Babies are convenient for their 3-4 hour to eat timing

But not as yummy.

What sort of wood are you using"?

MDR-V6's bit the dust today. C'est la vie. Sennheiser HD205 II's should be here by the end of next week. Picked up one of their headphone holders too.

jb welded my radiator went bout 3 days and sprung another leak in a diff part

smh well guess i'll buy a new one

What sort of wood are you using"?

The ribs were super good and they were St. Louis style. As for wood I was using a Pecan wood chips.

Gave me the energy to finish up my siding project. Start the back porch tomorrow.

jb welded my radiator went bout 3 days and sprung another leak in a diff part

smh well guess i'll buy a new one

Plastic tank crack?

jb welded my radiator went bout 3 days and sprung another leak in a diff part

smh well guess i'll buy a new one

Plastic tank crack?

yup, had planned on plastic welding, but changed my mind.

looked at it today and the jb weld cracked

Nope, time for a new one. If it cracks in one place, its shot.

it would be so much better if u could just buy the plastic pieces instead of the whole dam thing.

i have never had luck with jb weld nor locktite 5min heavy duty epoxy...

It may partly be because of the cleanliness of the surface i was using but i gotta tell ya...

US Composites Fasco 110 makes for one helluva strong bond and can handle up to 300F.

I don't know if they would recommend using it on something like radiator because i do not knwo what all it is resistant to but they have many fillers they sell that can be mixed in with their epoxy resin.

Not sayin try it now but for future reference, i'm sold on their products.

what store carries it?

is it a gm? fucking dex-cool...

what store carries it?

u order direct from them..

IF i were you, i'd either do plenty of research on their site or call them unless you know exactly what u are planning on buying.

US Composites

is it a gm? fucking dex-cool...

ford/linc navi

200$

Might start a little speaker mounting project tomorrow morning...

So I finished the project, but was in a rush and didn't get pics. now I'm 2 hours away. I'll get my parents to snag some pics tomorrow.

But but if you want to gouge your customers and make money with parts

Felt great all day but fuck me, my hip and one finger is on fire

Reduced to now sleeping in my chair, AGAIN

I'd use a tweeter with that setup.

im not familiar with many tweeters, but he prefers soft dome.

so we're looking at like 200 shipped for the mids alone, still worth it versus a cheaper midbass and fullrange combo?

im a little concerned with the $1k budget.

hu 200

amps 100

deadening 100? have to email sds yet

(this is where im surprised at costs)

wiring/all install shit - total- 250

• hu harness + dash kit 20
  
• ipod 15
  
• power/gnd wire 55
  
• rca + speaker wire 25
  
• mdf + wood glue 40
  
• fg + bondo cheap shit 30
  
• voltage meter 25
  
• distro block + inline fuse 15
  
• carpeting + spray paint 25
  

350 left for subs and speakers

could i get another 100 - 150 bucks out of him, sure but where should i invest it?

he really likes the icon, out what i've showed him. knowing my brother he would spend more to get the sub that looks nicer.

The problem you have is the pods are built, but not for anything optimal. The mid/tweet could share an active channel and just passively cross the two separate, but everything is a compromise. If the pods weren't built I'd go about it differently.

oh geez i think i forgot to mention something haha, those pics where from someone else's build. the reason i was using them was as a reference since its the same car, and because you've (m5) heard the car.here is a link to the build log, its from 2007 so its been a while, sorry for the confusion.

I bought the drivers for Scott's car, lol, but he had tweeters. Full rangers without I really would prefer up above the dash.

agreed, the fountek should be great in the A-pillar. and they have a relatively low mounting depth compared to some other drivers, which should allow me to keep the pods smaller and less obtrusive.

still on the fence with kicks vs doors for midbass..

there isn't carpet behind the stock plastic kick panel so the midbass would be vented out (no idea where to, firewall perhaps?). i could seal up the kicks as well i guess. also, i wont have to deaden the doors as much.

i remember reading about how it is better to get the midbass as wide as possible for the best staging. is this true?

doors are limited by a 3.25" mounting depth.

Well, I passed all my exams.

My diploma project is working, albeit with input from a tone generator instead of a microphone.

Time to write the literature for the project and find a microphone and a pre-amp so I can prove it works right.

If all goes well, In 2 weeks time I will be FREE

it would be so much better if u could just buy the plastic pieces instead of the whole dam thing.

You can buy them. Do a Google search and you should be able to find them, but your best bet is to find a local radiator shop. Many times they will replace them with aftermarket aluminum ends instead. Do not use any type of adhesive or epoxy. It will never work due to the expansion and contraction from the countless heat cycles.

Good luck Adrian!

Thank you !

Considering you can buy the cheapest version of that radiator for 145$ off of rockauto, the labor and parts cost for fixing the old one will probably exceed that, and you still have to do all the work I'd just go ahead and put a brand new one in.