May 31, 200916 yr Author OK guys, got some more anyway.If you remember the design i posted of how it should look when it's done, well i still wanted to get some more done today so i did!This wall has an extra chamber in the back of it for a lot more added volume. So, i built that chamber today to save some time.There will be a lot of bracing goin on in there.All-thread, steel maybe... oh and about the corners... You guys like 45s right? Well, i'm not gonna do 45s... I have had an idea on a corner design and i'm gonna attempt it with this new design. Rounded corners, very smooth material used... contact cement to hold it in place... heavily sealed around... i'll let the pics do the talkin when i get to that stage.. I'll keep it hush hush for right now
May 31, 200916 yr Author Got the bracing done for the rear chamber just now.I will go back later and lay down Liquid Nails and Silicone II around all the seams but i finally did get all the bracing done. I have to round those corners before i seal everything up and that's the secret you guys have been waitin to see... and me too, hehe.Here are some pics of the bracing-That is 3\16" steel and 3\4" all-thread held in by Lock washers and Nylon Poly lock NutsHad to use a crescent wrench, an elongated wrench and a pipe wrench to properly tighten these nuts.But once they are tightened... WOW, this whole chamber is rock solid right now. If i blow on it, it will shatter, hehe
May 31, 200916 yr Author You guys want to see the rounded corners???Well, i'm about to apply the last corner tonight then take some pics of them.I will be rounding the upper corners as well but can't right now because i would have to build more of the box before that happens.Pics in just a few minutes so stay tuned!
June 1, 200916 yr Author pretty cool arent they?i had some of this material left over from a bathtub install kit.if i run out of this stuff, i hope i can find some more or something equivalent.i was originally gonna do Formica but after i cut the width down to 10", it became almost completely stiff, no more flex in it so i discarded that idea.i wanted somethin stiff yet flexible enough and very slick feeling. that is exactly what this material is and it's great.it's held onto the wood using contact cement, 2 coats worth.and that 3/4" all-thread is no joke!just running from side to side for that rear chamber strengthened the top and back wall even more!
June 3, 200916 yr Author There will be some more pics of the enclosure being assembled soon, probably this weekend so this build log will resume this weekend.Some other things to know-The DC 15s are commin this weekend as well so i'll have 1,000 pics of those, lolThe graphic that was posted a while back showing 6 runs of allthread is gonna be changed.After previously using all-thread and seeing how strong it is, i am downing the usage of all-thread runs from side to side from 6 to 2 runs.The steel bar bracing on the sides will also be removed as it will not be necessary!3/4" all-thread is hella strong, lot stronger than i thought.There will be a slight delay coming soon as well as predicted. The front baffle has yet to be cut and painted and this will cause a 3day delay once i get to it.I am trying to get everything done by June 13th... this is the goal.At the moment... it doesnt look like i'll make it, lol, but i'm tryin.
June 4, 200916 yr Author another delay...Got a check engine light on the car out of the blue today so gotta go take it and have it diagnosed and see what's wrong.During this whole time, i was suppose to install the side walls... There is another problem with the HVAC controls as well so they might keep my car.. wont know til later on tomorrow.
June 6, 200916 yr Author OK, got everything workin again on the car.Dealership ordered a replacement module for the HVAC controls and the check engine light was due to pressure being escaped out of the gas tank... The gas cap was on properly but somehow it was still leaking air out of it.. They re-tightened it and it cleared it.Fedex just stopped by to show u guys this-
June 7, 200916 yr Author Some more pics for u guysThanks To AutoCAD, look how close i got to the side of the car without it causing a problem.
June 8, 200916 yr Author they should be here within the next 2 weeks or so.Here is some more pics for ya guys-So you wanna know how to brace an enclosure with 4 15s? Here's one way-The 2x4s are not secured to the box yet until i put the subs in so they will be lose for a while but this is how it will look when complete, of course the back is still not put on yet but you get the idea-The orange is fluorescent paint. It looks rather splattered on there right now but once the subs are mounted to the baffle and it's nighttime, that orange will be the only thing you wil see and will be VERY bright at night.
June 8, 200916 yr Author I hope so!I had to stop working today due to pain...I am using Nylon polylock nuts on the outside of the box on the all-thread so once they are on, they arent coming off.Well, i can't get a socket wrench back there so i have to use a pipe wrench to hold the allthread steady, a crescent wrench to hold the inside nut from turnin and another crescent wrench to turn the nylon polylock nut 1\4 turn at a time. I don't know if u have ever tried tightening one of these nuts before but once the nylon hits the threads, it's like tryin to tighten something that's already tightened. The only problem is... this is the stage where you start tightening, hehe.I spent 42 minutes tryin to finish tightening this one nut and still am not done. I had to stop because i got work tomorrow and it's labor intensive and i dont want to hurt myself the day prior to work.It's gonna be hella hot here tomorrow so i'm definitely not workin on it tomorrow but hopefully tuesday. Once i get that nut, the other side nut(which i'm dreading), i just have a couple quick tight jerks on the 2 inside nuts, then i go and start sealing everything up in that area real good! This will also be the time where i install the other corner pieces i am using. This takes 3 days of cure time to complete so once i get the corners in place... i move to the rear of the box and finish installing that while the corners are curing.I am honestly almost done building this design. What's gonna take some time is waiting for my amp to come in and making a new floor covering for the hatchback area and redesign it so it will safely hold my 2 batteries and 3 amps in the rear... Oh and run my 60+ft of 8awg speaker wire. I'm dreading that too, hehe.I'm hopin that by the end of this coming weekend, this thing should be put together. Maybe not 100% complete done but the box complete.
June 10, 200916 yr Author didnt get much done because i am\will be very busy the rest of the week but i did get something done.I got the Baffle mounted today, Yay!!!I used a whole caulking tube of Liquid Nails in under 20 minutes.... well 60% of the tube anyways. I had already used some previously. I ran out so i gotta pick some more up tomorrow.I have to fill in a couple small gaps, then make my "special" rounded corners, four more of those, seal the entire front part of this box up real good.. then get ready to run over 50ft of 8awg wire for the speaker wire coming soon.Once that's ran, the 2x4s will then be aligned and tightened and thread-locked into place.Once this is done.. the next BIG thing is attaching the rear chamber to the front chamber and securing it to the car in one process... yes this will be fun in a bad way,
June 13, 200916 yr Author been runnin into some complications with the build but finally fixed them a few minutes ago so i should be back on track.I was suppose to have the box completely built by tomorrow... that "may" happen but i doubt it. I'm lookin more like monday or tuesday now.After it's built, allow a couple more days for my corner pieces to completely cure before i start throwing the subs in the baffle.
June 14, 200916 yr Author well what happened was when i designed this setup in AutoCAD, it was suppose to be for 28" deep. At the time, it "appeared" that i had room to extend it to 30" deep but i never drew it out on AutoCAD, i just assumed it. Well, i had went ahead and cut all the pieces assuming that 30" deep would work... well it didnt.I couldnt shut the hatchdoor, hehe.So, after 2 days worth of trimming and modifying the underside of the design, i am finally able to get it to fit in the car with the door shut...The design is 1\8" of an inch from touching the rear hatch glass. I'm gonna be taking some luxury liner pro and gluing it onto the back of the wall so the glass has something nice, soft but firm to rest on if any vibrations come off of that back side.I dont know if u read but i am gonna me making my own copper all-thread rods soon if i dont find any copper bolts in town.I'm gonne be stoppin by some electric shops tomorrow and tuesday to see if i can find copper everything... preferably pure silver but i doubt i'll get that lucky.
June 16, 200916 yr Author Ok, i got the speaker wire problem solved.I kept goin through drill bits by the 1\32" til i found one that was just the right size to have to physically force the wire through the hole. So, i will be passing the wire straight through the back of the box then sealing it off on both sides so no resistance on that part.Next, i just got done running sealant over everything. I'm gonna let it dry through tomorrow.It's suppose to be raining here all week but on and off...If i find time tomorrow where it isn't raining, i may have some more updated pics... If not, whenever it stops raining is when i'll progress further.The box is almost done guys. Once it's done, i just gotta drill out all the holes for the wire, run them, mount the subs, then move onto the rear where i must think of a design in the back for all the amps n batts and build that next.After that, gotta seal off the baffle from the rest of the car and then.... I gotta run the interior lights for the fluorescent paint and for the amps.Not much farther..Here is a pic of the wire i'll be using as speaker wire.That's 3\4" all-thread by the way-
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