Ok, so I recently purchased a Dual 1 version of the Fi BL 15'' along with a custom box and a Kicker zx1500.1 I also bought a 5000 watt wiring kit by audiopipe. When i wired everything up, (as shown in the crudly drawn pics) it hardly works. When i turn it up to 18 (max volume is 34, and preffered volume is 26) it shuts off. but it doesn't stay off, if i turn the volume back down it comes right back on. and sometimes it will try to hit @ 18. and hits everyother beat. All in all it doesn't sound good ...at all. I want to know if i wired something wrong, or ...something... idk i just want it fixed!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v172/don...ringdiagram.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v172/don...rudedrawing.jpg

i tried it both ways, one w/ my comp speakers and one without, both did the same thing

does that amp have a clipping detector? my alpine pdx 4 100 did that i what i did to fix that was to pull the fuse for a hour so and the problem went away.

I don't think so, and this isn't the only amp that does it. my friend has a kenwood KAC-929 that i hooked up and it does the same thing, so im thinking its either a wiring problem or something wrong w/ the sub...or mismatched impedance or ... something...idk... it shouldn't be that i'm running out of power b/c i have a 160 amp alternator and my lights don't even dim...

a bad ground or a loose connection could cause this.

my amp turns off when i turn it up too loud because its drawing so much freaking power it turns off my deck. and voltage dips way way way down.

it did turn my deck off one time... and when it did it won't even turn on ne more

so do you think i'm running out of power? what do i need to do to fix that? a new batt under the hood?

It turned off your HU but does not dim the lights? I would check a couple things to see where the problem is. It could be low voltage everywhere or just at your amp...possibly a HU issue. I would put a meter on the amp and play it to see what kind of voltage it is getting. Then I would do the same check on your battery and see where it is at. You might even verify you are getting 12v in your remote wire from the HU when it cuts out. Is there a light on the amp, does it go out when it quits?

Double check the wiring, remember you need the whole loop to make it work. So for example if you lay big power cable from positive battery to amp, then you need a big ground to body from amp (not as big as power because it is shorter), but then if you use the body as the ground wire you need a bigger cable from the body to the battery to complete the loop....same deal with the big alternator it needs the full loop pos and ground to the battery. The big issue is that makes for more places a connection problem can develop also. Sometimes under high draw you can feel a poor connection get hot. DC has no problem melting stuff if it can.

Another battery is always good but seems like it should work on one with cables and big alternator? How fresh/large is the current battery? Is it bad? Usually then you will lose a lot of power with the car off compared to running. Don't mean to sound dumb, just trying to help....those are the things I would check first to track it down. Sometimes even brand new stuff does not work and makes it harder to find the fault.

Ok, so I recently purchased a Dual 1 version of the Fi BL 15'' along with a custom box and a Kicker zx1500.1

That amp is 2 ohm stable from what I understand. You have your sub wired + to + and - to -, which means your dual 1 sub is running at 1/2 an ohm on a 2ohm stable amp.

If you run a + wire from your amp to one terminal on the sub, and a - from the amp to the - terminal, then connect the remaining + and - terminal with a short piece of wire you'll be running that sub at 2 ohms, which is correct for that amp.

That should fix it for you, unless I'm misreading your sketch. Best of luck.

I think that below should give you an idea of what I mean. the > means connect those terminals with a short piece of wire.

_____

|amp |+ ------------ + Sub +>

|amp | - ------------ - Sub -

Edited July 26, 200718 yr by tejcurrent

Dual 1 ohm? Yes that would cause it to do things like that if its not rated for that load. Hook it up in series; into one coil then to the other and back to the amp like he said. I don't know anyone using one yet, didn't even think of it being dual 1 ohm.

Edited July 27, 200718 yr by sqguyib

wow that is a crude diagram

heres what it should look like

wow that is a crude diagram

heres what it should look like

Thank you, I forgot where a link to a good diagram was, and that was definitely basic

x3 on the .5ohm wiring as I'm sure your amp won't support that load and is going into protect. Wire it up in series for a 2ohm load per the diagram above.

lol that sucks hope its fixed now tho