I am curious as to both the price and the hassle. Sorry that sucks.

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket.

All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it.

The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER.

In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run.

$100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

The only superchargers that we have at home are bolted on the side of 6-71 Detroits.

they go on the side rather than on top?

nifty

The Fiyachicken took its maiden voyage yesterday. Just to the alignment shop and back.

Nice!

and a review!

Here is his email verbotten:

Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had!

All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure!

The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal.

We're gettin' there!!

*** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable

Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun :D

Glad to hear the TKO was a solid choice

How'd that Flowmaster exhaust kit fit?

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

I am curious as to both the price and the hassle. Sorry that sucks.

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket.

All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it.

The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER.

In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run.

$100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it?

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

The Fiyachicken took its maiden voyage yesterday. Just to the alignment shop and back.

Nice!

and a review!

Here is his email verbotten:

Ran the car last night about 15 miles, did a big loop from Rockford to Delano and back. I did a few shakedown runs around my place and everything seemed good. I was initially disappointed in how powerful it felt after taking it off the trailer on Friday after getting it aligned. My fears were unfounded. After adjusting the timing and taking it down the road I got on it to see what I was dealing with. Part of the issue is my throttle bracket has dual return springs that are pretty beefy, leading to a high effort gas pedal feel. After running it awhile I stomped on it good, and it went like a bat out of hell. I can't recall being in or on anything much faster. I'm sure a bike would be, but it felt right up there. I did it from about a 15mph roll since I didn't want get too carried away, and shifted around 5K the few times I did get into it. I want to make sure the tranny/rearend are broke in before getting too crazy, and I granny shifted as best I could. But I had to see what she had!

All in all I'm very happy that everything works as it should. The tranny shifts effortlessly into each gear, the car runs strong and sounds good, there are no noises from the rearend. The clutch works smoothly, and the brakes are unreal. I got it out on a backroad and ran it up to 50-60mph and hit the brakes hard and steady to the verge of lock-up, repeated that about 4 times and drove it a few miles without touching them to allow them to cool. I got all the black coating off the fronts, I'll need to adjust my rear prop valve to bring in more of the rears as I could see about half the coating still on those. It's unbelievable how hard/fast it stops without even using much of the rears. Definitely feels, sounds, goes, and stops like a virtual race car. The ride was surprisingly good, the Koni's definitely were money well spent. It wasn't as jarring or abrupt as I expected, no worse than a Z06. I was fearing for the worst, but am very glad that it's relatively comfortable on the highway. The seats are a big help I'm sure!

The bad news is I saw a small puddle of oil under the car this morning. The engine builder did comment about the oil pan seal, and I have to put some RTV on the bolts that hold the valley pan cover down (covers the top of the block) since I could see oil coming from those holes from crankcase pressure. I thinks some of that is attributable to not having a working PCV either, and just having breathers. I'm going to rig up a working PCV system that I think will keep the engine from pushing oil vapors out of the engine. I'm hoping that the oil pushed out those bolt holes is what ran back and dripped to the floor, and my valve covers weren't exactly ultra secure (one side only has 3 of 4 bolts since I'm missing one). Anyway, oil leaks are an easy fix relatively. This was the whole point of getting it out there before winter....if I have to pull the engine to fix a rear seal or oil pan gasket or whatever, it's a weekend deal.

We're gettin' there!!

*** the "oil" leak was a loose speedo cable

Sounds like a hell of a lot of fun :D

Glad to hear the TKO was a solid choice

How'd that Flowmaster exhaust kit fit?

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

Werd.

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

Jeez Tom, if you insist

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

you got that right, buddy

Damn, how'd you sneak that post in there.

wh0re

top

Personally I think the chrome pumpkin cover is super gay

I am curious as to both the price and the hassle. Sorry that sucks.

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket.

All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it.

The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER.

In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run.

$100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it?

Hm?

a GM LT1 WP is about $150 last I saw

Damn, how'd you sneak that post in there.

wh0re

X2

I am curious as to both the price and the hassle. Sorry that sucks.

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket.

All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it.

The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER.

In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run.

$100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it?

Hm?

a GM LT1 WP is about $150 last I saw

I just figured the SouthStar would be more expensive.

Personally I think the chrome pumpkin cover is super gay

I certainly would never buy one....

what'd he end up doing about the red anodized carb parts?

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

Jeez Tom, if you insist

where do the tips exit?

I am curious as to both the price and the hassle. Sorry that sucks.

100$ for the brand new water pump from the Cadillac stealership, 50$ for a rebuilt one from an autoparts store but everything I read said nothing but a brand new one works... Another 25$ for the specialty tool to get the actual water pump out, 15$ for the new belt and cover plate gasket.

All in all I ended up spending ~200$ and 3hrs. The book time is 3hrs so it isn't to bad, hate to see what a dealer would charge to change it.

The actual work is fairly easy, I took plenty of time and didn't hurry anything. I could have been done in almost half the time if the back bolt holding the cover plate on wasn't hidden behind the biggest wire bundle EVER.

In order to change it you have to pull a belt cover off (its driven off the front bank's top camshaft), loosen the belt, pull the tensioner pulley off to remove the belt. Next you unbolt four bolts to get the front plate off, insert your special do-hicky thing-a-ma-jog tool into the hole, get 'er lined up and push like hell; it's an 1/8 turn cam-lock on the water pump. After that it'll just pull right out, clean the plates and o-ring spots up, stick the new water pump in the same way it came out and bolt it all back together and your ready to run.

$100 for a GM water pump isn't terrible, that's cheaper than one for an LT1

Even cheaper considering it is a Northstar and not an LT1...isn't it?

Hm?

a GM LT1 WP is about $150 last I saw

I just figured the SouthStar would be more expensive.

I would've guessed the same as well.

Powerdyne from my SHO. Same unit Dinan used on the M3's. Sealed Centrifugal type. Could be useful if I owned a car I wanted to put it on.

I did a Momentum article on an M3 with the full Dinan package with that exact Powerdyne. I just went to look and my old Photodump account is dead, or I have long forgotten the password. In addition, I checked on CS.org and the server is busy so I cannot link the article. Wrote it some 4 years ago, but still applicable in this instance.

I miss writing for Momentum, in a way I would like to restart the Mag. I know Neil enjoys writing, and maybe we could get a few others to bring it back to life supported here. I know AudioJunkies is there for a reason, but maybe bringing back Momentum which was more focused on the average experienced audio and automotive nut on the net would be worth it.

The exhaust fit really well. Super clean.

Jeez Tom, if you insist

where do the tips exit?

Far right and far left. No pic sorry. I looked. There will be many pics once the hood is on and it is really being driven.

Powerdyne from my SHO. Same unit Dinan used on the M3's. Sealed Centrifugal type. Could be useful if I owned a car I wanted to put it on.

I did a Momentum article on an M3 with the full Dinan package with that exact Powerdyne. I just went to look and my old Photodump account is dead, or I have long forgotten the password. In addition, I checked on CS.org and the server is busy so I cannot link the article. Wrote it some 4 years ago, but still applicable in this instance.

I miss writing for Momentum, in a way I would like to restart the Mag. I know Neil enjoys writing, and maybe we could get a few others to bring it back to life supported here. I know AudioJunkies is there for a reason, but maybe bringing back Momentum which was more focused on the average experienced audio and automotive nut on the net would be worth it.

I'd love to see your article.

top

Personally I think the chrome pumpkin cover is super gay

I certainly would never buy one....

what'd he end up doing about the red anodized carb parts?

It came for free with the rear end, an aluminum one was extra. I told him to paint it. I wouldn't have paid extra for aluminum either but I would have painted it.

He just left them. He wanted some bling, which is crazy since he can't afford the damn car in the first place but it is his car.

Self portrait:

Ferdinand!