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Also Mechman picked a winner, it's not us.

Nice they could come here and update the thread, right? Makes me want to not give them $400.00.

We announced on Facebook the name of the winner. His video needed to be re-edited as it showed some private info about his location/family and he didn't want that all over the net. It will be shared as soon as he re-posts it.

I did see it on there, but to me it comes down to being respectful to the forum.

i bet the winner was from SMD. seems he has a certain loyalty to that forum
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  • Chill- Lemme break it down as simple as I can on some of us here. The IHoP is like a big dysfunctional family. -M5 would be the uncle everyone respects and takes advice from. We may not like how he p

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Also Mechman picked a winner, it's not us.

Nice they could come here and update the thread, right? Makes me want to not give them $400.00.

We announced on Facebook the name of the winner. His video needed to be re-edited as it showed some private info about his location/family and he didn't want that all over the net. It will be shared as soon as he re-posts it.

I did see it on there, but to me it comes down to being respectful to the forum.

i bet the winner was from SMD. seems he has a certain loyalty to that forum

Which is fine, but always show respect to potential customers on all forums in which you associated the contest with. That goes a long way with me and may others.

Also Mechman picked a winner, it's not us.

Nice they could come here and update the thread, right? Makes me want to not give them $400.00.

We announced on Facebook the name of the winner. His video needed to be re-edited as it showed some private info about his location/family and he didn't want that all over the net. It will be shared as soon as he re-posts it.

Facebook isn't all over the internet? It sure as heck isn't private.

I've got yet another SPL build for a customer. It kills me that all my SPL builds were for people from out of town. So I manage to get 1-2 afternoons of testing and that's it.

Crunching my head as to what option is best at this point as I've never done a burp box in a trunk car smile.png

G-strings and F-holes sounds like a great place.

Tried range estimating with the Vortex (from backyard to neighbors wall), I guessed 110m, and got 128m from Google Earth. I blame it on the block on the their wall being angled. :P

Think perhaps my ECU has shit in the boat.

Although the only confusing thing is that it seems to be fine when the gas tank is full.

I am getting an alarm (temp, oil pressure, voltage, tranny temp, fault code). All my gauges show fine though.

After a fairly long run ~hr it shut off. Acted like out of gas. Figure the ECU is shutting off the fuel pump and it goes down. Fault keeps it that way for a half hour or so and then it fires back up and runs okay until it repeats.

Going to run it hard tomorrow and and when it shits open it up and peak at the fuel pump. It's my understanding that it should still have 12v to it. Don't think the ECU shuts it off when an accidental stall occurs. If I am wrong I suppose I could run a wire to the damn thing and plop my volt meter on the dash.

Any other thoughts? There is a shraeder on the fuel line so I can "check" pressure as well.

It should cut power if the engine is not running. Of course, marine programming could be different, but it should sense no spark or no exhaust and cut fuel as well. An automobile is the same way. ever notice if you just turn your key to the on position, you will hear your pump prime for a second or two, but it won't actually run until the vehicle is running.

I read differently on the marine, but am doubting the source. Any idea how to separate fuel pump from the control for it to check which is bad?

*assuming it's a fuel concern

Also, I assume that even when it dies there should be pressure in the fuel rail no? Meaning that if I check and there isn't any it is either the fuel pump control circuit or the fuel pump.

Obviously if it won't restart then I can check for pressure, but would love to try to isolate before getting to that.

Yes, it will still be pressurized. If you can, pick up a pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail. Check the pressure when you notice it start acting up. YOu should have a schrader valve you can place it on with no adverse effects.

Will do. Found a bad oil pressure sensor. Not the one for the gauge, but the one for the ECU. Intermittent though. Unplugged it which fooled the ECU to thinking it's ok and the boat ran fine for an hour at WOT. Never heard of an ECU pulling fuel when it see's no oil. Is that possible?

And no, was too stupid to reconnect the bad sensor and drive to see if she shut off. Will do later in the week though. Figure I am nearing 1/4 tank so I'll yank the cover, run her almost dry, suck it all out, replace the filters and add fresh gas. That will guarantee it isn't gas. Also will pull the gas vent line and make sure it has no water in it. Gets TOO close to the water when surfing so if the previous owner surfed a bunch there could be some wet. I don't have enough ballast to get there yet...

Think perhaps my ECU has shit in the boat.

Although the only confusing thing is that it seems to be fine when the gas tank is full.

I am getting an alarm (temp, oil pressure, voltage, tranny temp, fault code). All my gauges show fine though.

After a fairly long run ~hr it shut off. Acted like out of gas. Figure the ECU is shutting off the fuel pump and it goes down. Fault keeps it that way for a half hour or so and then it fires back up and runs okay until it repeats.

Going to run it hard tomorrow and and when it shits open it up and peak at the fuel pump. It's my understanding that it should still have 12v to it. Don't think the ECU shuts it off when an accidental stall occurs. If I am wrong I suppose I could run a wire to the damn thing and plop my volt meter on the dash.

Any other thoughts? There is a shraeder on the fuel line so I can "check" pressure as well.

It should cut power if the engine is not running. Of course, marine programming could be different, but it should sense no spark or no exhaust and cut fuel as well. An automobile is the same way. ever notice if you just turn your key to the on position, you will hear your pump prime for a second or two, but it won't actually run until the vehicle is running.

I read differently on the marine, but am doubting the source. Any idea how to separate fuel pump from the control for it to check which is bad?

*assuming it's a fuel concern

Also, I assume that even when it dies there should be pressure in the fuel rail no? Meaning that if I check and there isn't any it is either the fuel pump control circuit or the fuel pump.

Obviously if it won't restart then I can check for pressure, but would love to try to isolate before getting to that.

Yes, it will still be pressurized. If you can, pick up a pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail. Check the pressure when you notice it start acting up. YOu should have a schrader valve you can place it on with no adverse effects.

Will do. Found a bad oil pressure sensor. Not the one for the gauge, but the one for the ECU. Intermittent though. Unplugged it which fooled the ECU to thinking it's ok and the boat ran fine for an hour at WOT. Never heard of an ECU pulling fuel when it see's no oil. Is that possible?

And no, was too stupid to reconnect the bad sensor and drive to see if she shut off. Will do later in the week though. Figure I am nearing 1/4 tank so I'll yank the cover, run her almost dry, suck it all out, replace the filters and add fresh gas. That will guarantee it isn't gas. Also will pull the gas vent line and make sure it has no water in it. Gets TOO close to the water when surfing so if the previous owner surfed a bunch there could be some wet. I don't have enough ballast to get there yet...

Bad sensors can do very weird things. My Explorer was running like it was not getting enough fuel and it turned out to be a bad coolant temp sensor. It just depends on their temperment. It should cut ignition which will cause the fuel pump to stop anyways, but it's either open or closed so you should just shut off, not have the issues you are having. Anything is possible though, so I would replace the sensor no matter what.

Ride the Lightning makes me want to do bad things

Makes me drive, err, slow. tongue.png

:lol:

What pressure range should it be at? May change which gauge you get. high pressure or low pressure...

Mortared a basement. Well finished the project. Drylocked the walls. Got way too high on fumes.

:-(

Had the garbage can down with us. Well extra mortar and what knocked off the wall was pretty heavy!!!

It must have been in the 550 pound range. Myself and I had to lighten it considerably just to.get it up the stairs. Thank god all my soreness and pain is in my legs.

Tried range estimating with the Vortex (from backyard to neighbors wall), I guessed 110m, and got 128m from Google Earth. I blame it on the block on the their wall being angled. :P

Mil or MOA?

I find it kind of fun to range stuff like that.

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