Im getting 2 amp kits from knukonceptz. They are both 0 gauge. One is for my amp wiring and one is for my big 3. One of my questions is when my battery grounds it grouds to the frame and the block. Do i need to replace both? And where should i look for my block ground. Btw i drive a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.5 liter. I run a kicker kx1200.1 and its pushing a kicker L7 15 D2. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Never replace in the Big 3 just add. A good place to add a ground is on a bolt on the alt bracket. You could add to the firewall or to the vehichle frame as well.

Never replace in the Big 3 just add. A good place to add a ground is on a bolt on the alt bracket. You could add to the firewall or to the vehichle frame as well.

Yea i know add but should i add both where do u think the stock engine ground is?

Never replace in the Big 3 just add. A good place to add a ground is on a bolt on the alt bracket. You could add to the firewall or to the vehichle frame as well.

Yea i know add but should i add both where do u think the stock engine ground is?

As far as stock engine ground in your truck, look towards the back of the engine, back by the firewall. Sometimes their will be a braided wire gong from the firewall to the block. At least that is what my truck has.

Thank you ill look

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Never replace in the Big 3 just add. A good place to add a ground is on a bolt on the alt bracket. You could add to the firewall or to the vehichle frame as well.

Just curious as to why you say dont replace the stock wire only add on (not trying to start an argument, I replaced my wire and havent had a problem), just hoping it wont hurt in the long run or something since I did mine different?

I just replaced my two ground wires(battery to cars frame has two runs of wire, while engine block to frame only has one run) only for now to 1/0AWG and sit at 14.8v (hot summer day), 15.1v (cool fall day) and 15.3v (cold ass fall day) when car is first turned on and no accessories with stock batt and alternator.

Never replace in the Big 3 just add. A good place to add a ground is on a bolt on the alt bracket. You could add to the firewall or to the vehichle frame as well.

Just curious as to why you say dont replace the stock wire only add on (not trying to start an argument, I replaced my wire and havent had a problem), just hoping it wont hurt in the long run or something since I did mine different?

I just replaced my two ground wires(battery to cars frame has two runs of wire, while engine block to frame only has one run) only for now to 1/0AWG and sit at 14.8v (hot summer day), 15.1v (cool fall day) and 15.3v (cold ass fall day) when car is first turned on and no accessories with stock batt and alternator.

I guess I say don't replace as it will creat more work is all! Also sometimes the factory grounds can be a bitch to replace, so easier to add imo.

Ok appreciate ya for the info just wanted to make sure .

Ya much easier to just add the wires then remove them. I started to do mine but changed my mind. If you want to remove all the wire for some reason, you dont have to replace the cables either.

Ok thanks yall why does my battery ground to the block and frame?

i have a question, my alt power goes to some sort of solenoid thing, and is it ok if i just run a 1/0 wire from the alt to the battery?

or should i run wire to the solenoid thing? and from there to the battery or just go around it?

i found out what the solenoid is, its my starter solenoid.

still, my alternator being stock (130 amp), should i run 1/0 or just dont worry about it?

i found out what the solenoid is, its my starter solenoid.

still, my alternator being stock (130 amp), should i run 1/0 or just dont worry about it?

Since I didnt upgrade my alternator and being my battery in the trunk, I just left the factory 4 gauge wire from the alternator to battery (positive) and still got excellent results, its up to you personally.

Since I didnt upgrade my alternator and being my battery in the trunk, I just left the factory 4 gauge wire from the alternator to battery (positive) and still got excellent results, its up to you personally.

hey jay cee your getting 15v with a stock alternator?

Since I didnt upgrade my alternator and being my battery in the trunk, I just left the factory 4 gauge wire from the alternator to battery (positive) and still got excellent results, its up to you personally.

hey jay cee your getting 15v with a stock alternator?

After upgrading my main batteries ground from 4 gauge to 2 -1/0 AWG wires and upgrading my engine block to cars frame from 4 gauge to 1/0 AWG wire I sit at high voltages on a stock alternator and stock battery. Honestly it depends on the weather (since CCA are more on a battery than CA yeah my voltage does get up to 15.3 when I first turn car on but after it warms up its in the high 14's maybe at 15volts even till I move around just depends on how cold it is). Usually on a normal temperature day I will start at 15.0 or 15.1v and it will go down to 14.8 once car start warming up and moving.

I started my big 3 today. I did my battery to ground before my voltage dropped as low as 11 volts and now its steady around 12 volts. Im gonna do my alternator to battery positive and alternator case to battery negative. Thats what i thought was a second battery ground its actually the ground from my alternators case. And i wired my amp with 0 gauge 2. So hopefully ill get better voltage from the rest of my big 3

I started my big 3 today. I did my battery to ground before my voltage dropped as low as 11 volts and now its steady around 12 volts. Im gonna do my alternator to battery positive and alternator case to battery negative. Thats what i thought was a second battery ground its actually the ground from my alternators case. And i wired my amp with 0 gauge 2. So hopefully ill get better voltage from the rest of my big 3

You dont have too but if you want an even stable voltage then do another wire from battery ground to cars frame.

Ok so another battery negative to ground? But do it to the chassis instead of the stock ground like the 1st battery negative to ground? Why jw

Ok so another battery negative to ground? But do it to the chassis instead of the stock ground like the 1st battery negative to ground? Why jw

No dont put it to another spot, run the wire the same place you ran the first battery ground wire (that was just how I worded it). Make sure you sanded the paint off since I know that most car manufacturers dont do that before they do ground wire.

The reason for the second ground is for a better and more stable voltage, you dont have to do it today or period but it will help in the long run (not required but recommended after I seen how it helped out my voltage).

Ok thanks jay cee youve been alot of help

No problem man, try to help others as much as I can.

I've been needing to do a big three upgrade on my car (1989 Nissan Pulsar 1.6 with two RF P1's, and a 15" Sony Xplod). It's not that the headlights dim bad at all or anything. I just want to be able to look under my hood and see some BIG ASS 1/0 gauge.

I've been needing to do a big three upgrade on my car (1989 Nissan Pulsar 1.6 with two RF P1's, and a 15" Sony Xplod). It's not that the headlights dim bad at all or anything. I just want to be able to look under my hood and see some BIG ASS 1/0 gauge.

Go ahead what are you waiting for?

I've been needing to do a big three upgrade on my car (1989 Nissan Pulsar 1.6 with two RF P1's, and a 15" Sony Xplod). It's not that the headlights dim bad at all or anything. I just want to be able to look under my hood and see some BIG ASS 1/0 gauge.

Go ahead what are you waiting for?

Well, I managed to snap the water inlet pipe right off of my heater core, so that kind of has first priority right now.