I wanted to go ahead and create the thread because you gonna need to finalize your decision(s) very soon as i am onto you now.

As far as i know, u want 2 12" BTLS off of a 3500d....

If this is true, it will be fired forward.

I'll be rootin through my PMs again to find your dimensions so i can start your build.

If you need an entire design done in your trunk, give me ALL dimensions so i can model battery and amp(s) mounting too if u need it, otherwise, i'll just design your box.

Let me know what you want it tuned too.. otherwise, i'll tune it to 32hz for daily and interchangeable for competition.

'Alright it has been requested I start a Build Log so that's what I am going to do....

Trunk: 40Wx17.5Hx41D

Equipment being used (entire car): Pioneer DEH-P7100BT cdplayer, JL Audio C2-600X speakers (Front two doors), SAX-50.4 (in trunk for front end), 200 amp amp alt by Excessive Amperage, Kolossus Fleks 4 Gauge 4 Channel Amplifier Installation Kit, Kolossus Fleks 0 Gauge Power Kit, Kolossus Fleks 8 Gauge From AMP to SUB, Big 3 with Kolossus Fleks Kable 1/0 Black, Powermaster XS DC3100 Battery chained to my starting battery with 0 gauge wire, Stinger Digital Voltage Gauge [blue]

Box Material: Probably some Oak 1 inch thick wood.

Edited September 25, 200915 yr by Hell-Razor

check for my build lost i posted as soon as its approved (it may not have been usually its up by now)

Box Material: Probably some Oak 1 inch thick wood.

Don't use solid oak, huge waste of money and a terrible box material.

What would you recommend then?

MDF or a good voidfree plywood typically or a 11 ply or greater.

Well why not the traditional MDF or even ply? I am personally wanting to try Trupan Light and see how it does, but it is hard to get a hold of. My lumber distributors here in town have never even heard of it!!!!

OK, i'm gonna start working on a design for you for 2 DC Level 4 12s. I'm thinkin that you may want to back down your amp choice a little unless you can just keep the volume or gain control attenuated some during music playback. I run mine like i suggested to you last night but i only play for no more than 30 sec at a time before i attenuate the volume due to how loud it is and sometimes... just sometimes i do get the coil heated up.

So, i'll be tryin designs for you this weekend.

Alright. I can step the amp down (to what?). And the battery you recommended is out of stock for all the websites I found. So I may just want to go back to the D3100 battery sense I am going to save money on the amp. Oh an what size fuse should I get with the amp you're recommending? I would like to try and get everything ordered that I need to before you finish the design.

Edited September 26, 200915 yr by Hell-Razor

too late, design finished, lol

We already talked earlier so ur decision should be final or around that by now.

Here is your design-

This is what it looks like for competition use-

Box external -

37" wide

25" deep

17.5" high

Box Internal without port displacement-

35.5" wide

22.75" deeo

16" high

Double baffle used!

Port build internal dimensions-

16" high

8" wide

Internal box specs-

The angle piece is placed as follows-

Measuring from the back left corner on the INSIDE-

From the back, measuring to the baffle, go down 10" (outer mdf layer, 9.25" inner layer)

From the back, measuring to the right, go 21.75"(outer mdf layer, 21" inner layer)

you may only need to brace some walls with brackets or small runs of wood, no wall-2-wall bracing required.

Box tuning specs-

16x8" = 128sqin of port tuned to 46.5Hz Competition use port.

Here is your daily design-

This piece will slide into the port to adjust port tuning.

This piece is- 16" high x 4" wide x 20.25" deep.

This will allow 4" of width throughout the port now.

The port will now be - 64sqin of port tuned to roughly 33.5Hz

What you will want to do is build this plug and modify the internal port volume so the plug can only go back 20.25" deep.

How do you do that? there are many ways really... You can glue very small pieces of wood just tall enough to stop the piece from sliding back any further once it hits the piece and another on the side so it stays uniform while you slide it back.

Remember, when building the plug, even though i said what the size of he plug is, make it about 1\8" smaller on the height. You do not want it perfect because it will be almost impossible to slide in and out. Trust me, i've seen it happen before. It's ok if you have a little "wiggle" room, just nothing too bad. I wouldn't go any smaller than 1\4" though...

so you can make the plug as small as 15.75" high x 4" wide x 20.25" deep.

I would build the plug, slide it in, then trace around the plug and choose where u want to place these little barrier stops at... Try not to make them large... 0.25" tall is plenty and just a 2-4 inches long is plenty. Don't fill the port with barriers all the way around the plug either. Just put one in the back and one on the side and that's it.

you definitly come up with good ideas

ill have u design me a competition box next spring for sure if u dont mind

Just about ready to get everything setup here with building the box. But, where should I run the wires? Should I do it through the port or cut a little hole between the two subs at the bottom? Also, should I mount the amps behind where the subs are firing? I wont want to rattle them to death. (my subs will fire forward). There is nothign really stable though to mount them to when it comes to elsewhere in the trunk

Waiting for pics

yep you could just cut out a hole in the back/bottem to run the speaker wires threw

if u do attach the amp to the box get some rubber gromlets between

Yea, no amp to the box. Dont want to rattle it to death. Im thinkin to the back seats and push the box back a few inches.....

Two sexy ass beasts .

Two sexy ass beasts .

When the UPS guy walked up with it the first thing out of my mouth was "oh my god, I didn't know it was THAT big". I had to show the UPS guy after lol.

Dear god that 3500d is beautiful

thing out of my mouth was "oh my god, I didn't know it was THAT big". I had to show the UPS guy after lol.

Thats what she said lol

Dear god that 3500d is beautiful

I can only imagine how much longer the 4500 is

i miss my big saz already, this does not help at all.

is the subs up for ordering now?

chop

I have changed my subs to:

a single 15" level 5 DC. this thing should BAAANG when its on the 3500D

I have changed my subs to:

a single 15" level 5 DC. this thing should BAAANG when its on the 3500D

OMG............... i like that too, in fact i am really into that idea, you got the new design drafted up yet?

so like is the level 5 on the way?

come on now, don't kep secrets.....lol

chop

Sub being ordered sunday sometime. Ill be tossing up pictures of ALL my gear sometime tomorrow =)

Your new box-

3.5 cuft tuned to all kinds of notes....

Comp port-

16" high x 7" wide = 112sqin of port tuned to 44.5hz

Port wall attaches behind side wall and goes back 23"

Daily port-

16" high x 4" Wide = 64sqin of port tuned to 34hz

Port plug consists of 4 sheets of .75" MDF plugged. This piece is 26.75" long and shall be flush with the outside side wall leaving 4" of width between left wall and this plug.

Make sure you install some small bump stops in there so the daily port can't go back any further than necessary. also, make sure the daily port plug is trimmed slightly so it can be pulled out easy. So for example, make the plug 15.8" tall x 3" wide

Box Specs -

External-

31.5" Wide

17.5" High

23.75" Deep

Internal-

30" Wide

16" High

21.5" Deep (Double Baffle)

All corner pieces are 2" in both directions.

The first pic is comp port, second pic is daily port-