about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

Edited August 5, 200916 yr by 144dbFiBl15

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

I have the same problem.

Been thinking about a 3 way with solid mid bass drivers.

Curious to what is suggested for you.

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

I would first suggest to cross your sub at a higher hz around 70 or 80 to help out a little bit with the lack of bass a higher ranges.

you say you went active but you still baught passive component speakers? what speakers are you running up front? link to your thread where m5 helped you would be helpful too.

on the install side you will want to seal the access wholes in the doors FIRST. then we can talk about the rest

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

I have the same problem.

Been thinking about a 3 way with solid mid bass drivers.

Curious to what is suggested for you.

i went with a 2 way myself, sls 8in midbass in the doors and a 3in full range, on axis, in the a piller. much simpler then a 3 way for a beginner like myself.

Edited August 5, 200916 yr by lithium

OK these are the speakers I bought HERE . I chose them bc you can bI-amp them with the crossover. I still have 4 chs powering the fronts only, each tweet and mid still on its own ch. I tried a little polly fill behind the door pods but not much help. I wish i could show you a pic of them but I don't have my camera (im in Mexico for work) they image the pass mid at the drivers ear and the driver mid at the passengers, they are sealed I don't know the space, but if I had to guess maybe .2 cubes each. If you guys cant help me i think im going to stick a shit ton of power to them and see what happens. and then get new speakers shortly after

What frequency is the highpass crossover for the mids set at?

Not sure I can take too much credit for helping...I'd never rec'd a sealed enclosure for the mid in a 2 way. While it can be done it takes more than just building one box. You are choking them big time and need to open that up to let them breath. On top of that it would really help to use a driver that had some midbass capability and considering you are running active that wouldn't be ones in a comp set.

I must have glossed over the sealed in .2 cubes part. I agree, you are likely choking the mid. Granted I haven't heard all speakers, but I haven't heard one yet that sounded good when it was sealed like that. Especially ones marketed for car audio use, because they are generally designed with infinite baffle application in the doors in mind. Sealing them is the opposite of what you probably want to do.

My flight gets back in on Saturday, I will cut the backs of those out to free air them. More then likely I am going to put those in my GFs car bc she has a blown left front (still still stock). SO, lets just cut to the chase and get some suggestions from you guys on what new speakers I should buy ( what you guys have tried with success) I have my sub crossed at 63 htz with a 24 db slope the, mids run from 100 htz @18db all the way to 3.15 htz @ 18db and last the tweets are from 2.25 and up at 12db slope.

Edited August 6, 200916 yr by 144dbFiBl15

I forgot to ask this earlier, but have you tried switching the phase on one of the mids? Sometimes that helps midbass response drastically.

I forgot to ask this earlier, but have you tried switching the phase on one of the mids? Sometimes that helps midbass response drastically.

Yeah I did change the phase of the mids and the width was night and day with the left reversed and the right normal it sound like the speakers are an extra foot outside of the doors. as for the tweets I dint notice any change either way

My flight gets back in on Saturday, I will cut the backs of those out to free air them. More then likely I am going to put those in my GFs car bc she has a blown left front (still still stock). SO, lets just cut to the chase and get some suggestions from you guys on what new speakers I should buy ( what you guys have tried with success) I have my sub crossed at 63 htz with a 24 db slope the, mids run from 100 htz @18db all the way to 3.15 htz @ 18db and last the tweets are from 2.25 and up at 12db slope.

Huh?

Sub to 63Hz

Mids 100 to 3.15kHz

Tweets 2.25kHz+

If so you need to switch that up a bunch. You should underlap your tweet and mid it will make things sound better quick.

As for recommendations what sort of space and budget do you have?

My flight gets back in on Saturday, I will cut the backs of those out to free air them. More then likely I am going to put those in my GFs car bc she has a blown left front (still still stock). SO, lets just cut to the chase and get some suggestions from you guys on what new speakers I should buy ( what you guys have tried with success) I have my sub crossed at 63 htz with a 24 db slope the, mids run from 100 htz @18db all the way to 3.15 htz @ 18db and last the tweets are from 2.25 and up at 12db slope.

Huh?

Sub to 63Hz

Mids 100 to 3.15kHz

Tweets 2.25kHz+

If so you need to switch that up a bunch. You should underlap your tweet and mid it will make things sound better quick.

As for recommendations what sort of space and budget do you have?

OK so should I move the tweet up or the mid down to obtain the underlap??? as for the budget I just got myself a nice chunk of change to go to Mexico so I can swing 1000$ right now for the four speakers I would like to see a new 4ch in that buget too (i dont like mine) What did you guys have in mind in my range???

$1000 can easily buy pretty much any pair of mids and tweets

What are your mounting locations, size limitations, listening preferences, and of course is there anything that you have heard that you really like?

$1000 can easily buy pretty much any pair of mids and tweets

What are your mounting locations, size limitations, listening preferences, and of course is there anything that you have heard that you really like?

Right now I have the tweets in the sails and the mids are in the pods that are on the lowest, farthest forward portion of the door panel (Stock location) just imaged twords you. I have heard a 3 way set up at a local audio shop, but i don't know the brand, model, etc... I do know that it was a set of tweets, 3 inch, and a set of 8 for the mid bass the tweets and the 3s where in the A-pillar and the 8s where in the kicks. I listen to rock and country, I like my mid bass short, tight, and punchy. As for the size of the new ones I am going to be too picky i am willing to spend a few days re-doing doors and sails if that's what it takes.

Any pics of your current mounting?

Somebody gave you $1000 to go to Mexico but instead you are going to use the money to buy audio gear? What about going to Mexico?

Somebody gave you $1000 to go to Mexico but instead you are going to use the money to buy audio gear? What about going to Mexico?

No No No I have to go to mexico for work and the company gave a a little incentive if you will, to stay on and off for about 3 months and get things off the ground here. As for the pics I have them but I cannot load them bc the guy from huges net never showed up today to install my new high speed internet. I still have dial up bc we live out in the middle of nowhere, and when I try to load them here it takes about 10 mins and then it will just come back and tell me that the network has timed out.....

OMG I totaly forgot about these photos these are with my Very first set of Bostons but you still get the idea. now I have the tweets glassed onto the sails not just mounted using the kit it comes with.

pic 1

pic 2

Edited August 7, 200916 yr by 144dbFiBl15

Nice work, but having such small enclosures is really cramping those drivers.

Open them up into the doors, seal off the back wave and think how much of a driver you can fit in there space wise Curious as well if a 3-4" tweeter will fit.

Thx I tried many versions before I came up with those. Well as for size I think an 8 is probably the biggest I would go for mid bass, and the tweets I could go with a 3 or 4 if I put them up on the A pillars, if they stay in the sails 2 inch is the biggest I could go bc of clearance issues with the dash when the door closes. I would like to stay with a 6.5 for mid bass though so I can use what I already have built, but don't let that effect your suggestions I want what will work, not what will be easy to do.

Bump.... for suggestion

Bump.... for suggestion

x2