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Featured Replies

Posted

I am looking to order a FIq this weekend but not sure which to go with.. i am looking for SQ and good tight musical bass... it will be in a enclosed box that i will make.. should i go with the 10 or 12 and any other options i should chooce?

David

Depends on how much room you have to work with and how much power you are wanting to run...

Box rec's are in the sticky section at the top of the page in the 'Technical' forum. It explains the options there as well.

Thanks!

  • Author

I drive an xterra so i have the room to build a box how ever big.. i am just curios if i am going to here much of a sonic / quality difference between them... I always assumed 10" were a bit more accurate than 12's... any opinions on that...

it's a myth. Go with what you have room for.

The 12" will also be able to play lower with more output.

  • Author

thanks ....going to double check my measurements and probably go with the 12... as for the options can some one point me in the right direction... i have been trying to understand them.. but am still a bit confused...

i am looking at the Q12 i am not really concerned with "loudness" but more on SQ.. other words not planning on rolling around the neighborhood waking the neighbors ;-) probably not very concerned with pushing it to its limits either... going to go with a class D or a/b amp not sure which yet... but i assume something that goes to 1 ohm ??

dave

  • Author

sent this email to FI sales... if someone could answer the questions here that would be great so i can order the 12Q

Hello,

I am planning on ordering a Fi-Q12 but want to make sure i understand the difference between these options..

Ohm: dual 1 or 2 ? Is this just meaning the amp will run at 1 ohm or 2 ohms ? not sure on the dual part.. ??

and Bp Power?

If someone can just give a brief explanation of each so i can place my order with the proper options, and what should i look for in an amp.. class A/B or class D and minimum RMS ? one i am looking at is A/B at 1 ohm or 2ohms / 500rms, do i need more power?

thanks

David

Dual means that there are 2 voice coils. A dual 1 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 2 ohm final load, or in parallel for a .5 ohm final load. Similarly, a dual 2 ohm driver can either be wired in series for a 4 ohm load or in parallel for a 1 ohm load. You can also run just one voice coil, with the expense of losing 50% of the power handling capability

Selecting the proper VC configuration really depends on what amp you want to run the sub with. Are you saying that the amp you are looking at makes 500 RMS at a 1 OR 2 ohm load? In that case, go with a D1 and series wire it, since the amp will likely put less of a strain on the electrical system at higher impedances.

What amp is it that you are considering?

Edited by manbeer

  • Author

for the sub... the new soundstream REF (REF1.500) series coming out... they are made by the original design team.. not like the stuff that has been out from them for the past 5 years or so..

Go for a D1, series wired for 2 ohm load. should be nice, let me know how you like the amp...i am a huge fan of old SS but too much of a sissy to take the plunge on the new ones until i see some results

  • Author

thanks for the info and will let you know how they sound.. just waiting for them to be released... my local car audio shop said they think to have em in sometime next week.. but we will see....

Do beware if you are shooting for a 2ohm final load that there are not as many choices as a 1ohm so before ordering I'd personally think about the amp a little more.

No need at all to run A/B on a sub. The extra power consumption really doesn't make sense actually. Class D would be a better choice.

Definitely a myth on the accuracy between the 10 & 12, no worries get the 12 if you have room.

I'd actually go with a dual 2 so that you can wire in parallel for a 1 ohm load. There are a lot more options for a Class D 1000 watt at 1 ohm amp than at 2 ohms. Plus if you chose a class A/B amp, most of those are 2 channel amps that are stable at 4 ohms bridged, which is what you'd get wiring a dual 2 sub in series. So you would win with either amp class you wanted, generally.

Edit: Ah, you beat me.

i was reading some stuff on class A/B and damping factor vs class d's. would an AB be better vs a D, in this respect, or is this another myth?

sorry for the tread jack...

i was reading some stuff on class A/B and damping factor vs class d's. would an AB be better vs a D, in this respect, or is this another myth?

sorry for the tread jack...

If you think you can hear the damping factor difference....

in particular in a car, on a sub, regularly in the trunk...

no way. Not at all worth the efficiency cost either, for subs there is really never a reason to do anything that isn't as efficient as a Class D.

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