October 10, 200915 yr looks good.x2, I may have to get you to design a box for me for a 15" or 2-12" subwoofers when I decide which setup I want.
October 11, 200915 yr Author OK, here is revised version. The last pic was used with the wrong width so this new design will work-Specs-External - 42" Wide14.25" High23.5" DeepInternal - 40.5" Wide12.75" High22" Deep2.8 cuft Tuned to ~32HzPort - 83sqin of port tuned to ~32hz12.75" High x 6.5" WideKeep port width 6.5" Wide throughout.ALL PORT WALLS are 15.5" Deep spaced 6.5" from each other.Make sure the first port wall(where port exits at to outside) is mounted behind the baffle instead of on the side.All corner pieces are 2" in each direction.Cut pieces (pay no attention to picture)Bottom - 42" Wide x 23.5" DeepBack - 42" Wide x 12.75" HighLeft side wall - 22" Deep x 12.75" HighRight side wall - 22.75" Deep x 12.75" HighBaffle - 34.75" Wide x 12.75" HighTop - 42" Wide x 23.5" DeepPlace back wall on floor, left and right side wall in front of back wall, baffle in front of side walls, top on top of everything.
October 12, 200915 yr it's designs like these in post like this that make mine look so ................. fail!looks like a badass design there, i would so be at the hardware store!good luck with the build,chop
October 12, 200915 yr OK, here is revised version. The last pic was used with the wrong width so this new design will work-Specs-External - 42" Wide14.25" High23.5" DeepInternal - 40.5" Wide12.75" High22" Deep2.8 cuft Tuned to ~32HzPort - 83sqin of port tuned to ~32hz12.75" High x 6.5" WideKeep port width 6.5" Wide throughout.ALL PORT WALLS are 15.5" Deep spaced 6.5" from each other.Make sure the first port wall(where port exits at to outside) is mounted behind the baffle instead of on the side.All corner pieces are 2" in each direction.Cut pieces (pay no attention to picture)Bottom - 42" Wide x 23.5" DeepBack - 42" Wide x 12.75" HighLeft side wall - 22" Deep x 12.75" HighRight side wall - 22.75" Deep x 12.75" HighBaffle - 34.75" Wide x 12.75" HighTop - 42" Wide x 23.5" DeepPlace back wall on floor, left and right side wall in front of back wall, baffle in front of side walls, top on top of everything.Im trying to figure out how long that port is to see if im doing mines right, whats the length of that port (appreciate ya). I got 46.5 " long x 6.5 " wide x 12.75" high
October 12, 200915 yr hehe just a little over 70"Definately shouldnt of been doing the math after a night of drinking, I forgot to add the width and one of the last port board. What would be the difference in doing a standard slot port (L shaped) and the one you designed?
October 12, 200915 yr Author well, the sub would fire directly into the port by the time the port length ended. Definitely do not want that.
October 13, 200915 yr Admin Looks good, just would suggest a double baffle for a sub woofer that heavy.
October 14, 200915 yr Looks good, just would suggest a double baffle for a sub woofer that heavy. what about if he has some sort of support in the box. im building a new box and i didnt want to double baffle it. im going to make a counter sink so i didnt want three layers on top of my box. could i just put dowels inside of it to keep it strong?
October 14, 200915 yr Looks good, just would suggest a double baffle for a sub woofer that heavy. what about if he has some sort of support in the box. im building a new box and i didnt want to double baffle it. im going to make a counter sink so i didnt want three layers on top of my box. could i just put dowels inside of it to keep it strong?Any material can be used for support (metal rods, dowels, 2x4's, etc.).
October 14, 200915 yr Author if u are unsure if the baffle can handle speaker weight... before installing sub(s), install cross bracing from the baffle to the back FIRST and secure it tightly. then once all that is done, then mount your subs. (this isn't recommended for THIS box in this thread as it would only cause port flow restriction.)However, some subs like the new sundown sub that is coming out is so heavy that it needs support for the motor just to disperse it's weight so it doesn't rip out of the baffle.this was shown few months ago but there are other ways around that happening...The baffle, if already cross-braced, should have had 1\4" allthread run through each mounting hole of every sub and secured from the other side, and GLUED onto the back baffle to secure it if ever needed to be uninstalled.This wouldn't put pressure on just the screws but the entire baffle itself. Having put pressure on baffle would be bad.. but when braced properly, then there is nothing to worry about in that situation either.I believe the baffle should be fine with this design on single baffle. It doesnt hrut to add an extra layer to the outside if the user wants too but i've had 45lb subs mounted to a single baffle wider that this without bracing without problems so i don't really see a BTL which doesnt way no more than 10-20lbs heavier than the sub i used in example to make a difference but it doesnt hurt to add if he so pleases.Another example-My wallMy wall holds 4 15s(33lbs each) on a double baffle and each sub cutout only has about 1.5" apart from each other. When i first picked it up.. that baffle was so light and drilled so close together.. many people thought it would just fold on me... IT probably would have if no cross bracing was used. This example is more severe of a time to brace a wall.. Such small thin wood between each cut out. After running 3 3\4" allthread runs through the baffle, this baffle is so strong, i bet i could hold 4 Level 4 XLs in it no problem and they are almost 60lb per sub... Now, the level 5s, hehe i prob have to redo the baffle for them.. They 80lb per sub,
October 14, 200915 yr I am curious, why so much port area for (1) 12"? I would make that port smaller and do a single bend port that runs along the back wall.You could do 12.75 x 4.75 and have only one bend while still having 60 sqin of port area. More than enough for a single 12". I assume this is a daily box and not a fart box, since it is tuned to 32 Hz.
October 14, 200915 yr Author yep but goin in a cherokee and want some good potential out of this box.I normally would go smaller as most would but you will get a lot of pressure out of a design like this. Space was not an issue but i didnt want it very tall either.
October 14, 200915 yr I am going to guess you would get more out of the box with less bends in the port and still more than enough port area.Do you have a router table? Last box I did with that many bends, I used PVC to round the U-turns like this:Smooth airflow through the ports is a good thing. . .
October 15, 200915 yr if u are unsure if the baffle can handle speaker weight... before installing sub(s), install cross bracing from the baffle to the back FIRST and secure it tightly. then once all that is done, then mount your subs. (this isn't recommended for THIS box in this thread as it would only cause port flow restriction.)However, some subs like the new sundown sub that is coming out is so heavy that it needs support for the motor just to disperse it's weight so it doesn't rip out of the baffle.this was shown few months ago but there are other ways around that happening...The baffle, if already cross-braced, should have had 1\4" allthread run through each mounting hole of every sub and secured from the other side, and GLUED onto the back baffle to secure it if ever needed to be uninstalled.This wouldn't put pressure on just the screws but the entire baffle itself. Having put pressure on baffle would be bad.. but when braced properly, then there is nothing to worry about in that situation either.I believe the baffle should be fine with this design on single baffle. It doesnt hrut to add an extra layer to the outside if the user wants too but i've had 45lb subs mounted to a single baffle wider that this without bracing without problems so i don't really see a BTL which doesnt way no more than 10-20lbs heavier than the sub i used in example to make a difference but it doesnt hurt to add if he so pleases.Another example-My wallMy wall holds 4 15s(33lbs each) on a double baffle and each sub cutout only has about 1.5" apart from each other. When i first picked it up.. that baffle was so light and drilled so close together.. many people thought it would just fold on me... IT probably would have if no cross bracing was used. This example is more severe of a time to brace a wall.. Such small thin wood between each cut out. After running 3 3\4" allthread runs through the baffle, this baffle is so strong, i bet i could hold 4 Level 4 XLs in it no problem and they are almost 60lb per sub... Now, the level 5s, hehe i prob have to redo the baffle for them.. They 80lb per sub, i have a cvr styler box so i was thinking about putting a 2x4 fromt the top to the bottom but hwere should i put it?
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