Posted May 15, 200916 yr What is more important to place deadner on? The outer layer of the door? Or the inner metal where the speaker mounts?
May 15, 200916 yr everywhere. and try to cover all openings in the doors to stiffen them up and decrease cancellation btwn the front and rear waves of the speaker(s)
May 15, 200916 yr Author everywhere. and try to cover all openings in the doors to stiffen them up and decrease cancellation btwn the front and rear waves of the speaker(s)I am putting in on the whole door as is. But which ever people think help the most I would put more on. I will probably do 2-3 layers on the doors, both inner and outer layers of metal, then 4 layers on the back wall.
May 15, 200916 yr RAAMmat- stuff works great and is thicker than dynamat extreme. also is butyl based and NOT asphalt based. used 100 plus feet on my ram and have no complaints and is waaaayy cheaper than dynamat extremem or fatmat extreme and i actually like it better than dynamat extreme..just my .02c
May 15, 200916 yr Author RAAMmat- stuff works great and is thicker than dynamat extreme. also is butyl based and NOT asphalt based. used 100 plus feet on my ram and have no complaints and is waaaayy cheaper than dynamat extremem or fatmat extreme and i actually like it better than dynamat extreme..just my .02cWhat did you pay for all of it?
May 15, 200916 yr Multiple layers of any product isn't a great strategy - each layer after the first adds very little because it is really deadening the layer underneath it. Definitely seal the access holes. If you are using mounting rings or a baffle, extend it as much as possible to add rigidity to the inner skin. Both skins are equally important. It's a very good idea to slide vinyl tubing over actuator rods and then wrap them with foam. Tape down wires. Put a layer of closed cell foam between the inner skin and the door card to prevent buzzing. Put a layer of mass loaded vinyl or other barrier material over the closed cell foam if yo want to cut down on noise intrusion and to further isolate the fornt and back waves produced by door mounted speakers.
May 15, 200916 yr Take a look at Secondskinaudio Damplifier or Damplifier pro.I tried Fatmat before, for my trunk, and ordered Damplifier after : much better!Secondskinaudio have a subforum here.Their customer service is really good, and I live far from the USA !!!
May 17, 200916 yr Take a look at Secondskinaudio Damplifier or Damplifier pro.I tried Fatmat before, for my trunk, and ordered Damplifier after : much better!Secondskinaudio have a subforum here.Their customer service is really good, and I live far from the USA !!!Agreed.
May 18, 200916 yr from personal experience raammat > dynamat extreme. cost wise u get hellz more raammat then dynamat. performance wise id say raammat looked alittle thicker.
May 19, 200916 yr Check out the info on SoundDeadenerShowdown.com. Indeed. I'd rather buy from Don than Ant anyday of the week.
May 19, 200916 yr Multiple layers of any product isn't a great strategy - each layer after the first adds very little because it is really deadening the layer underneath it. Definitely seal the access holes. If you are using mounting rings or a baffle, extend it as much as possible to add rigidity to the inner skin. Both skins are equally important. It's a very good idea to slide vinyl tubing over actuator rods and then wrap them with foam. Tape down wires. Put a layer of closed cell foam between the inner skin and the door card to prevent buzzing. Put a layer of mass loaded vinyl or other barrier material over the closed cell foam if yo want to cut down on noise intrusion and to further isolate the fornt and back waves produced by door mounted speakers.^^ Buy this man's deadener, he knows what he's talking about
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