fun drive today, good scenery between Little Rock and Springfield on US-65

for getting to see the power tour and meeting Tom tomorrow

*chuckle*

ha ha

I'm actually fairly clean shaven, for me

no way

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

way.

prove it

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

for getting to see the power tour and meeting Tom tomorrow

any chance for the Chevelle?

Nope, haven't had time to work on it this year.

prove it

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

you'll get an eye witness tomorrow

prove it

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

you'll get an eye witness tomorrow

lol

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

oh crap, I think we'll be driving through rain tomorrow AM

fuck nuts

go to southern illinois, where i live, lol. no tstorms there!!

i've got summer's ale in the fridge too!

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Oh Snap!

Ha ha no t-storms here............then again that season isn't that far off

J

Thanks Kent

next step is window tint, anyone know a rough guess for for cost of tint? Never done it or priced it before.

all the way around including windshield? around $250-300 depending upon shop, quality of tint. back three 150-200 same reasons.

that's typical pricing for our old shop.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Wow It cost my friend 150 for illegal tint including everything but the front windshield

mmmmmmmmm

collagen

You bastard, I made some last week and they were so good I ate both racks in a sitting. Now I was going to grill a hamburger or some easy shit tonight, but you got me. Time to go to the local smoke house and chow some down myself.

My freezer was too cold............burned to all hell

It isn't because it is too cold, probably your automatic defroster heating it up too much actually.

Hmmm, anyone ever seen a Cadillac autocrossed?

I think the Schwartz '83 has been autocrossed

And was fast as hell, he sold it for a dime on Ebay last year as well. I think he told me $6k.

I wouldn't be surprised if he isn't at least in Rochester, he normally comes out to the MN shows.

fuck nuts

Thank god it's missing us, hailed 2x last week. WTF God, it's JUNE!

Another dumb question...

I put some Maw10s in a buddies truck and when I wired them, I did it like this diagram. But when I put a multimeter to the end of the speaker wires it said 2ohm per speaker, not 1ohm.

So I thought I had 2 subs at 2ohm final load and when I wired them to the amp it would make a 1ohm load. But if that diagram is right and if the Maw10s are indeed 2*2ohms then did I wire the subs to a 0.5 ohm load? I need to know as soon as possible cause I also tuned it with a multimeter to 24.49v which was for 600watts @ 1ohm. If it is a 0.5 ohm final load on the amp then I need to know so I can tell him to turn the gain down until I get a chance to rewire them... I'm confused yet again.

cause it needs to be like this, correct? But in this picture it shows one sub getting power through the other one. I'm wiring them both to the amp, which is a series connection internally, right? So whatever each sub reads for final load I would divide that by 2 and that's what the amp is seeing, correct? So I need to make each sub have a load of 4ohms and then when I wire them to the amp it'll be 2ohms?

Edited June 9, 200817 yr by ILuvJDM

Huh, first off Multi-meters do NOT measure impedance.

Second, setting your gains with a DMM is dangerous.

And hopefully the answer to your question is (not really sure what you asked):

You can wire each sub in series and then the pair in parallel or wire each sub in parallel and then the pair in series with the same result.

I'm thinking about buying topgun's maggies. I would have to change the orientation of my listening room but they should fit.

Pssst, Sean has already bought them.

Just look on audiogon, you can find some cheap ones there.

Huh, first off Multi-meters do NOT measure impedance.

Second, setting your gains with a DMM is dangerous.

And hopefully the answer to your question is (not really sure what you asked):

You can wire each sub in series and then the pair in parallel or wire each sub in parallel and then the pair in series with the same result.

I have an ohm setting on the multimeter and that's what I've always used to find load... I know setting with a DMM is dangerous but it's all I have since I sold my o'scope.

Right now each sub is wire in parallel then each sub is hooked into the amp (both sets of +/- are used on the amp). So how do I pair in series? I don't know why I ever tried to get into audio I'm just gonna leave it to the pros from now on.

Another dumb question...

I put some Maw10s in a buddies truck and when I wired them, I did it like this diagram. But when I put a multimeter to the end of the speaker wires it said 2ohm per speaker, not 1ohm.

So I thought I had 2 subs at 2ohm final load and when I wired them to the amp it would make a 1ohm load. But if that diagram is right and if the Maw10s are indeed 2*2ohms then did I wire the subs to a 0.5 ohm load? I need to know as soon as possible cause I also tuned it with a multimeter to 24.49v which was for 600watts @ 1ohm. If it is a 0.5 ohm final load on the amp then I need to know so I can tell him to turn the gain down until I get a chance to rewire them... I'm confused yet again.

cause it needs to be like this, correct? But in this picture it shows one sub getting power through the other one. I'm wiring them both to the amp, which is a series connection internally, right? So whatever each sub reads for final load I would divide that by 2 and that's what the amp is seeing, correct? So I need to make each sub have a load of 4ohms and then when I wire them to the amp it'll be 2ohms?

if the maw 10s are d2 subs, and you wired them like in the first pic (parallel, all teh positives together, and all teh megatives together) you are indeed at .5ohm.

you need to series each sub, positive from one coil to the negative of the other and the remaining positive and negative go to the amp,(each sub) and you'll have your 2 ohm final load.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Ohms is resistance, you need to measure impedance albeit in this case they should be close enough.

Was Kent's explanation enough?

What amp is it? Depending you may want to be conservative on the volts if you have to use a DMM.