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  • Author

Looking good man, should really sound good when done!! I am sure your dad is gonna flip the first time he sees it, then kill you after he hears it!!!

He finally found out what I was doing. I couldn't deny it when he walked into the garage and saw me putting the subs in right behind the front seat ahahaha. My family is disgusted with me.

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  • jcarter1885
    jcarter1885

    It's the AM.

  • jcarter1885
    jcarter1885

    I was just being a post whore.

  • Aaron Clinton
    Aaron Clinton

    Any little thing you can do to smooth air flow will help. Jacob did a nice topic on this a few months back showing pictures as he went along and the increases he made from them.

Looking good man, should really sound good when done!! I am sure your dad is gonna flip the first time he sees it, then kill you after he hears it!!!

He finally found out what I was doing. I couldn't deny it when he walked into the garage and saw me putting the subs in right behind the front seat ahahaha. My family is disgusted with me.

lmao

:peepwall:

  • Author
:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

put down the popcorn and get back to work :)

This is not a damn movie theater. BUILD YOUR WALL!!!!!

:)

This is not a damn movie theater. BUILD YOUR WALL!!!!!

:)

Nicely Put

  • Author

This is not a damn movie theater. BUILD YOUR WALL!!!!!

:)

I don't know what your talking about. This is a suspense film :peepwall:

  • Admin

Put on helmets if you have them. ;)

This build is amazing. If you're ever up around Boston, let me know cause I gotta hear this.

That is some diesel threaded rod. Looks great.

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine.

1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

  • Author

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine.

1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

Sean, I told you they make 1" threaded rod right?

Jesus Christ!

If you did i forgot...

I've never seen 3\4" have problems so i dont think 1" would ever be necessary.

We have no excuses not to get it done this upcoming weekend lol. This time for real, it has to get done. I want to see the windshield explode!

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine.

1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

Sean, I told you they make 1" threaded rod right?

mcmaster-carr sells 2" threaded rod

  • Author

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine.

1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

Sean, I told you they make 1" threaded rod right?

mcmaster-carr sells 2" threaded rod

That is highly unnecessary lol. I don't even want to know the tinsel strength on that lol.

  • Author

lucky76build5.jpg

this pic shows parts of the double sheeting port on top where the blue colored parts and opposite pieces alike are NOT to be there.

This is to allow a port plug to slide into the port and use extra wood glued to the outside of the plug to fit nicely into the parts of the port that is missing.

This will hold it steady.

All you have to do is secure it in the front.

You should make a front base so it goes over the outside of the baffle and fit's nicely or u can cut 0.75" of depth off the top part of the port so the front port plug base is flush with the baffle.. doesn't matter, all cosmetic work from there.

Just remember to secure the plug.

Making a base which covers the top port and baffle slightly will keep it from going in the box any further than necessary, just need to secure it from pushing out or rattling.

Do NOT make the port plug as tight as possible! You will regret it. You can leave about 1\8" space on top and bottom of the slits to slide into. If it starts to rattle, you can always run thin material in the slit to prevent it from moving but i highly doubt this is necessary.

So Josh was looking through the schematic and noticed that we might have screwed up the port. The way we did it was a double baffle on top and single baffle on the bottom. We have not attached the port plug holder yet. Is this correct or was the port itself supposed to be a complete single baffle and the port plug holder considered the second layer?

If we are wrong, how much could the double top layer baffle effect the output?

3\4" is all i use and recommend. If you need anything smaller, wooden dowels is fine.

1\4 and 1\2" rod tend to bow at long runs.. 3\4"... eh, not quite.

Sean, I told you they make 1" threaded rod right?

mcmaster-carr sells 2" threaded rod

That is highly unnecessary lol. I don't even want to know the tinsel strength on that lol.

Believe me I know, just thought I'd throw it out there. According to Mcmaster, the tensile strength is a minimum of 53,000 psi with a rockwell hardness of B61.

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