what is an acceptable amount of voltage drop? stock alt and battery, 0 gauge to amp, and big 3 done (grounds are 2 awg, and alt to battery is a double run of 2 awg).

Better question is what is an acceptable lower voltage

What drop do you have and what are you using to measure it? (curious on the frequency response of the device and how fast it changes/drops)

i shouldn't post at 4 am. your right, that is what i ment to ask. monitoring the voltage with a stinger voltmeter. however, i just assumed it's response is fast enough for an accurate reading .

the voltage drop im getting varies by song, etc. this car's (04 sentra) idle must be pretty terrible, for example the AC powering ON drops the voltage to about 12.8v (according to the voltmeter). turning the head lights on causes a similar drop..

As long as you are within the safe operating specification of your amplifier and it doesn't affect the output such that it clips and causes you to exceed the average power the drivers can take you are fine. The second is pretty unlikely with the rail sliding down with the supply, but staying in the operation levels of the amp is necessary.

And no way, no how is the Stinger fast enough to see transients. Piece of useless shit IMO. Of course when you are pushing the limits like you are something similar is needed for setup and then a piece of shit is okay.

Mysql could probably handle it better then excel, and you can run it locally on the computer but access it on any other comp on the network.

That's what I'm thinking and it will be far easier to do operations on the data.

what is an acceptable amount of voltage drop? stock alt and battery, 0 gauge to amp, and big 3 done (grounds are 2 awg, and alt to battery is a double run of 2 awg).

Better question is what is an acceptable lower voltage

What drop do you have and what are you using to measure it? (curious on the frequency response of the device and how fast it changes/drops)

i shouldn't post at 4 am. your right, that is what i ment to ask. monitoring the voltage with a stinger voltmeter. however, i just assumed it's response is fast enough for an accurate reading .

the voltage drop im getting varies by song, etc. this car's (04 sentra) idle must be pretty terrible, for example the AC powering ON drops the voltage to about 12.8v (according to the voltmeter). turning the head lights on causes a similar drop..

As long as you are within the safe operating specification of your amplifier and it doesn't affect the output such that it clips and causes you to exceed the average power the drivers can take you are fine. The second is pretty unlikely with the rail sliding down with the supply, but staying in the operation levels of the amp is necessary.

And no way, no how is the Stinger fast enough to see transients. Piece of useless shit IMO. Of course when you are pushing the limits like you are something similar is needed for setup and then a piece of shit is okay.

thanks, for now i have things set up to prevent my bro from breaking anything. later i might see how far i can push it..

Then you are golden

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense.

Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop.

Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . .

I haven't used Google+ because i can't get laid on it, not because I gave up on you mr aaron

Sorry, I am not into you that way. But there are a handful of us that chat on there via cell phone.

Is that what that huddle business is? I've been invited to a few and have no clue what they are

I have no idea what any of it is. I don't care either. I am on the verge of disconnecting and going back to simpler times.

Fast Five - dumb ass movie.

I'm gonna move the hills of WV and make some moonshine with the Appalachian hillbillies.

Fast Five - dumb ass movie.

As opposed to the others. . .

I know it's a "movie", but at least they could like... obey the laws of physics and what not.

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense.

Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop.

Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . .

That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say.

Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption.

I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally.

I haven't used Google+ because i can't get laid on it, not because I gave up on you mr aaron

Sorry, I am not into you that way. But there are a handful of us that chat on there via cell phone.

Is that what that huddle business is? I've been invited to a few and have no clue what they are

Yes.

I haven't used Google+ because i can't get laid on it, not because I gave up on you mr aaron

Sorry, I am not into you that way. But there are a handful of us that chat on there via cell phone.

Is that what that huddle business is? I've been invited to a few and have no clue what they are

Yes.

You've got to have a phone with the app on it to use it right? Because I clicked the link and it just takes me to the mobile site

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense.

Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop.

Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . .

That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say.

Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption.

I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally.

I am just reverting back to my blower and turbo car experience. You always use more fuel with the cylinders pressurized. You have to. I know it may not be a concern to you, and might be the easy way with the blower, but I think for reliability's sake and savings, keeping it atmospheric will be best. You're going to be dealing with a cooler/denser air charge as well, so that will only help.

I have no idea what any of it is. I don't care either. I am on the verge of disconnecting and going back to simpler times.

You're better off not knowing. Facebook is a serious pita

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense.

Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop.

Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . .

That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say.

Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption.

I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally.

I am just reverting back to my blower and turbo car experience. You always use more fuel with the cylinders pressurized. You have to. I know it may not be a concern to you, and might be the easy way with the blower, but I think for reliability's sake and savings, keeping it atmospheric will be best. You're going to be dealing with a cooler/denser air charge as well, so that will only help.

I have always been under the assumption that low pressure forced induction allows better efficiency as less fuel is wasted. No?

I have no idea what any of it is. I don't care either. I am on the verge of disconnecting and going back to simpler times.

You're better off not knowing. Facebook is a serious pita

It's not if you don't add every person that you've had contact in your life even for an hour and/or disable updates from people who post dumb shit there.

Anyone with a desktop that has glass underneath the keyboard and the mouse? Do you like it or not?

I have always been under the assumption that low pressure forced induction allows better efficiency as less fuel is wasted. No?

It all depends on the tune and the components, but it will still take more fuel than a NA engine.

I have no idea what any of it is. I don't care either. I am on the verge of disconnecting and going back to simpler times.

You're better off not knowing. Facebook is a serious pita

It's not if you don't add every person that you've had contact in your life even for an hour and/or disable updates from people who post dumb shit there.

I don't read that shit. Ever. I get on to answer the ridiculous PM's and pokes. If I don't people ask me why I'm being a dick. I think some people just take it too seriously

Any guess or idea on the difference between a Delphi MEFI computer and a EFI? Just realized my boat has a 350 Chevy, 9.4 to 1 compression, all forged internals, and I have a centrifugal supercharger in the basement. I know I can remap the engine, but am not sure what the difference of the map between marine and street is in the first place and I am sure the local dyno shops wouldn't either. Also probably silly to do it on a dyno and pull the motor when the load on the boat would be different. Figure an on water tune makes the most sense.

Can't go too wild as the boat will see a lot of 4000rpm running and even extended periods of 5200 (or close to). Also need to keep enough low end grunt to spin the prop to get on plane. Right now I have PLENTY of power, but have a prop that falls on its face at 38mph (or when I redline ), I'd like to put on a less aggressive prop and make up for it in power so that I can still get on plane quickly but gain some top end and more importantly improve my fuel efficiency at cruise due to dropping the rpm's with a different prop.

Figure slamming 8psi or so of boost on her would get me there with just a remap. In stock form she is 340hp/400ftlb so it is already cammed aggressive "enough" I would bet although I have no idea where I can find more details on what I have. Sucks its a GM as I know jack crap about them, but it ought to be cheap to replace anything that I need.

Personally, I'd sell the blower and keep it NA and maybe do some head and intake work. You can make the same amount of power and use less fuel, less pressure and strain on everything, etc. . .

That is seriously the opposite of what I expected you to say.

Also curious on the use less fuel, more power allows the same speed at a lower rpm (I get to change gearing, err props) which even with the parasitic load of the charger I would expect better fuel consumption.

I do have funny goals here compared to a car. I need more power to turn a tall gear and still get on plane. Once on plane I don't really need the power and will let the engine run relaxed unless I am an idiot and seriously burning fuel (ie top speed) in which case it will definitely suck significantly more gas. Analogy of adding an overdrive at the driveshaft/putting a tall gear in to achieve a better highway cruise but building up your power so that you can still accelerate equally.

I am just reverting back to my blower and turbo car experience. You always use more fuel with the cylinders pressurized. You have to. I know it may not be a concern to you, and might be the easy way with the blower, but I think for reliability's sake and savings, keeping it atmospheric will be best. You're going to be dealing with a cooler/denser air charge as well, so that will only help.

If running at 24mph you use the supercharger and the prop to make it so that you turn 3500rpm with the s/c and 4500rpm with the n/a with the only changes being the tune and the boost wouldn't you expect the s/c application to use less gas?

24 isn't super arbitrary as it is the sweet spot for fuel economy on my hull

And no way, no how is the Stinger fast enough to see transients. Piece of useless shit IMO. Of course when you are pushing the limits like you are something similar is needed for setup and then a piece of shit is okay.

Did you call him a hobo?

Anyone with a desktop that has glass underneath the keyboard and the mouse? Do you like it or not?

II used to in the old house, my mouse didn't like it. Needed a mouse pad which sucked because it defeats the purpose.

Fingerprint+ are annoying on it too.