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Posted

Well, I figured I'd start a thread laying everything out from start to finish. Here goes. Some things are missing like power wire routing and alarm install, but there's no way in hell I'm taking my fender off again just to take some pics. Here goes.

Let's start with the Omnifi. I think many have seen it, but here goes.

I started with this.

10002198pn.jpg

And finished with this.

10002222ql.jpg

Perfect routing of the cable. This necessitated desoldering the wires inside the circuit board, but it was only 5 simple wires and they were spaced far enough apart for my iron to get them.

10002237sd.jpg

Some finished pics.

Now you see it.

10002267kc.jpg

Now you don't.

10002276yh.jpg

Passenger side for comparison.

10002258ap.jpg

More.

10003471mx.jpg

10003486wi.jpg

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Here you can see the RCAs nicely routed away from any power wire.

10003505vl.jpg

Can you see them?

Beginnings of the sub enclosure/amprack.

All the Spectrum is dried.

10002283ez.jpg

Everything taped up and the frame is halfway done.

10003439iv.jpg

10003441nu.jpg

My slick custom mount for the fuse holder.

10003451gu.jpg

Turned out very well and allows for access to the battery hold down mounting bolt incase of an emergency.

Fuse holder installed.

10003464to.jpg

nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

  • Author
nice stuff, how many volts will that red top send to the amp with the car on? what about a yellow top?

It won't send any with the vehicle running.

lies

I don't lie, I'm intelligent.

The battery is nothing but another load on the alt once the vehicle is running. If your electrical system is drawing juice from the battery while running, your alt is failing.

^^lol

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keep us in the loop during the updates

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very cool lookin Ryan but plywood?

For the fiberglass work, plywood is a much better base. MDF when subjected to a lot of movement will become brittle and break. THe plywood will readily accept any vibration or movement without this worry. It also accepts and grips T-nuts better than MDF which is critical in this install in which I will have MANY hidden fasteners.

I have a very tight chassis setup and every little bump, dip, crown, whatever, is absorbed and translated back through the car. This is not a cruiser and you feel EVERYTHING when you drive it. I'm not taking any chances with anything breaking here.

Whats goin on with the back seats?

Back seats are not needed in this car, so they go bye bye. I had a rear seat delete in there previously that I used to run and this is similar. Actually my in my 95 I had almost this exact same setup albeit with a BA 12.5LF.

Cobra's don't ever need rear seats FOO...

Rear Psgrs = more weight = worse performance

:duh: :D

LoL

then again.... he is adding wires, amps, and at least one woofer :(

;)

  • Author

And the amps are monsters. Anyways, Ford never should have put a rear seat in the SN95s anyways. There's not really a lot of room back there for anything other than kids. Hell, you're cramped in the front if you're pushing 6'.

looks good so far :D

i have the same ANL fuse holder you do :)

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