Posted June 19, 200916 yr Ok well I got my SSA XCON 12's awhile ago, and my SAZ-1500 D sundown audio amps. I waited a while to hook it all up to get everything I needed for the install. I installed them today, took me about 6 hours cause i wanted to make sure everything was perfect, and the way it was suppose to be. Well obviously I did something wrong because I ran into some problems. I would like some help to find out what I did wrong if anything, or if I just have shitty luck. I hooked it all up, I was liking the sound. Later on during the experience through the day I noticed they weren't hitting as hard as they were at first. Here and there i'd smell something like plastic burning. I sealed the subs in the box with silicone just to make a better seal, etc. I dunno if anyone would not recommend not doing it or recommend it, but that's what I decided to do. I fused everything, like everything. To keep fire hazards out of the question. Sense I have two SAZ-1500 D's I strapped them together (piggy backed, jumped, ive heard it called many things.) I believe I did this the right way but I may be wrong. That's why I am here. Once I smelled the whatever it was burning, which was the silicone, which i'll get to how in a minute. I unscrewed my subs and looked inside to see if everything was ok. Well no fire good lmao, nothing bad, but the sub magnets where very hot. I couldn't even like leave my hand on them for a second. I don't know if this is normal for these subs but i've never had a pair of subs get that hot. But the thing is only one was, and the other one was warm but not hot. Same with the amps, the one that was hooked up to the sub that was very hot was also very hot the other was not. So basically one amp and sub that were hooked together were hot and the other sub and amp were just warm. The way I Piggy backed, strapped, whatever was I ran a set of RCA's from the head unit to the back of the car plugged into the main amp, then plugged in another set of RCA's from the main amp to the other, where i'm from that's how I was taught, if there is better way or a way i am suppose to do with these subs PLEASE inform me. Here are some pictures to give you an idea.Note: the red wire on the ground of the kinetic battery is for a ground i just ran out of ground wire. and the only color i could get was red. Edited June 19, 200916 yr by Matt C.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin Hey Matt, this is Mark who you spoke with earlier. Looks to me that your amps are not strapped at all, they are running independent of each other the way they are hooked up. One could be warm if the gain on one is higher then the other amps. I would suggest getting these amps properly strapped together, then wire the subs in series/parallel to achieve a 2 ohm load. Here's the tutorial on strapping the amps...1) My amps work fine un-strapped but go into protection when strapped and/or my amps are stuck in protection. - 3/8/07I have had three customers with this complaint. All three of them replaced their RCA cables to remedy the problem. Some model Stinger and Memphis RCA cables will NOT work with the SAZ-1500D, *especially* for the jumper RCA from master to slave based on the feedback I have received. Be advised... this should be the FIRST thing you check if your strapped pair is going into protection. It will usually be the slave going into protection if this is the case... but not always.------------------------------2) I want to strap my amp at the lowest possible load, what is it? - 3/13/07Quite frankly I recommend to run the amps at 1 ohm each and 2 ohms strapped. One hundred percent of any problems people see with protection and overheating result from loads under 1 ohm per amplifier... I have yet to hear a single compaint at 1 ohm operation. The lowest officially supported strapped load is 2 ohms. Running at a load of under 1 ohm un-strapped or 2 ohms strapped (1 ohm per amp) will void your warranty coverage.As of March 31st, 2007 the SAZ-1500D will not carry 0.5 ohm warranty coverage. All amplifiers sold BEFORE that date are still covered by the 0.5 ohm warranty as described in THIS thread.------------------------------3) I am looking at the manual but still can't figure out how to strap the amps. - 3/13/07This seems to be a common problem so it's not just you. I hooked up the wiring on a pair and snapped some actual photos to help you out:The master amplifier gets the input from the head-unit and a mono RCA from "BR Out" connected.The slave amplifier ONLY gets "BR In" connected from the master.ALL controls are handled on the master, setting anything on the slave is not necessary.This picture should be pretty self explanatory.* The slave takes the "-" connection(s)* The master takes the "+" connection(s)* The "-" terminals of the amps are hooked together.You don't need to use both sets of "+" on the amps. They are there for flexibility. While you should always connect both "-" terminals on the amps together using large wire as general procedure it is not absolutely necessary to use both sets of "+" terminals. They are connected together internally in parallel.When strapped the MASTER controls ALL functions of both amps.-----------------------------4) Hey, doesn't the SAE-1000D accept 1/0 Power wire? It doesn't fit, what gives? - 7/3/07Print materials have a mis-print stating 1/0 power wire will fit. In reality the power / ground terminals are identical to the SAX-100.2 and 100.4 models -- meaning they are designed for 4 gauge wire. You can trim 1/0 wire to fit, use a "reducer," or go through a distribution block to run 4 gauge to the amp if you already have 1/0 ran.-----------------------------5) I can't find my invoice but I need to send my amplifier in for warranty. - 4/9/08You need some sort of invoice to prove your date of purchase PERIOD. I can not play detective for you and figure out when and where you bought the amp, the warranty terms clearly state a need for an invoice of some kind from your authorized dealer. A cart check-out page (listing what the item is) and a Paypal receipt are acceptable from an online dealer - but you MUST sent in SOMETHING.NO EXCEPTIONS.-----------------------------6) I am sending my amplifier in for warranty, how should I pack it? - 4/9/08DO NOT send the amplifier in it's cosmetic packing only! I repeat, DO NOT send it in the cosmetic packing only. You MUST put the cosmetic box inside of a second box or, chances are, it will be damaged in shipping. Per the warranty terms I am NOT responsible for damage due to poor packing from the customer and you WILL be charged for repair or replacement if it is beyond repair from damage. Insurance will NOT cover an amplifier packed in a cosmetic box, it is considered poor packing practice.------------------------------7) Can I use the BR IN and BR OUT connectors for daisy chaining amps? Do they work like regular outputs? - 4/21/08NO, they can not be used as regular outputs for daisy chaining amps. DO NOT do this.The BR OUT if to be connected to the BR IN of a slave amp, when strapped, ONLY.DO NOT put signal INTO the BR OUT connector.------------------------------8) Why are there two pairs of connections on the mono-block Class-D amps? How do I bridge them? - 4/21/08You do not bridge them, it is a mono-block amplifier.The connectors are in parallel inside the amp. If you hook 4 ohms to each one, you get two ohms. If you hook 2 ohms to each one, you get one ohm.They are also there for strapping the amps, as pictured above.------------------------------More stuff coming when I get time and/or more questions that need answered.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.The huge advantage of strapping your amps is the knowing that each sub will get equal amount of power. Hooking them up individually, you will have a hard time setting gains to be identical as you have to have a multimeter to achieve this. The gain knob being in the same position on each amp does not neccasarly mean the subs are seeing equal power. This would deff. explain why it seems one subs getting more power then the other.hope all of this helps you.
June 19, 200916 yr Author as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.if you have the subs this hot for too long, you are most likely in danger of damaging the coils.
June 19, 200916 yr Author as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.if you have the subs this hot for too long, you are most likely in danger of damaging the coils.thats why I shut it all off completely. I checked the subs, nothing looks damage. the only thing i found weird was the subs made a weird noise when you like pushed on the or whatever but im assuming that ok cause they were like that the day i got them. and when i say push i dont mean a lot of force at all lol..
June 19, 200916 yr Admin as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.if you have the subs this hot for too long, you are most likely in danger of damaging the coils.thats why I shut it all off completely. I checked the subs, nothing looks damage. the only thing i found weird was the subs made a weird noise when you like pushed on the or whatever but im assuming that ok cause they were like that the day i got them. and when i say push i dont mean a lot of force at all lol..try and push down straigh down on it with equal force so that it goes straight down. If you push from the side you will hear a rubbing sound. If you push from the top with equal force and still hear it, then you could have some trouble.
June 19, 200916 yr Author as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.if you have the subs this hot for too long, you are most likely in danger of damaging the coils.thats why I shut it all off completely. I checked the subs, nothing looks damage. the only thing i found weird was the subs made a weird noise when you like pushed on the or whatever but im assuming that ok cause they were like that the day i got them. and when i say push i dont mean a lot of force at all lol..try and push down straigh down on it with equal force so that it goes straight down. If you push from the side you will hear a rubbing sound. If you push from the top with equal force and still hear it, then you could have some trouble.yeah when i pushed in the center it didn't make the noise only the sides. subs are fine, thankfully.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin as far as the smell: if you smell this again, please just drop the volume knob. Obviously something isn't set right and you really should have someone take a look at it that has a bit more experience as we where talking about before.sealing the subs with silicone in theroy is ok, but you're just making a mess really with your subs and box and really is un-needed.the smell was the silicone, because the sub was literally melting the silicone... lol.if you have the subs this hot for too long, you are most likely in danger of damaging the coils.thats why I shut it all off completely. I checked the subs, nothing looks damage. the only thing i found weird was the subs made a weird noise when you like pushed on the or whatever but im assuming that ok cause they were like that the day i got them. and when i say push i dont mean a lot of force at all lol..try and push down straigh down on it with equal force so that it goes straight down. If you push from the side you will hear a rubbing sound. If you push from the top with equal force and still hear it, then you could have some trouble.yeah when i pushed in the center it didn't make the noise only the sides. subs are fine, thankfully.Like I said before, you've got a decent investment in this setup, I would strongly suggest you take it to your friend at your local shop and have them set this up properly. You could even print out this thread with the "how to strap" and that should be great to go off.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin on a side note, the power wiring/fuses/setup looks great. Just need to iron out the settings and strapping and you should be good to go.
June 19, 200916 yr Author on a side note, the power wiring/fuses/setup looks great. Just need to iron out the settings and strapping and you should be good to go.why thank you sir lol fixing the rest in about 6 hours lol.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin on a side note, the power wiring/fuses/setup looks great. Just need to iron out the settings and strapping and you should be good to go.why thank you sir lol fixing the rest in about 6 hours lol.Great to hear keep us updated in this thread how it turns out.
June 19, 200916 yr Mark I tell you what.........You are the KING of Customer Service hands down!!!I tip my hat once again!
June 19, 200916 yr A tip on the sealing of the sub to the enclosure.....Don't use silicone....The vapors are harmful to most glues.Try going to Homedepot or Lowes for thin weatherstripping.You can trim it to any width you need.Get the thinner stuff, like 1/4 or 1/8" thickness.The width won't matter b/c you can trim it after the sub's installed.
June 19, 200916 yr the smell could have also been the glue on the sub wearing off since its new. usually when you first start playin a new sub it smells cuz the glue.
June 19, 200916 yr Author A tip on the sealing of the sub to the enclosure.....Don't use silicone....The vapors are harmful to most glues.Try going to Homedepot or Lowes for thin weatherstripping.You can trim it to any width you need.Get the thinner stuff, like 1/4 or 1/8" thickness.The width won't matter b/c you can trim it after the sub's installed.thanks i'll look into it before i put the subs back into the box and everything.the smell could have also been the glue on the sub wearing off since its new. usually when you first start playin a new sub it smells cuz the glue.yeah i thought of that afterwards.
June 19, 200916 yr Author any progress on this today?yes but i have a question for you mark, the RCA wires in your picture, im confused how would i set mine up considering there different? because I have a main set of RCA's running from the head unit then a sec pair, so which wires would i use and which ones would i not, if you look in my pictures you should understand what i am talking about.Note: when I say which ones shouldn't I use I am talking about the Second pair. Because in that picture, it shows only one plugged into the main and and one into the slave amp, since i have four input on the second and not the fancy one that you have in the picture lol, which ones should i not use does it matte? Im guessing not, but I wanna make sure.another note, can i use regular speaker wire in place of the 8 guage wire or should i go buy some? lol Edited June 19, 200916 yr by Matt C.
June 19, 200916 yr Author Ok here is the amp wiring, note i'll be replacing the wiring with 8 where the 8 gauge is needed, this is just to see if i am doing this right.
June 19, 200916 yr Admin looks good. just make sure the subs are wired correctly on the coils like the diagram I gave you. Upgrade to 8awg asap and you should be good. From here make sure to get your settings on the amp correct.good job
June 20, 200916 yr Author looks good. just make sure the subs are wired correctly on the coils like the diagram I gave you. Upgrade to 8awg asap and you should be good. From here make sure to get your settings on the amp correct.good job ok here's the subs,ok now i labeled positice and negative here because of the amps, + is obviously the master and - is the slave. Heres were my confusion was Mark, and if what I am thinking is correct I should've done this whole setup myself, because I would've never had any problems in the beginning but instead I had matt help. But Do I take the two wires from the positive terminal, which is the master amp and put the two wires coming from that terminal into the remaining two positive terminals on the subs? Vise versa for the Negative terminals from the slave amp?lol excuse the silicone extras, i still have to clean it off. Edited June 20, 200916 yr by Matt C.
June 20, 200916 yr Admin from here just wire each sub to it's respective terminal. since the terminals both go to the same place, you'll then have a 2 ohm load.
June 20, 200916 yr Author from here just wire each sub to it's respective terminal. since the terminals both go to the same place, you'll then have a 2 ohm load.so just wire red to red black to black? arent the wires going to the terminals like all negative and all positive? Now I am confused lmao, like to i take one from each terminal to each sub? or do i take both for each terminal to each sub?
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