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Posted

Well my RL-i 10's arrived yesterday, and I want to get them in a box asap. No literature was provided with them, but not a big deal. I just need to know the displacement of these subs so I can figure my overall box size. I spoke with Mike via email and he recommended a .6 cu ft per sub sealed box. I'll be running 425w RMS to each, and they'll be down-fired under my rear bench of my crew cab truck.

One thing I noticed was that the mounting surface is a bit different from what I'm used to. The mounting holes are covered with a rubber "ring." The holes through this ring appear to be the same diameter as the holes through the mounting surface of the basket. So my question is; how exactly should these be properly mounted? Do I run a bolt and washer through with the washer on top of the rubber ring, compressing everything below it, or do I somehow run the bolt/waser below the top side of this ring and rest the washer on the actual basket? i hope that makes sense.

Thanks in advance.

1.http://www.soundsplinter.com/rli_series/rli_10_inch_DIY_car_and_home_subwoofer_driver_information.html

2. The gasket is removable. What you will need to do ti pull up on the inside of it and pull back to remove it. Then you can poke holes in the surround because it partially covers the mounting holes.

Then replace the gasket.

The screw/bolt should sit on the subs basket and not the gasket.

  • Author

Thanks for the insight, I figured that was the proper procedure. However, I could seem to find the basket displacement, maybe I'm just not looking in the right place.

Thanks again,

Sammy

I didnt find it either.

The basket/magnet very close to the RE SE 10 which lists displacement of .14ft^3

  • Author

Nevermind, I found what I was looking for in an old email from Mike. He stated that the driver displacement is .1 cu ft.

Thanks again.

  • Admin
Nevermind, I found what I was looking for in an old email from Mike.  He stated that the driver displacement is .1 cu ft.

Thanks again.

post pix when you work on the box

  • Admin
Nevermind, I found what I was looking for in an old email from Mike.  He stated that the driver displacement is .1 cu ft.

Thanks again.

post pix when you work on the box

Will do, I'm keeping pretty good record of everything I do on the truck.

:rockwoot::rockwoot::rockwoot:

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

Quick question guys. I'm just now getting to building a box. I know, I know, it took me forever to start. But, do the rubber covers on the magnets serve any purpose other than looks? My enclosure is an odd shape so that it'll fit in my truck, and removing the rubber covers gives me a little more room to work with. Let me know. Thanks.

  • Author
Remove it, it will have no effect on the performance of the driver.  It is primarily a cosmetic piece.

Thanks for the quick reply Mike. Another question; I'm having a hard time getting the amount of volume I had originally planned for, things are tighter than they originally appeared. So what is a good range of volume for these to operate at? For what it's worth I can supply up to 425w rms to each.

I would try to keep sealed box volume above 0.4 (and up to 0.75) cu ft/driver.

Try adding up to 1 lb polyfill stuffing as well.

  • Author
I would try to keep sealed box volume above 0.4 (and up to 0.75) cu ft/driver. 

Try adding up to 1 lb polyfill stuffing as well.

Thanks Mike. I did some reworking to try and gain some more space. If my calculations are correct, I can get about .74 ft^3 per sub before basket displacement. I believe you said the RLi-10 has a volume around .1 ft^3, so giving me .64 ft^3. How do you think that will work with 425 w rms? Should I still plan on adding polyfill?

Also, I've never used polyfill before, but I did use about 1" of fiberglass insulation on my last box. I assume polyfill is just polyester pillow stuffing, how should it be installed? I mean is it just stuffed in there or is there a method?

Thanks in advance.

If your target is .60 cuft you won't need stuffing since it makes the box "feel" larger to the sub. If it were smaller, say .55 then it would help; however you may prefer the sound with the stuffing or without. If you wanted to test it both ways, build the box at .64 as you said and then put something in like a 2x4 to compensate to make it .55 or .5 and add fill. For subs, personally I just like to hit my target volume as close as possible and forego the stuffing.

  • Author
If your target is .60 cuft you won't need stuffing since it makes the box "feel" larger to the sub.  If it were smaller, say .55 then it would help; however you may prefer the sound with the stuffing or without.  If you wanted to test it both ways, build the box at .64 as you said and then put something in like a 2x4 to compensate to make it .55 or .5 and add fill.  For subs, personally I just like to hit my target volume as close as possible and forego the stuffing.

Well the original target was .7 ft^3, so that's why I was concerned. It'll probably end up being around .60 since I'm going to have to flush mount the subs. Man this box is a female dog. I'm jealous of you SUV and car guys, there's just no room under my back seat.

Check for photos:

http://www.titantalk.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=508

IIRC 1.25 lb/cu ft of fiberglass will increase the effective volume by about 25%, and decrease Qts, so you can really save some space this way.

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