Posted July 23, 200520 yr i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?
July 23, 200520 yr big sealed box = lots of low bass but less power handling, sounds like what you want! i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?<{POST_SNAPBACK}>
July 23, 200520 yr build the box big and then you can add stuff to it to make it smaller if you want to change the way it performs?
July 23, 200520 yr Author does that mean i'd be able to reach full excursion with less power? i think even all the way up my nine.1 will only give me 650 or 700 watts a piece.
July 27, 200520 yr Author well the box is almost finished. once i started building it, i ended up having to make it smaller and smaller to get it to fit just right in the well of my car. right now im looking at 1.22 feet per sub, net. i think i could maybe squeeze 1.3 each out of it, without having to buy more wood, but it'll be more of a pita. do you think i'd even notice the difference in 8 hundreds of a foot, or should i just finish it at 1.22, throw in some polyfill and call it a day?
July 27, 200520 yr the 1.22 net (if after driver displacement) would be plenty IMO...and if u don't like it, u can always add the polyfill later..wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
July 27, 200520 yr Author you serious? never seen a setup like that. what sort of sound would that give me, or what sort of sound would i get from inverting both?
July 27, 200520 yr it should sound exactly the same but the thing is, you'll get that air space that the driver was previously occupying
July 27, 200520 yr Author do i need to take off the rubber surround that goes around the screwholes and flip it the other way if im going to invert them? i notice there are sort of lightning strike things on the outside of this rubber piece, looks like it sticks out enough it would let air by.
July 27, 200520 yr You don't have to take the gasket off. You can flip it around, or leave it how it is.
July 27, 200520 yr I would agree that you probably don't have to flip it around, but it wouldn't hurt. The gasket is indeed a bit different than the ones we originally used, as it has a beveled design integrated into the front face. So long as you do a good job screwin' the thing in it should compress fine, but for piece of mind you may as well flip it (and then you'll have the design on the visual portion of your product )
July 27, 200520 yr Author my car is fairly quick, runs a mid 12 second quarter mile, hits 60 in about 4 and a half seconds, and runs low 11's if i spray it... do i need to worry about the screws tearing out of the mdf having it inverted? the acceleration can be a bit violent, and i like getting after it. what do you all think?
July 27, 200520 yr my car is fairly quick, runs a mid 12 second quarter mile, hits 60 in about 4 and a half seconds, and runs low 11's if i spray it... do i need to worry about the screws tearing out of the mdf having it inverted? the acceleration can be a bit violent, and i like getting after it. what do you all think?<{POST_SNAPBACK}>i defy anyone to rip 8 good screws out that easily!maybe if you were under 10?
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