so all in agreement?

125 set on bandpass for the e8s?

4 ohm stereo correct?

so all in agreement?

125 set on bandpass for the e8s?

4 ohm stereo correct?

That would be my choice.

Sounds like a plan, hopefully Sean will pop in eventually and recommend you a tweeter and midrange to go along with the E8.

Where will the tweets be mounted? Are the mids going to be sealed or IB?

well i planed on doing the 8s as in ib.... i cant do both ib can i

well i planed on doing the 8s as in ib.... i cant do both ib can i

Where are the mids going?

im gonna try to put the 8 in the 5x7 spot, i could do a small mid where the tweeter is now........ and i could glass my a piller for tweets....

or just go two way.

How much room do you have on your A-Pillar? Can you fit a 4" mid. I would try to keep the tweet and the mid together.

im sure i can make that work.... just be glassing them

That would be my recommendation. CDT has some bad ass 3" and 4" drivers along with some killer tweet options.

this sucks.....

i donno if im gonna have space, with out cutting my door panel to shit.... and on the drive door as in the pic my trunk and fuel door button are right in the friggin way!

but http://cgi.ebay.com/2-CDT-Audio-M6-6-5-480...%3A1%7C294%3A50

those guys look beefy.. and i can just do a 5x7 to 6.5 plate, and go active with ease.

such a mess i caused for you guys helping me.... thank you so much. ill start another topic when i figure out more, this way im not in the sundown section.

but on the upside, i do have 2 e8's 2 mdf rings and another lincoln and a wrecker! so thay will not go to waste!

The M6+ is bad ass but needs to be enclosed. If you are going to run IB I would recommend the M6 which also an incredible mid/sub driver.

I'm using the Seas Prestige Neo Tweets and the Tang Band 6.5" underhung midbass drivers for midrange, but i'm going to try glassing kickpods for them both. The Tang Bands are huge so I think you would have the same problems with your doors as you would with the E8's. Sorry I can't be more help.

i looked at the tangos but indeed thay are too deep....

ah see i was wondering about the m6+ and the m6.... ok thanks for the heads up!

The M6 also has a braxial mount option so you can run your main tweet on axis. If your doors are deadend and sealed up pretty well the M6's will sound awesome. They are a mid/sub and play down to 10 hz. They are loud, clean, and can handle just about anything you throw at them. Now If Jacob would just make some Components already...

i know what you mean... i feel like im cheating on sundown!!!!

i bought a 100 feet of sound mat lastnight..so as soon as that shit gets in im gonna TEAR DOWN!

hhahah like that trick my truck show. and then its on.

Bigjon,

Active is not that bad nor is it that tweak intensive.Unless you want it to be. Plus I have found in LOUD SOUND QUALITY it allows the best sound because you CAN tweak every aspect. I am running full active and love it. I have the Alpine H701 which is a dream to deal with so not sure about the Pioneer. Just make sure you set your crossovers correctly for the drivers so that you don't blow them. The only thing missing from the passive network is any notch filters that have been factored in on the passive's driver selections. You can always EQ those in. I have found that with very little eq I love the way mine sounds. Mine is not set up for any SQ comps but I can always do that. I like to equalize pathlengths of the individual speakers as much as possible so that T/A is not needed as much but again not sure about your Pioneer.

TA is a bandaid...

TA is a bandaid...

I look at it as a tool like the EQ.Most of the SQ winners use T/A. Gain adjustment only goes so far for super accurate staging. Again I believe in installing the speakers to achieve as close as possible equal path lengths but of course I can't.

i think im gonna do tha CDT's for now... and see what catches my eye in the future... the way my door panel is and i only have 3 inches depth in the doors. so 8's will not be used... but i have more cars!