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Featured Replies

Posted

Hey all,

Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all.

Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL.

I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity.

I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF??

Does anybody have any idea what is going on?

Whats the box specs?

Tuning? Cubic foot?

Give us some details to better understand your setup to give us a better idea.. :neil:

  • Author

Well the sub is wired to 1 Ohm.

I have stock electrical besides an optima red top. I have a tsunami wiring kit 1/0awg. All in a 2000 accord coupe with the sub and port facing toward the cabin.

These are the builders specs.

Ok, here is the design for you. 14.5"H x 24"W x 24"D, 3.809^3ft gross vol. Slot port, 13" x 3" x 27.8"Long@35Hz. After all displacement, 2.833^3ft net yield. Built from 3/4" Hi-Composite Premium UDF board. Seams matched and double sealed. Reinforced baffle board. Dado cut end caps. Seams fastened with Tite Bond glue, 1-5/8" counter sunk drywall screws, and 2" Ribbed steel fasteners. Walls fully braced and tied in with Maranti Hardwood bracing for Zero wall flex and 100% cabinet integrity. 45 degree boards in the corners to kill standing sound waves and to add extra strength to the corner seams. All internal port edges are beveled. High Quality, Gold plated binding post with nylon heads. Gray Muzicon carpet. White baffle board. Port painted black

And this is NOT a TermLab so its not exactly term lab numbers, I think it runs a little high.

Hey all,

Today I just got my 12" BTL and my Crunch GP3000D along with my custom box and I installed everything today and to be honest I am not impressed with this subwoofer at all.

Like when the subwoofer hits, it sounds like it is bottoming out and I dont understand why. I use to have 2 12w6v2s to a JL 1000/1 and it was hitting WAY harder than my 12" BTL. I just met my friend who I sold my w6s to and he was running them to a Kenwood amp pushing 600rms to them and they were slamming compared to my BTL.

I just am not impressed with the performance of the BTL at all. It cannot pick up anything high at all. I know it is a SPL sub, but I have read tons and tons of peoples reviews saying that it actually had decent clarity.

I used my dB meter that I have and my best on the 12w6v2s was 147 no sound deadening whatsoever. Now I have my whole trunk competed in FatMat in 1 layer and 2 layer on my trunk. I did a test today and the best I got was 135 WTF??

Does anybody have any idea what is going on?

Maybe that you got a bad coil call scott and see whats up.

tiny port, I doubt that amp is doing any real power and you are not giving it enough current to even support over 2000 watts rms.

imo the box maybe too small.... and your prolly clippin tha chit out of that amp to be honest.. that sub is no joke... it need a real amp... with real power behind it.... that amp is far from 3000 watts.

and ur comparing 2 12w6's to one 12, 2 12's have more cone area, that amp doesnt push enough power i suggest running a sundown 3000d but better upgrade electrical this amp is no joke

Like everyone else has said, it sounds like an amp/tuning issue. I would look towards a different amp, or just try tweaking the one you have. If you give 2 12s the same power as 1 12, unless your enclosure is much better chances are you will lose output.

You really need a high output alternator/extra battery to electrically support the amp you need to be running. Hope it works out for you.

The box itself sounds ok from the specs you gave- not quite to spec but shouldn't cause much of a problem anyway. I'd pull the sub out and make sure nothing has come lose (wiring wise) and check your amp.

You have a 3000 watt rms amp with a stock electrical....you need to first address this issue. That amp is probably starving for power.

have you sealed off the cabin from the trunk??

Try facing the sub and port to the rear??

Also try flipping the box around to aim towards your trunk lid.

Unless things are sealed off you will have major cancellation..

  • Author

Well I got the box turned so the port and sub are facing the trunk and all I can say is WOW.

The sound is ten times better now. All of the notes are way more developed than before and all I can say at this point is thank you guys for the help.

I still need some tweaking and tuning but for now, everything is great!

Right now, im LOW on money because of college. This was definitely a budget build which is why I went with the equipment I did. Middle of may is when I will have a job for the summer and the first thing to come will be a 200 HO Iraggi Alt and BIG3 with 1/0awg. Then two kinetik HC2000s will be in store next.

Well I got the box turned so the port and sub are facing the trunk and all I can say is WOW.

The sound is ten times better now. All of the notes are way more developed than before and all I can say at this point is thank you guys for the help.

I still need some tweaking and tuning but for now, everything is great!

Right now, im LOW on money because of college. This was definitely a budget build which is why I went with the equipment I did. Middle of may is when I will have a job for the summer and the first thing to come will be a 200 HO Iraggi Alt and BIG3 with 1/0awg. Then two kinetik HC2000s will be in store next.

so safe to say you are impresses with a single woofer now?????

how does it compare to the JL's now?.. keep inmind that your still not pushing that sub thay way it should be

  • Author

Yea I definitely am impressed with this single woofer no doubt. Its just as loud as them for only having 1 cone area compared to two but it definitely will pierce your ears and drain the volts way quicker than the w6s ever would.

I really am excited for the way things have come along. Just got my bass boost mounted today and all the wires tucked and zip tied.

  • Author

Better, no. Different yes.

Its definitely a change from the w6s. Sound quality, there is no match against the w6s. The BTL cant exactly pick up those nice highs.

Dont get me wrong, I am definitely impressed with the BTL, its exactly what I wanted. Im definitely an SPL oriented listener and it definite produces those lows like I had hoped. I still definitely need a new alt and 2 bats to keep my volts up so for now I have to keep the bass boost at 1/4 in order to stay around 13.6 volts.

Better, no. Different yes.

Its definitely a change from the w6s. Sound quality, there is no match against the w6s. The BTL cant exactly pick up those nice highs.

Dont get me wrong, I am definitely impressed with the BTL, its exactly what I wanted. Im definitely an SPL oriented listener and it definite produces those lows like I had hoped. I still definitely need a new alt and 2 bats to keep my volts up so for now I have to keep the bass boost at 1/4 in order to stay around 13.6 volts.

well the btl is not made to pick up those notes... its made to wang long and hard on those lowlows. the w6 is more of a LSQ sub if there is such a thing, but you know what i mean.

your using your bass boot or your using your gemote gain? ... you should NEVER use your "bass boost".. thats just a clip waiting to happend.

Ramen Noodles What were we talking about a couple weeks ago?

Not firing the sub into the cabin or getting 2 SSds vs 1 BTL? Just wondering glad your impressed!!!

  • Author

Im using the small piece that came with the amplifier through crunch. It is connected through a flat cat5 looking cable that plugs into the amplifier. It ranges from 0-18db. I keep it at 0 for just daily and about half way to 3/4 if I was to slam for a few seconds...

Im hoping that is the remote gain.

Not really a good Idea to use that, going to mess up your voltage match-up.

yup yup... maxxonics does that and im not sure why.. but when you got that amp it should have stated inside the manual DO NOT USE THIS AS A REMOTE GAIN... maxxonics the mother company of goliath and chrunch and auto tek.. what else mb quart i think.. anyway, the most input the amps can take is 9.... im reading it right now from my goliath manual.

that was one of my first questions to jacob when i got my very own SD 3000d... was if the knob was a input adjustment or a remote gain...

  • Author
yup yup... maxxonics does that and im not sure why.. but when you got that amp it should have stated inside the manual DO NOT USE THIS AS A REMOTE GAIN... maxxonics the mother company of goliath and chrunch and auto tek.. what else mb quart i think.. anyway, the most input the amps can take is 9.... im reading it right now from my goliath manual.

that was one of my first questions to jacob when i got my very own SD 3000d... was if the knob was a input adjustment or a remote gain...

Ah so I will definitely lay off of that for now on.

Any idea how my gains etc should be set? I will be at a show in parkville, MD so hopefully someone there can maybe help me tune it.

Gains should be set with an Oscope if you don't have "tuned ears".

Your comments on the w6 hitting "high" notes is really, really amusing. Not at all the intent of that sub. :(

I think you are leaving a TON on the table with your current setup and should review your whole install. Doing things your way instead of the right way isn't going to help :(

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