my saz-3000d fixed in the first place; i accidently caused a short of the speaker wires on the terminal box. thank-god Chris over at db-r is a nice chap.

Thanks 95 honda! But i'm slightly confused. If i'm trying to run 4volts to all my L.E.D.'s, and at the moment, a pure sin wave at 50 hz mades the amp output around 45 volts at the volume level that i choose as my max, isn't that not a whole lot of L.E.D.'s in series? I don't know much of anything about circuits but is it true that if i hooked one L.E.D. directly to the amp and cranked my volume up, it would get 45 volts, right? And if i hooked two up in series and then hooked that up the amp, both L.E.D.'s would get 22.5 volts, right? and if you follow that logic all the down, it would end up being about 11 L.E.D's in series directly connected to the amp in order for each L.E.D. to achieve 4 volts. Of course this is just an example because on music, the amp doesn't get to 45 volts at any comfortable listening level but you get the point. Why doesn't that work?

Ah man, i'm just screwing up a whole lot tonight. I watched the video and i didn't realize he was just jacking power from the amp for the turn on of the Interface. But i'm still confused on how and where i would hook up my L.E.D.'s to receive power. i think directly to the Music and flash Interface, Right? I'll probably shoot them an email about it as they are probably the only ones that know! Edit: threw in the e-mail bit

Thanks for all the input! And yeah cheese, the way it works up here at Michigan Tech is they try to postpone classes specific to a type of engineering as long as possible. Our first year is a engineering route that can be applied to any pretty much any engineering type so if we decide to change, it won't be a huge problem! So... yeah, I don't know much at all about electrical anything and i hope i didn't come off sounding like i did! so i figured a direct hook up to the amp would be a bad idea, I was just hoping it would be a good idea!! I've tested the LED's, so far all of them can take up to 4.2 volts and i haven't tested any higher. They are not 12v ready either, but i sure as hell wish i was. I bought them because they were 14.99 for 500 of them and so far they have all been working flawlessly! I've checked out oznium alot, but their raw products (the L.E.D. strips and such) are too expensive for me but it seems as if i may have to buy them anyways. But if i use the Music and flash interface it seems as if the L.E.D's will still basically be hooked up directly to the amp, right? Which would still cause a problem for me, right?

Cheese, i'm a first year EE student in my first semester of class. So no, i don't and quite frankly i don't think i should know it. I'm in school for EE so that i will learn how to do stuff like this. I don't even have any class that is EE specific right now. But thanks for the kind words!

holy cow! I didn't expect this to blow up so fast! Cheese - That's a good idea! But i already have a useless switch installed in my car that right now is connected to the front battery and then nothing else. So if i were to go the "switch on, switch off" route, i would already use the switch that's installed. CrazyKenKid - The led's run up to 4 volts. They turn on around 2.8 but are dim to the point of being useless. As far as i know, it shouldn't matter at all that the amp is outputing AC power and not DC. Voltage is the same but you may be onto something with the current... I tested this with my little stereo in my room and it worked fine untill the LED's blew. I figured it was because i sent too much voltage to them but it could have something to do with the current... or pretty much 100 different things. thanks a ton for the links man! Sefugi I think i'm going to go ahead and buy that Music Flash interface. Hopefully the 2amp rating is enough for 25 or so LED's and the rest will be connected via battery. After some internet searching, it looks likemost LED's have a current rating of 10 or 20 milliamps. I'm going to e-mail my LED supplier to make sure, although i don't expect an answer (purchased from Hong Kong seller on ebay). Thanks so much for the links!! Unless any of you guys can think of a reason NOT to buy that music and flash interface, i'm gonna buy one monday! Edit: Mis-read the oznium site.

So thanksgiving is coming soon which means no school for us who are still in it! Which for me means being bored out of my mind. I also just so happen to have 500 blue LED's handy. Out of all the things i could do with them, i decided to see what it would be like to put a bunch of them in the back of my explorer! For getting power to them, i was thinking about wiring them up in groups of series and then connecting them directly to the speaker wire input on the SAZ-3000d. Since i don't know nearly enough about that, i was curious as to whether that's a good idea or not (whether it will break something or not!). So the idea is that when the bass is really loud, the amp produces more voltage which i'll have the groups of LED's wired in series so that when the amp hits that voltage associated with loud bass, the LED's will light up! That's the general idea. I don't know the current draw of the LED's... i know for LED"s in general it's extremely low. But there will be around 480 led's back there.. So will this work at all? Essentially i'm daisy chaining groups of around 7 led's together and then running the positive and negative of those into the amp where the speaker wire plugs in. I also want this to happen while the speaker is hooked up to the amp as well. If this ends up being way too difficult then i'll just hook them up to the secondary battery with a on/off switch. I can solder, but i do not know how to make circuit boards. let me know if i need to input any more information. Thanks!

Im not worried about getting exactly "x amount of watts". I'm curious as to whether i'm sending a clipped signal to my BTL. It sounds good to my ear, but my ear doesn't necessarily know what a clipped signal sounds like. overall it seems as if i don't know enough information. Lets say i bought an oscope, how would i know what level my music is recorded at? Do i use music to set my oscope or sin waves?

To M5, I suppose I don't know enough about setting gains with the o-scope to answer that question (looks like you already knew that though! ha). I thought it was done very similar to the thread here about how to do it via DMM and bass tone. It was probably a dumb idea to assume that's how you do it.. but regardless, i used the tones provided by Shizzzon in his signature when i set my gain. If i use an o-scope, how would i set my gain?

Yes i am Julian. I'm a first year student. How the education works here at Michigan tech is that pretty much all engineering students have the same classes for the first two years. So for my first two years i don't have access to any major specific equipment. I only have access to the equipment in the Fundamentals engineering building. Equipment more complex and major specific (o-scopes, FPGA's, laser's, ect) i won't have access to for another year and a half! Regardless, at my early education, i don't have the ability to check out any equipment. So even if i could use the equipment, i would have to bring my truck do the 6th floor of my Electrical Energy Resource building....

watts 09- Then i'm at a loss. I thought that the general "rule" was that if you didn't trust your ears or didn't know what damaging sounds sounded like, use an o-scope. And another question: Does anybody know what the o-scope in that link can't do? (why is it so cheap?)