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think I have finally made up my mind on a sub :)

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  • Chill- Lemme break it down as simple as I can on some of us here. The IHoP is like a big dysfunctional family. -M5 would be the uncle everyone respects and takes advice from. We may not like how he p

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ssd copper coil. Models the best in the space i have to offer sealed . :)

This is a quote from Dan Wiggins over on DIY audio on why Adire Audio closed its doors.

Hi all,

I'm only going to post once, and would ask the moderators to consider locking this thread so it doesn't turn in to a long, drawn out shoutfest that can often happen...

Shutting Adire came from a variety of issues:

1. A partner in the Chilean venture ran off with an extremely large sum of funds, leaving essentially zero. As I shut it down, I made sure that I personally covered all paychecks and expenses of all employees - the ethical lapse of my partner was not their fault and they did not bear any repercussions from it.

2. Having a key member of the creation of the Chilean venture (chief engineer of another company) quit right at the beginning, seriously impacting the start of operations.

3. Another partner who became seriously hands-off and essentially didn't want to work in the business, but still expected full compensation and benefits.

4. Two dealers who ordered and accepted very large shipments of product, only to promptly go out of business, and having another dealer still running an extremely large outstanding balance over the last few years.

5. A few users who destroyed their drivers (we're talking screwdrivers through surrounds, frames cracked from being dropped, voice coils turned to charcoal) and refused to pay for any repairs claiming it had to be from defective products, and loudly claiming such over the forums (for the record, we still have 7 drivers here waiting to be paid for repair work; that's it).

6. A dealer who, only after threat of legal action, finally admitted to lying and slandering us about product quality, deliveries, authorization and pricing. Just made things up to better his own position at the expense of ours.

7. A state and federal tax system that has gotten extremely onerous and difficult to work with (including having random EINs newly assigned every year, for 9 years running - imagine being told you now have 10 tax IDs and why haven't you paid on 9 of them you little tax cheat?).

Aside: Terry, Kevin and I spoke at length about this issue simply because it's what older men do - drink coffee and complain about the government. That and shake our fists and yell at the kids to get off our lawn.

But in reality this was one of the smaller - but more irritating - issues.

8. A realistic look at where the aftermarket car and home DIY markets are heading. It's not pretty.

9. A realistic look at where our income is really coming from; having clients and licensees from tiny operations like CSS to big guys like Microsoft (yes, both a licensee and client) really sets where to focus efforts.

Given the above, it was pretty much in the best interest of all involved just to terminate and go our seperate ways. XBL

Hey I got some last minute things I wanna go over before I start the install tomorrow (2003 Silverado)

1. What distance does the fuse need to be from the battery? 6" right? Also the shorter the ground the better right?

2. I'm gonna do the Big 3 while I'm at it, so should I fuse those connections? I really don't want to have to buy 3 fuse holders and fuses for 1/0 wire, so if it's not a necessity let me know but if it'll be a hazard I'll do it.

3. There's an order to hookup the amp right? Like ground then power then remote then RCA's ?

If you guys don't mind, give me some tips or safety advice... my last install was fine, but I don't wanna mess this investment up so I'm being extra careful

-John

Put the fuse as close to the battery you can.

There is no real rule that I know of on ground length, as long as it is a good ground you will be fine.

No need to fuse the big 3.

I've never had an order to hooking up amps. What I always do is pull the fuse out of the main power wire and only put it back in when everything is done. The trick is to remember to put the fuse back in so you don't beat your head against the wall when the amp dosen't work. :)

Just take your time and you'll be fine.

Put the fuse as close to the battery you can.

There is no real rule that I know of on ground length, as long as it is a good ground you will be fine.

No need to fuse the big 3.

I've never had an order to hooking up amps. What I always do is pull the fuse out of the main power wire and only put it back in when everything is done. The trick is to remember to put the fuse back in so you don't beat your head against the wall when the amp dosen't work. :)

Just take your time and you'll be fine.

ok that's how I did it the first time, but I read sometimes RCA's can carry a charge or something and they can screw the amp up when you plug them in first without power or ground.

thanks for the reply

-John

I can NOT believe someone on ca.com made a thread about how to spin the tires in a car with an automatic transmission. I thought this was something that was coded into every male's DNA at birth.

Apparently the gene pool needs some cholorine in it.

apparently tonight is my holdiday off, so I am welcoming myself back to the hop. And honestly unless you drive a dodge neon everyday, you should know how to spin the tires with an auto.

I can NOT believe someone on ca.com made a thread about how to spin the tires in a car with an automatic transmission. I thought this was something that was coded into every male's DNA at birth.

Apparently the gene pool needs some cholorine in it.

Unless it is FWD automatic econobox, then you might as well piss into the wind.

Hell, you can spin the tires in basically ANYTHING if you know what your doing... I can even do it in a fricking Astro van.

You have never driven a bone stock sohc neon before than. I can put the ebrake on, tires won't even chirp. 50 weight oil on the tires is about the only way to get them to break loose from a stop. the first gear on the car (only 3 gears) is retardedly long. (goes to 54 mph). If it is raining and you stop on the white line, you might just be able to get them going long enough to hit redline, have 2 cylinders shut off the car shift into second and roll along. IF it is raining, you are going up hill (turning onto) a road, you might, just might be able to keep the tires spinning just long enough to get them to smoke... AND IF YOU have been driving a neon for ~ 4 years, and have gone through 2 motors and 3 trannies at this point you can say you have had as much experience trying to get neons to do burnouts. Later on this year when I blow another auto tranny, I am just going to plop in the standard I have sitting in my garage, along with my new motor.

I can NOT believe someone on ca.com made a thread about how to spin the tires in a car with an automatic transmission. I thought this was something that was coded into every male's DNA at birth.

Apparently the gene pool needs some cholorine in it.

Unless it is FWD automatic econobox, then you might as well piss into the wind.

Never had to drive one of them, but I do believe that is when the e-brake comes in...

Long time ago when my parents were still dating they were going to some of my mom's relations wedding. Dad was driving mom's car, this little FWD econobox thingy. They miss the exit, mom turns to dad and tells him that that was the exit. Soooo without saying anything dad just reached down, pulled the e-brake and whiped a 180* in the middle of the road. Scared the PISS out of mom.

All econobox autos do lol

Ebrake doesn't help either... tried.

Same with the Sebring I had as a rental car... couldn't get the tires to budge, computers wouldn't let it.

Ok, wow, neons suck. :)

They do 180's, j-turns etc... very well. And personally there aren't many fwd cars that can stick to the road like a neon (they did dominate the scca in the late 90's). But for get up and go. They suck ass. The standard variant is almost 3 seconds quicker than the automatic.

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