Posted January 21, 200817 yr Here is a recent project I just finished. From what I've heard so far, the only thing I know of that sounds better is a Magnepan system which probably cost about 10 times as much as this did. We'll see once I can give it a major listen. I'm still a novice builder and I'm not really all that concerned with the finish at this point. Its just spray on lacquer that I got at Walmart. Its made of MDF. The internals were dead on what they were supposed to be. Its a pair of Dayton DC160-8 ohm 6.5" speakers and a Hi-Vi Tn28 tweeter being powered by a single channel on a Dayton APA 150. The second tower is yet to be started. The top of the box is warped somehow, although the internal port remains the exact height it is supposed to be. I have no clue why.... on to the pics. Also, I'll get response graphs up once I get to it.Test fit.Tweeter hole sucks, thats a jigsaw and monstrous hands for you.The base.Did some filling on the tweeter hole, then reaming to get it nice and round. Ended up being about a perfect tight fit for the tweeter. Edited January 21, 200817 yr by Duke
January 21, 200817 yr looks pretty sweet but why particle board? and what're you using for a crossover?
January 21, 200817 yr Author looks pretty sweet but why particle board? and what're you using for a crossover?The crap particle board was used because the entire box was made from scrap wood. I've actually got sheets of some better particle board which has alot higher density so the edges wouldn't look as "chippy"... maybe you have a better suggestion for what wood I should use? I hear birch ply is good... but nobody appears to carry it around here. As for the crossover, there is not one yet. I have the woofers paralleled together, then seriesed to the tweeter. If I find that I need a crossover, I do have some nice Linkwitz/Riley ones sitting around that I'll use. Hopefully the crossover point is above 3khz. I haven't yet noticed any distortion issues... thats at relatively low volume levels though. Man, that amp is awesome. Its barely a hair up and its plenty loud to hear anywhere in the room clearly.
January 21, 200817 yr Author I think that mdf is a good choice. I'd use ply if I oculd find some The best MDF I've ever used is stuff that they don't seem to carry all the time. It weighs 107 pounds a sheet and the cuts never look all chippy... especially with a 90 tooth blade.
January 21, 200817 yr You probably should cross the tweeter before you damage it with higher wattage.I second MDF as well. You don't have to use 3/4, you could use something thinner and then cover over it with a finishing board.
January 22, 200817 yr Or use something thicker Stuff comes thicker than 3/4"?????I don't like the fact that you used particle board, but I will give you props, the cuts look nice.You can get 1" MDF.
January 23, 200817 yr Author Or use something thicker Stuff comes thicker than 3/4"?????I don't like the fact that you used particle board, but I will give you props, the cuts look nice.You can get 1" MDF.The box was made from scrap wood from previous car audio projects. Would you have a suggestion as to what wood I should use for future HT projects? Like I've said, the look isn't all that of a concern right now, I'm more concerned with structural integrity, but nothing insanely expensive... just something that will do what it needs to.Also, some of the scraps were different types of particle boards. Some higher density, some alot lower. The stuff I have not is alot better, but I'll still look into actual wood. Edited January 23, 200817 yr by Duke
January 28, 200817 yr Author Last call for your opinions on the wood I should use... otherwise, starting the second tower with a fresh sheet of MDF.
January 28, 200817 yr Last call for your opinions on the wood I should use... otherwise, starting the second tower with a fresh sheet of MDF.For the $ MDF is the best substance. I would double the baffle as well and brace the enclosures as well.
January 31, 200817 yr If you want to get rid of the blotch looking finish when you paint it... Seal it with two-three coats of polyurethane (sanding in between coats and before primer), also understand shellac works excellent but I've never tried it. Then do two coats of primer and two coats of color. Its a cheap and easy way to get a very nice looking finish.
January 31, 200817 yr Author If you want to get rid of the blotch looking finish when you paint it... Seal it with two-three coats of polyurethane (sanding in between coats and before primer), also understand shellac works excellent but I've never tried it. Then do two coats of primer and two coats of color. Its a cheap and easy way to get a very nice looking finish.Thanks for all the positive comments guys. The second tower is going to look alot better considering I'm starting with fresh MDF and not 1 or 2 year old lower grade MDF thats been in a damp basement for too long. topgun, thats the best explanation of how to finish the box that I've gotten so far and I didn't even ask. Thanks man, but what grit should I use? I have from 36 grit all the way up to 2500. Also, for the primer and color, is stuff in a spray can ok to use or should I look into another method? By the way, I'm starting the second tower hopefully later today after job #2... although I won't be able to get the Dayton speakers for another week or a few probably. Still haven't gotten time to take a good response graph but thats on my list of things to do also. Good night... for 3 hours.
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