Adrian, do you have any plans on making 4" or 6" aeros?

I also heard on Bob and Tom the other day that "designers" suggest to never wash your jeans. WTF? !

Yeah, I read the same on some place. They compared a washed pair and one worn for months. Level of filth was like the same.

It's good to get rid of the smell tho.

I'm wearing my jeans less and less. Sweatpants ftw.

Adrian, do you have any plans on making 4" or 6" aeros?

I have molds for 6" but they are for euro-spec pipe.

So far I have only sent 2 pairs of 8's and that was a trade for the welding mask. With that amount of demand it's not worth the work put into a mold

Heck, I never sold a single 6" flare in Europe. Hard to beat PSP prices..

I can measure and send you the ID and OD for the 6". I think I have 1 pair ready if you can find correct pipe.

Just trying to save my ass some time. I'll be molding the vents from foam, so I will be able to attach the flare any way I want. I would just prefer to have some glass to laminate to versus ABS.

You'll have the 6" specs tomorrow

I also heard on Bob and Tom the other day that "designers" suggest to never wash your jeans. WTF? !

Raw denim is the newest trend.

Why spend $150 on ripped, faded, and worn designer jeans when you can make your own—by not washing them for six months? That's the thought process behind lovers of "raw denim," who wear the same pair over and over and over again, even sleeping in them. "You wear the raw denim in, as much as you can, so that it starts taking on your body shape," said Darryl de Necker, who wore one pair for 22 months with only two washes.

Raw denim isn't what you buy at the Gap—it hasn't been washed before hitting shelves, so it's stiff and covered in indigo dye that rubs off over time, leaving creases to show where your knees bend, or around where your iPhone lives in your pocket, reports Aol News. Which leads to the all-important individuality of the pants. "All the marks on them after two or so years are your own. Not like a pair of treated denim you buy in a store that looks the same as everyone else's, but your own." Want to try it? Levi's sells raw denim 501s for $37 ... or you could fork over $260 for Jean Shop's pair.

And as was posted above, denim appears to be a fairly strong antibacterial/antimicrobial agent.

A University of Alberta student didn't wash a pair of skinny jeans for 15 months and science says the fashion trend is safe, but maybe a tad smelly.

Josh Le wore the same pair of jeans to break in the raw denim, so it would wrap the contours of his body, leaving distinct wear lines.

He had his textile professor test the jeans for bacteria before washing them for the first time.

The results showed high counts of five different kinds of bacteria, but nothing in the range of being considered a health hazard.

Raw denim is not washed or treated when it is manufactured.

A current trend is to wear the dark indigo jeans without washing them to allow the indigo to wear out in the fabric.

After the jeans are washed, they leave a unique pattern based on their owner's body.

Le said some friends were "grossed out" by his experiment, but others thought it was interesting.

"Some people really liked it, but some people were completely grossed out by it," he told The Canadian Press. "I was able to meet a lot more people and have a lot of good conversations. It was like, 'hey, nice jeans."'

When his jeans got a bit funky smelling, Le's solution was to put them in the freezer.

"There were times when it had a bad odour, like in the seventh month," he said. "That's when I threw it in the freezer and magically when it came out it was odourless."

UNFUCKING REAL.... I just got off work after tatting 11 hrs solid and my stupid wife is pissed bc I didn't call her to let her know I would be late. UNFUCKING REAL. How the fuck can I waste 3/4's of my life working to support a family and be in the wrong? UNFUCKING REAL.

making that type of phone call takes 30 seconds or less

Oh... What could this be? The amazing DD-1?... Gut pics?

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part.

edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

drove afew miles, no change.

what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different...

assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug?

i figure i could start by replacing the plug first.

http://troubleshootm...kp_sensor_1.php

This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor.

As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.

thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that.

ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens.

edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car.

You still haven't said what yr of car either?

haha my bad. thought it was in this mess somewhere. its a 2000.

something of an update.

met up with a friend of mine and hooked his scan tool up. im not sure what exactly its called but his scan tool can monitor whether or not a cylinder is misfiring and count the number of times it misses. there is actually only one cylinder misfiring (strange, considering the code is for a random cylinder misfire).

my plan now is to rule out the spark plug boot and coil pack.

im still unsure about cam sensor. if the new plug boot doesn't fix it i'll run the test roadtatts linked. (test voltage/signal at the sensor)

if that fails i will swap front and rear coil packs (bank of 3 packs) and retest them on the scan tool next weekend.

and if that fails, fuck it!

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

How the hell are you using tape to mount anything? I can see using pipe strap, but tape? I'm lost.

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

I'll upload a couple pics in a minute.

I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports.

I used three strips of plumbers tape, bottom, top, inner side. I drilled a hole through the fiberglass base, and a little bit into the baffle, then I ran a drywall screw from the bottom of the fiberglass base up through a hole in the plumbers tape, and a screw through another hole on the plumbers tape into the baffle. Since the screw is coming from the wrong side it doesn't get tight, has a little play, but your able to bend and twist the baffle into any position.Once I found what I liked, I pulled it out, hot glued dowels in, and remove plumbers tape that was in the way. I should remove the rest so it doesn't rattle when the speakers are installed.

I haven't decided if I'm just going to wrap the fabric over everything as normal, or fill with expanding foam, sand to shape, and glass. Like this:

(bobwires audio)

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

I'll upload a couple pics in a minute.

I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports.

Damn thats pretty awesome man

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

I'll upload a couple pics in a minute.

I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports.

Damn thats pretty awesome man

It was a bit confusing to write up at time, specifically getting the tuning right since it changes as the enclosure changes from the port displacement.

Finished fiberglassing the base for kicks, used plumbers tape to mount the baffle, once I tweaked it to where it fit well I just added wood dowels then took the plumbers tape off. It was so easy.

im definitely trying some plumbers tape when i redo my kicks. fuck dowels..

I'll upload a couple pics in a minute.

I'm also almost done with a script for calculating port length for tuning, while accounting for port displacement. Works on slots, circular ports, and aero ports.

Damn thats pretty awesome man

It was a bit confusing to write up at time, specifically getting the tuning right since it changes as the enclosure changes from the port displacement.

Thats what i was thinking, good job figuring it out

So that calc is going to be the first to do that?

So that calc is going to be the first to do that?

I don't know how many online calculators do it, but I'm sure any decent programs for building enclosures does it, at least it should.

For those who build boxes, would the above be stronger if the red colored panels were in between the green colored panels?

For those who build boxes, would the above be stronger if the red colored panels were in between the green colored panels?

imo it depends how the box is going to sit.

I like to do it where gravity is pushing down on a solid piece, such as the way you have it drawn if its upright

For those who build boxes, would the above be stronger if the red colored panels were in between the green colored panels?

imo it depends how the box is going to sit.

I like to do it where gravity is pushing down on a solid piece, such as the way you have it drawn if its upright

Well the side with the multiple baffles is for the driver mounting, whether that's facing up, down, back, etc, I believe is immaterial.