Before hand i had a 12 Infinity Perfect running off of a JL Audio 250/1, then upgraded to an RL-P Dual 2 ohm with a Nine.1 as the amp. Box is a subzone prefab 1.03 cu ft sealed box before driver displacement. The sound quality is phenomal, but the output so far is a complete joke. It has no more SPL than my Perfect did, and if i attempt to turn the HU volume or gain up, the sub begins to clip and bottom out. It also moves an incredible amount, and doesn't seem to be putting out output anywhere close to where it should be by the looks of how much it is moving. Are my problems all in my box, or does it sound like i have something else going on? We used a Volt-meter and the sub is indeed wired correctly at 1ohm, and the amp is measuring 12.8 volts, so i dunno what the problem is? Sub is getting 1200 rms from that amp. I know a good box is important for perfomance maximizing, but i never would have guessed that a small box would make a high output sub sound like a puny baby sub like my old infinity. What is the problem here people? Is it all my box or do i have some other problem?

humm this is very strange, Mike will help you out for sure, he really wants his customers to be happy,

I might guess the box to be a little small but it should not have that much effect

humm this is very strange, Mike will help you out for sure, he really wants his customers to be happy,

I might guess the box to be a little small but it should not have that much effect

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I already spoke to Mike Via email, and he told me it sounds like the box, but honestly if he would hear it in person, I think he would either tell me i had too high expectations for SPL for that sub, or that the box isn't causing the problem. Also, i noticed that whoever wired my Power wire has it wired to the Auxillary Fuse Box and not my Battery (I have a Nine.1 and NIne.2 in my car). Even though the amp is still measuring the correct voltage, could that be causing the problem?

ahhh, yes!

Wire it to the battery! Not getting nearly enough current supply to the amps, lucky they haven't fried Correct voltage should be in the 13.5-14.4V range as well.

As well... SPL and sealed aren't usually used together. If you want output as well as a good sound... ported tuned low (28-34Hz).

ahhh, yes!

Wire it to the battery! Not getting nearly enough current supply to the amps, lucky they haven't fried 

As well... SPL and sealed aren't usually used together. If you want output as well as a good sound... ported tuned low (28-34Hz).

need direct currnet, thats a good amp and the sub will shine once you get everything set up, have you thought about a custom made box?

ahhh, yes!

Wire it to the battery! Not getting nearly enough current supply to the amps, lucky they haven't fried

I am just saying that it is one way to get more output from your sub

I am just saying that it is one way to get more output from your sub

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Ok i see. Do you think rewiring it to my battery will make a noticeable change? I ran my Perfect and JL Audio 250/1 amp off the fuse box and it sounded fine, but also that was a 250 watt amp, this is a 1200 watt one.

One of the shops i brought it too also told me that moving it to the battery won't do anything, becuase if the amp wasn't getting enough current from the Fuse Box, the protect light would be on (which its not). What do you guys think about that?

I think they are idiots.

Direct to the battery...

I think they are idiots.

Direct to the battery...

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tommorow me and my friend are gonna rewire the power to the battery. Im really hoping that fixes the lack of output problems, otherwise that is really gonna suck.

It's not. I don't care what driver you have, a one cubic foot enclosure is simply not going to be an output monster. It CAN sound great and perform well, but output is going to be choked no matter the driver. This is a case of non-optimal application. Put a XXX12 in there, Magnum, IDMAX, 12W7, anything. They will potentially all sound different, but there's not going to be much, if any, noticeable output difference between them.

Also, just because that amp says it puts out 1200 watts, doesn't mean it is. There are many many variables which contribute to the ACTUAL power output of the amplifier and you can find all the answers on this board.

It's not.  I don't care what driver you have, a one cubic foot enclosure is simply not going to be an output monster.  It CAN sound great and perform well, but output is going to be choked no matter the driver.  This is a case of non-optimal application.  Put a XXX12 in there, Magnum, IDMAX, 12W7, anything.  They will potentially all sound different, but there's not going to be much, if any, noticeable output difference between them. 

Also, just because that amp says it puts out 1200 watts, doesn't mean it is.  There are many many variables which contribute to the ACTUAL power output of the amplifier and you can find all the answers on this board.

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x2 and its actually in about .85cuft, which is nasty small. Let that woofer breathe some more!

Do you guys think I even bought the right subwoofer for my application? I wanted a sub that would take 1200 watts rms all day and be fine. Did i make a wrong choice going with an RL-P?

1. rewire to the battery

that run to the remote positive post is like 8ga, not nearly enough for any high power system

2. build a larger sealed box or a properly designed ported box

the enclosure makes an unbelievably huge difference in the way a sub sounds

1. rewire to the battery

that run to the remote positive post is like 8ga, not nearly enough for any high power system

2. build a larger sealed box or a properly designed ported box

the enclosure makes an unbelievably huge difference in the way a sub sounds

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ok. My other question, and more importantly, should stick with this sub, or will it be on the brink of blowing out all the time with the amount of power i am sending it? Would i be better off waiting for the LMT or getting a XXX or something with 1200 watts?

Do you guys think I even bought the right subwoofer for my application? I wanted a sub that would take 1200 watts rms all day and be fine.  Did i make a wrong choice going with an RL-P?

nope, you made a great choice

trust me - your not getting 1200 watts out of that amp

impedence rise is a female dog

1. rewire to the battery

that run to the remote positive post is like 8ga, not nearly enough for any high power system

2. build a larger sealed box or a properly designed ported box

the enclosure makes an unbelievably huge difference in the way a sub sounds

ok. My other question, and more importantly, should stick with this sub, or will it be on the brink of blowing out all the time with the amount of power i am sending it? Would i be better off waiting for the LMT or getting a XXX or something with 1200 watts?

nope you are fine, be smart with the gains, there are a good amount of people on here pushing 1000-1200 watts

I got mine in a 1.25 because i wasn't building for loud, but rather SQ. If you are seeking full potential on the output, go ported. I am feeding mine with a Orion 1200D and am upgrading the alternator next week because my charging seeking is under great duress during peaks in outputs. This sub will take the 1200 no sweat, ( on the impedence rise) but my first suggestion would be going straight off the battery so your amp can take clean big bites of amperage, my second would be, go with a bigger ported box and you will never ask again, did I make the right choice.

I got mine in a 1.25 because i wasn't building for loud, but rather SQ.  If you are seeking full potential on the output, go ported.  I am feeding mine with a Orion 1200D and am upgrading the alternator next week because my charging seeking is under great duress during peaks in outputs. This sub will take the 1200 no sweat, (   on the impedence rise) but my first suggestion would be going straight off the battery so your amp can take clean big bites of amperage, my second would be, go with a bigger ported box and you will never ask again, did I make the right choice.

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how big? I was told either 1.5 or 2.0 at 34 hz. I still wanna retain a certain amount of sound quality for the rock i listen to, but i want mostly to maximize SPL out of this sub. ALso, who on this forum makes good affordable ported boxes? I was told on another board that someone here makes nice boxes.

I got mine in a 1.25 because i wasn't building for loud, but rather SQ.  If you are seeking full potential on the output, go ported.  I am feeding mine with a Orion 1200D and am upgrading the alternator next week because my charging seeking is under great duress during peaks in outputs. This sub will take the 1200 no sweat, (   on the impedence rise) but my first suggestion would be going straight off the battery so your amp can take clean big bites of amperage, my second would be, go with a bigger ported box and you will never ask again, did I make the right choice.

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how big? I was told either 1.5 or 2.0 at 34 hz. I still wanna retain a certain amount of sound quality for the rock i listen to, but i want mostly to maximize SPL out of this sub. ALso, who on this forum makes good affordable ported boxes? I was told on another board that someone here makes nice boxes.

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I have heard great things about the 2.0 tuned to the low 30's, high 20's. I had Mrray build my box, excellent job, reasonable price, easy to work with. There are others on here that do great work, depends on where you are located to keep shipping down.

if any of your friends have a system, see if u can drop your rl-p into one of there boxes(if they have the same size sub), and see how it sounds. yes the box is just as important as the sub.

infact the rl-p makes almost 0 sound outside of a box. that should give u an idea how important the right enclosure is.

My bro's 12's are in 1.1 sealed each, not after displacement.

They get loud, but im quite shure if he ported them they would POUND

Oh, and I forgot to mention another important thing. When i crank up the volume on my HU, the sub begins to bottom out and clip very loudly (so loudly i can hear it over the bass and the speakers). What is up with that? I tried lowering the gain a bit, but all that does is kill the bass.