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Featured Replies

Posted

Hey guys.

Got a question concerning how much power to give a BTL.

My previous system was a loaded 12" BL @ 1ohm load, and pushed by a 1500D amplifier with gains at about 7/10 and 4V headunit @ 22/35.

I figure it was about 1200RMS?

Now, I see all these people with BTL's saying they push them with 3500RMS+. I just don't see how that's going to be possible..

I'm asking because I figured I could get away with running a 2500D amp for a single loaded 12" Fi BTL .

Should I really be looking at more powerful amps?

i always try and run a minimum of twice the rated power to all my subs but u gotta make sure that u don't reach the thermal or mechanical threshold while doing so.

More power requires smaller boxes and less to no clipping.

Also when people get 3500rms amps they (most of the time) are you using all of that power. I have a 3500D to a single 15" dc level 5 and it will be able to handle the power just fine. Even though I will probably only be giving it 2500 until I go to comps.

  • Author

More power requires smaller boxes and less to no clipping.

So the larger the box, the more power efficient it is?

So if I were to run a smaller box I would have to run more power to equal the sound I could get out of a larger box with less power?

Yes, you're right, bigger boxes= more efficient.

smaller box=better mechanical power handling.

Edited by kirill007

Bigger box means you do not have to have as much power to get to full stroke.

Regardless the key to the equation is subsonic filters, mindful of your gain(s) and volume knobs...most importantly no bass boost.

:ehh:

bass boost blows. like nick said, just be sure to set the subsonic filter about... oh 2 hz (i hope to god that's right) below what your box is tuned to. And set your gains right of course fing05.gif

i set my subsonic filter to maximum excursion without bottoming out. Subsonic filter settings vary with power applied... Sometimes you need not use it at all, other times, up in the 40s even if tuned below that...

It all depends on the install.

  • Author

OK, so with a smaller box more power is required to "fight" against the enclosure inefficiencies?

So, assuming I build a box that is 3.0cuft @ 32Hz for the BTL, then a 2500RMS amplifier would actually be a good match?

yeah you will be fine with that size box and power, just make sure you can listen/hear/smell for signs of stress on the woofer. The woofer only does what you tell it to, so if it blows its all about wrong settings by the user (so be smart).

It is pretty difficult to blow a BTL... it is not uncommon for me to hear from customers running SAZ-3000s and 3500Ds on their BTLs without tearing them up.

I build a box that is 3.0cuft @ 32Hz for the BTL, then a 2500RMS amplifier would actually be a good match?

I ran the BTL in 3 ft tuned to 34 Hz. Sounded awesome.

I know a guy that is running a HiFonics Sampson per BTL on a 16 volt system. He is putting about 11-12k per sub.

just like we know thorshammer has ran a stetsom 14k2d on a single DC level5...

I'm sayin subs can take a LOT MORE power than rated because it's based upon the install and how the amp is actually setup.

The less you clip your signal, the more power in a short time period the sub can handle. You also must be able to control movement. Once you master those 2 things down, then a sub can handle an enormous amount of power.

For long term use, i don't see the practical use as it would hurt too much to keep it that loud.

I wired a 3,000w amp up to an AQ HDC3 and burped it a couple times and the dustcap was still cold.. not even luke warm.

I run 1750w per DC Level4(not XLs) in driveby usage FULLY CLIPPED for a 30 sec run and they take approximately 42seconds before they will start heating up. Luckily 30sc is all i need to get my score down. IF it were clip free, it be a lot more power.

Snoopdan ran 5,000w to each RE SX sub for burps and 2,500w for longterm daily use. They'd have to get reconed every several months though... intentionally though, not by accidental abuse.

Ben Hemp has ran a pair of strapped sundowns at 1 ohm to a Mach5 SPL 12 without problems and one of my AQ HDC3s strapped at 4ohm.

my new design will consist of over 10,000w per driver as long as i stick to my plans for next year and i have no worries about failure because it's all in the control and design.

Power ratings are based on a combination of things, thermal and mechanical. They work with each other. You can control them if u know what you are doing but if it fails... u don't know what you are doing.

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