get ready to be idleing at 15.3v

get ready to be idleing at 15.3v

I can't wait!!!! this thing is a beast!!!!

Everybody has me wanting to get a DC Power Alternator

Everybody has me wanting to get a DC Power Alternator

I am definitely happy with the build quality. I will let you know everything else I think about the alternator once installed.

Man, after having ONLY front speakers for a month now has been EPIC!!! Words can't describe how easy it is to tune the sound stage now. Talk about destuctive distortion, the guy that started putting rear speakers in sedans needs KICKED IN THE BALLS. anyways still waiting on the Aura's to show up in my mail box.

That alt is pure sex!

The Alternator is installed!!!!! I will be posting pics and my first impressions later today.

Hurry up and finish this thing. I wanna see this one done.

I am sure it will be sweet.

Heres some pics of the DC Power alternator getting installed. I fuct up and erased the before pics, but still got everything else.

Damn! Looks like it went in flawlessly!

Well, I got to listen for about 20 minutes on the way to work, and voltage was good. The voltage is at 14.55 at idle and stays right there until a heavy load is applied. As far as testing I always use the same CDs I have used for 10+ years. The first test was Tool Undertow, I couldn't really get the voltage to budge. So on to some Too Short Cocktails, The voltage went balistic as usaul BUT NEVER DROPPED below 13.5. When Bumpin' the Too Short the voltage bounces like crazy between 15 and 13.5 but stays up there!!!!! the old alternator would of dropped to 12.5 instantly and struggled to hold that.

The only thing I wonder about is after I remove the load and get off the interstate my voltage drops to 12.5 so basicly the alternator shuts off and I am seeing battery voltage????? My original alternator ALSO shut off in the same way when I removed the load and got off the interstate????? Does ANYONE have any ideas why this happens?????Why would the alternator shut off?????

Damn! Looks like it went in flawlessly!

FUUUUCK, kind of, I guess. The bolt they sent was the wrong thread pitch and alittle short. I figured this out the hard way, I started the bolt and ripped about 1/4 inch of threads first.I was lucky I had my 77' ford truck to run to the hardware store with.

I got a longer bolt with the right thread and a tap to clean up the threads because it was in the aluminum engine block, SO I only got one more chance.

Well then everything went pretty smooth after that and everything fit correctly. also the belt they sent was the wrong one SO thank god the old one worked. I will get a new belt soon though.

Damn! Looks like it went in flawlessly!

FUUUUCK, kind of, I guess. The bolt they sent was the wrong thread pitch and alittle short. I figured this out the hard way, I started the bolt and ripped about 1/4 inch of threads first.I was lucky I had my 77' ford truck to run to the hardware store with.

I got a longer bolt with the right thread and a tap to clean up the threads because it was in the aluminum engine block, SO I only got one more chance.

Well then everything went pretty smooth after that and everything fit correctly. also the belt they sent was the wrong one SO thank god the old one worked. I will get a new belt soon though.

yeah mine was kind of difficult to get in, the belt didnt fit either on mine...also had to trim off some of the plastic casing around it....as for your alternator shutting off thats really odd, not sure what would be triggering that

Damn! Looks like it went in flawlessly!

FUUUUCK, kind of, I guess. The bolt they sent was the wrong thread pitch and alittle short. I figured this out the hard way, I started the bolt and ripped about 1/4 inch of threads first.I was lucky I had my 77' ford truck to run to the hardware store with.

I got a longer bolt with the right thread and a tap to clean up the threads because it was in the aluminum engine block, SO I only got one more chance.

Well then everything went pretty smooth after that and everything fit correctly. also the belt they sent was the wrong one SO thank god the old one worked. I will get a new belt soon though.

yeah mine was kind of difficult to get in, the belt didnt fit either on mine...also had to trim off some of the plastic casing around it....as for your alternator shutting off thats really odd, not sure what would be triggering that

yeah the alternator fit like a glove other than the bolt and belt.

I am baffled about the alt shutting off like the old one, that was half the reason for the HO. I just though the old one was overheating????? like I said I only pushed the new one for 15-20 minutes tops on the way here and the voltage still dropped to 12.5 when I got off the interstate???? Once I shut the car off and turn it back on the voltage goes back to 14.55. Who knows, I wouldn't even notice if I wasn't glued to the voltage meter.

I think I understand why the alternator keeps shutting off. I think the ECM has a amplimeter in it that turns off the exciter wire when the ECM see's to many amps. I think the reason this occurs has more to do with the dual batterys. I think when I take the load away, the batterys have more amps than the ECM needs/wants and the failsafe in the ECM turns off the alternator. This is the reason both alternators had the same problem, as the car its self is telling them to shut off.

This is ALL a GUESS, but here is my reasoning. I can reproduce the same effect EVERYDAY at the same place, These places are after I sit idling for a minute and then raise the RPM's without a stereo load. Without the stereo load I think the dual XS Power Batterys have more amps than the car needs/wants and the ECM turns off the Exciter/on wire to the alternator until the batterys level out with the amplimeters request.

Like I said this is a guess, so I will call my Honda mechanic and run my thoughs by them. I know I can by-pass the ECM and have a key on wire excite the alternator, BUT don't know if this will start frying things in the cars electrical. Or figure out a way to LIMIT/isolate the amperage to the cars little 8ga wire that feed the ECM. Or maybe they can reprogram the ECM if I am lucky.

PLEASE LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHT'S or if you think I am on the right track?

Temporarily disconnect the 2nd battery to test the theory.

Edited April 6, 201015 yr by John Holmes

Temporarily disconnect the 2nd battery to test the theory.

good call John, I will test this.

Thanks

Jared

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Honda Electronic Load Detection system! This post basically sums it up 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums - View Single Post - Voltage Drop Question

If these cars were offered in Japan, we could simply swap to a JDM ECU. What I've thought about so far are a couple things:

-(Kind of confirmed from another 6GA member) Drive with your headlights on

-(Unconfirmed as of right now) Add in the Canadian OEM DRL module so there is a constant load

-(Unconfirmed) Convert to OBDI with a P28 or P13 ECU

-(Undone as far as I'm aware) Add some kind of resistor network to the ECU to fool it

-EDIT: (Would have to ask a tuner) Remove ECU and move to a standalone like AEM EMS

So options are slim as of right now. Try your headlights for now, I guess. To fix the ELD issue, the load/fix will NEED to be recognized by the ECU. Pulling power off the battery using a relay harness or amp power wire doesn't work...hence the ELD kicking in.

Edit: Had the ECU numbers backwards. Fixored.

Edited April 6, 201015 yr by ryan s

Welcome to the wonderful world of the Honda Electronic Load Detection system! This post basically sums it up 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums - View Single Post - Voltage Drop Question

If these cars were offered in Japan, we could simply swap to a JDM ECU. What I've thought about so far are a couple things:

-(Kind of confirmed from another 6GA member) Drive with your headlights on

-(Unconfirmed as of right now) Add in the Canadian OEM DRL module so there is a constant load

-(Unconfirmed) Convert to OBDI with a P23 or P18 ECU

-(Undone as far as I'm aware) Add some kind of resistor network to the ECU to fool it

So options are slim as of right now. Try your headlights for now, I guess. To fix the ELD issue, the load/fix will NEED to be recognized by the ECU. Pulling power off the battery using a relay harness or amp power wire doesn't work...hence the ELD kicking in.

Thanks for the info Ryan. I will definetly sign up over on the 6th gen forum and start reading.

Thanks

Jared

I did the "turning the headlights on" and this infact confirms the load theory.

I am HAPPY to know nothing is wrong with anything. If the ECU only drops the voltage to 12.5 when theres NO LOAD than I am GOOD, As the voltage NEVER drops when NEEDED!!!!!Problem solved.

Ok, that's 2 confirmations! I can't take credit for that idea (user AccordFlex suggested it) but good to see it works

Here is the thread on 6GA if you get around to registering and posting...I'll be putting a post in there right now Voltage Drop Question - 6th Gen Accord DIY and Performance forums

I just got my Aura's in the mail!!!!!! these drivers are SEXY SEXY!!!!! pictures later.

NO!!! pictures now, haha

Ahhh!!!finally, my mid-basses showed up from Canada!!! These are some beautiful drivers. I couldn't of done it without M5, even though I had to follow the pr*ck around to get it out of him, hehe. THANK YOU M5, for your help.

Anyways heres some pics!!!

What is better than one bad ass driver?????

TWO.

Plus I got some steel grill's to keep them safe.

they fit perfect.

now some shots of the SWEET frame, man this driver is SEXY!!!!

I can't wait to start the door pods, I already have the MDF, a router, and the fiberglass. I didn't want to start until I had the mid-basses in hand, well they are in my hand!!!!!

I worked on the dash pods a little today, but it was SOOO fuckin' cold, I didn't get far. I will post pics as soon as I start building. Hopefully tomarrow?

Those are some sexy mofo's