Hooking my brother up with my 15" Fi Q (basic) and its being powered by a RD 1000.1D doing 1000 at 1 ohm. Looking to get an amp kit for him and I can't remember whether or not to use 4 gauge power wire or higher? Also, the amp has 30Ax3 fuses for a total of 90 amps so I'm assuming I need a 90 amp fuse for the power cable? Reason I'm asking is because the knukonceptz kit I was looking at comes with a 120 amp fuse. Just a few simple questions.

If it were me, I'd use 2 gauge or even 1/0. Fuse can be any size up to the current carrying capacity of the wire. If you got 4 gauge or bigger, either 90 or 120 would be fine.

I noticed in my 2006 Ford F-150 STX that without Big 3 and what I'm assuming was 4 gauge power wire, my lights would dim outside and inside a bit. Worked fine otherwirse and yes that's with the same sub/amp.

How much of an effect would a big 3 and 0 gauge power wire have on the output of the amp? Never measured in my previous setup but hypothetically speaking what could be a possible gain in power? If for 1000 watts it wouldn't be very noticeable I'd prefer to just do it the easy way, unless of course you think it would make a considerable difference.

I noticed in my 2006 Ford F-150 STX that without Big 3 and what I'm assuming was 4 gauge power wire, my lights would dim outside and inside a bit. Worked fine otherwirse and yes that's with the same sub/amp.

How much of an effect would a big 3 and 0 gauge power wire have on the output of the amp? Never measured in my previous setup but hypothetically speaking what could be a possible gain in power? If for 1000 watts it wouldn't be very noticeable I'd prefer to just do it the easy way, unless of course you think it would make a considerable difference.

You should notice the difference from that large of a jump. Its just how dramatic of an effect you are expecting. Its nothing like installing a h/o alty. It shouldnt be too large.

I noticed in my 2006 Ford F-150 STX that without Big 3 and what I'm assuming was 4 gauge power wire, my lights would dim outside and inside a bit. Worked fine otherwirse and yes that's with the same sub/amp.

How much of an effect would a big 3 and 0 gauge power wire have on the output of the amp? Never measured in my previous setup but hypothetically speaking what could be a possible gain in power? If for 1000 watts it wouldn't be very noticeable I'd prefer to just do it the easy way, unless of course you think it would make a considerable difference.

You should notice the difference from that large of a jump. Its just how dramatic of an effect you are expecting. Its nothing like installing a h/o alty. It shouldnt be too large.

I see. And I'm smart enough to know it's not going to do miracles but if it would really be worth it I suppose I'll go ahead and give that amp what it needed in the first place.

If it wasnt worth it, people would not be suggesting you do the big 3 first.

It's cheap, easy, and worth it.

If it wasnt worth it, people would not be suggesting you do the big 3 first.

It's cheap, easy, and worth it.

I understand how important it is. That's why I'm doing it for my own 2500 watt setup. Was just wondering whether or not it would make a difference for only a 1000 watts.

hell the big 3 make a difference with no car audio! it helps your car to start up on those cold winter days! you know how much your car needs current wise to start engine? do you know how much startup current is required? do you know why batteries have a short circuit rating of 5000 amps? lol!

when it comes to beefing it all up it ALL helps!

I second that, the point of upgrading your electrical extends beyond just getting more power out of your amplifier, it protects your car from the extra strain you are putting on the electrical system. Big three and 4 gauge should be fine for his, but 0 gauge, big three, and most likely a secondary or stronger starting battery is a necessity for your system if you are pulling that amount of current to produce 2500 watts.

Edited April 20, 201015 yr by NCSU ECE

Chances are you're getting full power out of that amp just fine, it's just hogging a tad more current to do it since the voltage drops. The only thing you're likely to notice with big 3 upgraded is less dimming.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

Interesting. To be honest I realized on how much of a budget my brother is and well, for what 1/0 gauge costs he just doesn't have even that little bit of extra money (still in highschool). That being the case I think I'm going to just hook him up with a nice 4 gauge kit considering what he's getting is already going to be far more than he imagined....

Btw I'm referring to my brothers setup, NCSU, which will be the Q with 1000 watts. The 2500 is going to my Treo SSX and I'm definately upgrading big 3 for that

Also I'm ganna have some left over 8 gauge speaker wire. I'm pretty sure too big of speaker wire isn't a bad thing but just to make sure I figured I'd ask and make sure in case I need to go ahead and order some 12 gauge wire.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

DImming issues are the voltage drop. The alternator just charges the battery. I know what you meant but clarifying. And even if it is overkill to do 1/0 gauge for big three, although I suggested 4, it couldn't do anything but help, no matter how marginally small the difference is going be. I agree with the 80 amp fuse if you can't find the 90, or even 100, only if you could maintain your voltage and don't push that amp all the way (not safe or recommended though, just saying it is possible).

Interesting. To be honest I realized on how much of a budget my brother is and well, for what 1/0 gauge costs he just doesn't have even that little bit of extra money (still in highschool). That being the case I think I'm going to just hook him up with a nice 4 gauge kit considering what he's getting is already going to be far more than he imagined....

Go to your local welding supply store and pic up some 1/0 welding cable. She'll do ya real nice for not too much money, and you'll never

what you might get besides, I got free terminals! lol Seriously though, the extra 30ish bucks will be worth your time, my voltage in my car

went from 12.5 to 14.3 after I did the big 3, and I'm really glad I did; it's a must.

I would recommend going with 1/0 for future upgrades!

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire?

I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire?

I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator.

I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha.

But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all.

Interesting. To be honest I realized on how much of a budget my brother is and well, for what 1/0 gauge costs he just doesn't have even that little bit of extra money (still in highschool). That being the case I think I'm going to just hook him up with a nice 4 gauge kit considering what he's getting is already going to be far more than he imagined....

Go to your local welding supply store and pic up some 1/0 welding cable. She'll do ya real nice for not too much money, and you'll never

what you might get besides, I got free terminals! lol Seriously though, the extra 30ish bucks will be worth your time, my voltage in my car

went from 12.5 to 14.3 after I did the big 3, and I'm really glad I did; it's a must.

Good post. I tried to add seperate items for a budget 4 gauge setup, and realized either way I'm spending over $40. So, I might as well do 1/0 gauge.

Thanks for all the input everyone. Going with 1/0 gauge! And 8 gauge speaker wire since I probably didn't order enough for my setup so I'm just ganna get another 15 feet or so.

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire?

I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator.

I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha.

But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all.

Just curious about the wire since my Knu speaker wire from that kit looks like it's starting to corrode inside but the power/ground wires still look good.

It's crazy to think about how little power is really used when you get into higher frequencies...fractions of a watt...

OP: 4ga, 80A fuse should be sufficient. Bigger fuse if/when you add another amp.

Everyone else: I gotta disagree with the whole big 3 thing. I posted in another thread, but 1/0 is way overkill for stock charging systems. There's no point of having a 350A-max wire when the alternator only puts out 80A. Go measure a stock ground wire with your multimeter...

People have dimming issues due to exceeding the alternator's current maximum and then dipping into the battery. Wire and only wire ain't going to fix that.

I'm not going to disagree with you, wire does not make power. However i did notice slightly less dimming in my previous car when I upgraded my 4 gauge power wire to 1/0 and added just a second ground from battery to chassis with 4 gauge. I had a 1000 watt sub amp and a ~200 watt amp for my interior speakers, with a 105 amp alternator. That is why I mentioned in my previous post that the only thing it may do is reduce dimming by a small amount, it's not going to help the amp make more power.

What were the fuse ratings on the amps? Also, what wire?

I've had the same copper 4ga kit since high school (Knu...about 8 old now) and my stereo has ranged from 400w to 520w. When I get to swapping my other amps, it'll be 900w or so...but...my fuses will only total about 95A on a stock 80A alternator.

I don't really remember the amps' fuse ratings, it was about 4 years ago and I've parted with the amps since. I think maybe 100 amps on the sub amp and maybe 40 on the smaller amp (was a 2 channel but I was running it at 4 ohm stereo so not at full capability). I believe I had/still have a 100 amp fuse under the hood which has never blown. The wire I also don't remember. Just normal 4 gauge wire that I got from the local stereo shop. The 1/0 was off of partsepxress I believe, also not sure on what exactly since I installed it years ago and have since forgotten about it. When wire works, why think about it and remember all the specs? Ha.

But for a time I had three amps in there, probably totalling 160 amps worth of fusing. However, again, only the sub amp was actually at its lowest rated impedance and the 100 amp fuse under the hood never blew. Just goes to show you how hard it is to actaully use amps to their full potential to blow a fuse. I was a bit larger basshead back then so I had it cranked a lot more often. That same 100 amp fuse is now under my hood with my Sundown SAE1200v2 and Kenwood 4 channel, which I believe also add up to about 160 amps worth of fusing. But now I have a 135 amp alt and no dimming occurs at all.

Just curious about the wire since my Knu speaker wire from that kit looks like it's starting to corrode inside but the power/ground wires still look good.

It's crazy to think about how little power is really used when you get into higher frequencies...fractions of a watt...

Yeah the exposed power wire in the ring terminal at the battery was corroded when I switched the setup into my new vehicle, but I just cut it off and put a new terminal on newly exposed wire. The wire still inside the insulation looked good as new.

DPAW, there is absolutely no reason to use 8 gauge wire as speaker wire. That stuff is like $2/ft, and you have to buy twice as much since you have to use individual runs for + and -. 10 or 12 gauge speaker wire works perfectly fine and it's like $1/foot for two wires connected together. Save yourself $20 and get regular speaker wire. I guarantee there will be no difference.

And what amp/subs have terminals that would accept 8ga wire anyway? lol

And what amp/subs have terminals that would accept 8ga wire anyway? lol

My treo ssx? Know for sure it does.

KU40 thanks man. Definately pricey stuff. Only reason I wanted 8 gauge was for my SSX taking 2500 watts...figured I'd go heavy since that's 2 and a half times more power I've ever ran. As for my brothers Q I'm lending him I'll go with some 12 gauge and call it a day though. Thanks again.